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Pruning a Deciduous Tree

Source: NDSU Extension Service Horticulturist

Pruning of deciduous trees is done for several reasons.

(1) The basic framework of a tree should be established when it is young through the elimination of double leaders, weak crotches and interfering branches.

(2) Dead, diseased or broken branches should be promptly removed.

(3) Lower branches are sometimes removed from trees to provide clearance for foot or vehicular traffic or to create a feeling of spaciousness.

(4) Trees that have suffered root loss through transplanting or construction activity require pruning to bring their leaf area into a proper relationship with the reduced root system.

In general, the ideal pruning time is while the trees are dormant just before new growth in spring. Pruning wounds heal most quickly at this time of year. Usually there is also less chance of damage to turf and other plantings during the dormant season.

Some trees "bleed" or exude sap from pruning wounds when pruned in spring. For this reason, maples , birches, elms, and black walnuts are usually pruned after leafing in the spring.

Observe these basic pruning fundamentals:

(1) Always make pruning cuts at a bud or at an adjoining side branch so that no branch stubs remain. Stubs die back which prevents healing of the pruning wound and allows disease organisms to gain entry into healthy tissue.

(2) When removing large branches, make an initial undercut to reduce the possibility of tearing the bark as the branch falls from the tree.

(3) Recent research has shown that the application of pruning paints or dressings to pruning cuts is of minor value to wound healing.

(4) It is suggested that a competent arborist be engaged to prune large shade trees. They have the skill and the equipment to safely perform "off the ground" pruning operations.

For future reference, you may want a copy of Extension bulletin H-1036, "Pruning Trees," which is available at your county office of the NDSU Extension Service.

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