1. Selecting a Site (minimum of 1/2 day of sun; more sun the better yield)
A) Gentle north east slope
-retards fruit tree budding out and flowering
-decreases
risk of sunscald and dessication
-good
air drainage decreases late spring frosts damage
-good
drainage - plants don't like wet feet
B) 12-15' North of a Building
-
retards early budding and flowering
-
almost eliminates risk of sunscald
- may
reduce the hours of sun too much
C) Soil Type
- well drained loamy garden soil
D) Within farm building site
(fruit trees)
-
protection from the north and west in the winter
-
protection from south in the summer
- 50'
or more from shelterbelts (moisture and snow damage)
2. Obtaining Nursery Stock
A) When possible, purchase from local nurseries
- normally carry hardier materials
- more
likely to be in good condition
- can
pick out and see what you buy
-
easier to resolve any problems which may develop
B) Sizes (Fruit Trees)
- sold according to height and diameter
-
3-4', 3/8-1/2" easiest to get established
-
prune back larger trees more at planting; slower to establish
-
don't plant dwarf trees unless rootstocks can be well protected
C) Bare Root, Containers and Potted
- bare root should be planted as soon as possible
-
potted and container grown plants don't need to be planted right away
-
potted plants are bare root plants potted up by the nursery
-
container grown plants; grown for at least a year in the same container
- if
plants have leafed out; try not to disturb the roots when planting
-
always remove the pots and containers when planting
3. Care of Nursery Stock Before Planting (Bare Root)
A) Upon arrival
-
unwrap plants and examine roots
- if
dried out soak in water for 2-4 hours
- if
excessively dried out or soft and mushy, contact the seller
4. Site Preparation
- firm well settled soil is desireable
- if soil lacks fertility, add fertilizer, well
rotted manure or compost
- base
on soil test, if possible
5. Planning (especially for tree fruits)
- draw up a plan; difficult to change a planting once
planted
- group species together for better pollination e.g.
apples in a group
6. Plant Spacings
-
apples and pears
20' x 20' or 15' x 20'
-
stone fruits
10' x 15' or 15' x 15'
7. Planting
A) Early spring as soon as soil can be prepared and before growth
has started.
B) Preplant treatment for bare root plants
- keep
roots moist, wrap in wet burlap or put in water; no more than 4 hours
- prune off
all damaged and injured roots
C) Planting
- dig hole
larger than spread of roots
- plant
with graft just below the soil level
- if
rootstock is not hardy, place the graft 2" below the soil surface
(e.g. cherries
& apricots)
- lowest
permanent branch should be facing the southwest
- put good
soil into hole and work around the roots
- if
subsoil is poor, mix in top soil, compost or well rotted manure
- fill hole
3/4 full of soil and fill with water
- finish
filling, leaving a shallow soil basin
- remove or
loosen wire fastened tags
- prune
bare root trees to compensate for root loss
- remove
all weak and poorly positioned branches
- if not
previously pruned, shorten the leader and branches by 1/3 to 1/2
8. Weed Control
A) Immature Trees
- clean
cultivation during growing season
- may mulch
instead of cultivate (higher cost and mice problems)
- grass and
weeds around trees can be controlled by herbicides
B) Mature Trees
- permanent
grass cover with area around trunk kept clean
- may want
to keep cultivated in drier climates
9. Fertilization
A) When & How
- usually
in early spring
- apply in
root zone area
B) Fertilizer Content
- nitrogen
- use ammonium sulfate or ammonium nitrate in this area
-
phosphorus - use a rate higher than nitrogen; stimulates fruit production
- potassium
- use a rate similar to the rate of nitrogen applied
C) Iron Supplement
- chelated
iron may be used if iron chlorosis is a problem
D) Rate
- 1/2 lb
times age of the tree; (10-20-10) or a similar fertilizer
- 6-8 lbs
maximum fertilizer per tree
10.Pruning
A) Immature Fruit Trees (before fruiting)
- as needed
at planting
- in early
spring after severe cold has past but before new growth
- prune to
train and shape tree (4-6 major limbs needed)
- select
scaffold branches in first few years
- branch
spreaders can be used to widen crotch angles
- narrow
crotch angles are weak and split easily
- remove
damaged, diseased and injured wood whenever necessary
- treat
pruning wounds of apples, crabapples and pears
- use a
wound dressing (pruning paint or a water base latex house paint)
B) Mature Fruit Trees
- remove
waterspouts, suckers and inner fine wood
- prune out
crowded, diseased and dead limbs
- apples
and pears - produced on spurs on old wood
- prune back new growth
- remove fine inner wood for better sun penetration
- stone
fruits - produce fruit on relatively young wood
- fruit buds are short and rounded; between two pointed leaf buds
- prune by removing older branches; encourages greater new growth
11.Pollination
A) Apples and Crabapples
- requires
two different varieties for good fruit set
- flowering
crabapples will act as a pollinator
B) European Plums
- self
fruitful
C) Hybrid Plums
- requires
two different varieties for good fruit set
- ''Toka'
and 'South Dakota' are good pollinizers
- hybrid
plums and cherry plums will cross pollinate
- wild plum
will also work as a pollinator
D) Cherry Plums
- requires
two different varieties for a good fruit set
- 'Compass'
is a good pollinizer
- hybrid
plums and cherry plums will cross pollinate
- wild
plums will also work as a pollinator
E) Cherries (sour)
- self
fruitful
F) Apricots
- two
different varieties are recommended for a good fruit set
- some
varieties are somewhat self fruitful
G) Pears
- requires
two different varieties for good fruit set
12. Animal Damage (during the winter)
A) Mechanical Barriers
- large
mesh hardware cloth 3' high with tin can around trunk
- small
mesh hardware cloth
B) Chemical Repellant Paints and Sprays
13. Thinning Fruit
- hand thin
after June drop or about July 1
- decrease
biennial bearing, improves fruit color and size
- reduces
limb breakage
14. Winter Protection
- wrap with paper tree wrap or plastic tree guards
- paint trunks with white latex paint |