1. Sources of Information
- Extension Bulletins
- Gardening Books (usually not written for our area)
- Seed Catalogs (nice pictures but be wary of claims made)2. Selecting a Site
- View
a. from home
b. from inside yard
c. from outside the yard
3. Characteristics of Site
- Light received each day
a. Full sun (8 hours or more)
b. Partial sun (5-7 hours of direct sun)
c. Partial shade (dappled sunlight)
d. Shade (generally not good for blooming
plants)
- Loose, fertile, well
drained soil
- Availability of Water
- Wind
a. "open" area
b. protected area
- Presence of tree and shrub
roots
4. Planning Guidelines (Flower Bed
Planning)
5. Site Preparation
- New Site
a. Remove sod or kill grass with a
herbicide
b. Control weeds especially perennials
(quackgrass & thistles)
- Soil Preparation
a. Add organic matter, well rotted manure
or compost (no sand)
- 4 bushels of compost per
100 sq. ft. of garden area
b. Raised beds
- earlier warm up in the
spring and quicker to dry out
- good in areas under trees
etc. where shallow roots would compete
c. Containers can be used on decks,
patios or in other areas
d. Test soil if desired
- Normal fertilizer
recommendation without testing
2 lbs. 5-10-5 per 100 sq. ft. of garden area
5 lbs. well rotted manure per 100 sq. ft.
Don't add lime
Don't use a "Weed & Feed" fertilizer in
the garden
e. Roto-till or spade to the depth of
4-6"
f. Working wet, clay soil will give you
brick-hard chunks
6. Planting
- Purchase Plants
a. more expensive but are ready to plant;
can see what your getting
b. pinch off flowers and buds at
planting; will establish better.
- Seed indoors or directly
into garden.
a. easy ones to try include: geraniums,
petunias & marigolds
b. starting seeds
- When
to start (check seed packet or reference material)
- Use sterile soil mix
to help prevent damping off
- Light or dark for
germination
- Cover with plastic
film to hold moisture and heat
- After germination,
remove plastic and provide good light
- Artificial light vs.
natural light
- Don't overwater
c. Transplanting into the garden
- Hardening off plants
- Plant into garden
about Memorial Day
- Best in late
afternoon, or on cloudy days with little wind
- Disturb roots as
little as possible
- Don't bury leaves;
remove flowers and buds
- Starter Fertilizer
d. Planting seed into garden
- Check seed packet or reference material for date
- Depth of planting (on
heavy, clay soil; plant shallow)
7. Maintaining the Garden
- Watering
a. Important after planting & when
flower buds are forming
b. Don't over water; water deeply to
encourage a deep root system
c. Need 1-1½" per week during dry
periods (65-130 gal. per 100 sq. ft.)
d. Drip Irrigation and Soakers vs.
Overhead Sprinklers
-Save water
-Less water on the
leaves; reduces chances of a foliar disease
-Foliage should never
remain wet overnight
- Fertilizing
a. For best bloom use fertilizers low in
nitrogen and potassium
- higher in phosphorous
e.g. (10-20-10)
b. Can be applied to the foliage or
watered into the root area
- Mulches
a. A 2-4" layer should be adequate
b. Conserve soil moisture, keep soil
cooler, and reduce water needs
c. Blocks sun from germinating weed seeds
d. Helps reduce soil compaction
e. Includes: chopped leaves, peat moss,
grass clippings, wood chips,
- fabric,
compost, and decorative rocks
f. Slugs love mulch
- Weeding
a. Mulch will help control weeds
b. Remove weeds when small
c. Weed in the heat of the day (pick up
& dispose of purslane)
d. Don't water on the same day as you
weed
e. Deep hoeing can damage plant roots and
expose more weed seeds
f. Don't use herbicides in the home
garden
- may spot treat
"hard to control weeds" with Round-up.
- Be careful, Round-up
kills everything it touches
- Deadheading
a. Remove spent blooms to improve
appearance and to extend bloom
- Staking
a. Often done for flowers with heavy
flower heads (Lisianthus)
- Pinching
a. To produce bushier, more compact
plants
- petunias, snapdragons
until early July |