Any time from October through December, spring bulbs can be potted for winter flowering. The forcing of bulbs can be described as the flowering of the bulb out of season or out of its normal environment. Hyacinths, tulips, crocus, daffodils and several other spring flower bulbs can be forced.

Plant the bulbs in a good potting soil or a loamy garden soil. Fill the pot 2/3 to 3/4 full of soil. Don't pack the soil. Place the bulbs on the soil and fill the pots to within ½ inch of the rim. Only the necks or tips of the bulbs should be showing. Water well and never allow the soil to dry out. A temperature of 38 to 45 degrees F. is ideal for rooting. Temperatures which are too cold will slow the rooting process; whereas warmer temperatures will hasten top growth before the roots are well established.

Normally bulbs require 12 to 13 weeks of cold treatment to ensure adequate rooting and to obtain from 1 to 4 inches of top growth. After this period of time the bulbs can be brought into a cool, sunny location. A temperature of 50 to 60 degrees F. for the first week is preferred or until the shoot and leaves are expended. Then they can be moved into a warmer location. Avoid direct sun. Hyacinths may have a tendency not to have an elongated flower stem and hence "stick" in the clasp of the leaves. This may be overcome by putting the plants in the dark for a few days in order to "draw" the flower out of the bulb. Once in flower, cool temperatures (especially at night) will prolong the flower life. Discard the plants after flowering as they normally won't flower again satisfactorily.

This page was last updated April 2003

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