NEWS for North Dakotans
Agriculture Communication, North Dakota State
University
7 Morrill Hall, Fargo, ND 58105-5665
February 19, 1998
Ron Smith, Extension Horticulturist
North Dakota State University
Q. Help!! I need an address. Several years ago you had the name and address of a nursery in New York state that sells hardy fruit trees that are suitable for our area. I ordered a catalog and was quite impressed with the number of varieties and their root stock, etc. Have lost the catalog; can't remember the name or the town. Can you please check your files and send me the information so that we can place an order.
Thank you. (Frankfort, S.D.)
A. Glad to help! The nursery is: St. Lawrence Nursery, 325 State Highway 345, Pottsdam, New York 13676. Phone: 315-265-0778.
Q. Can you tell me why I have trouble growing bush-like roses such as Potentilla and Snowball? Last summer they were neglected because I had to move away for the summer so I didn't get to water when they needed it. Other seasons they haven't done great either. They just start slowly dying off .
I enjoy reading your articles. (Devils Lake, N.D.)
A. Most of the shrubs you mentioned require fairly extensive sunlight. It could be they are not getting enough.
Also, you didn't say how old your landscaping was. Things change over time. Soluble salts in the soil and water, shade from adjacent trees and construction activity. All these factors and more can influence the health or vigor of a shrub planting. Once stressed by the environment, the door opens for opportunistic insects and pathogens to move in and cause their damage.
Q. We plant petunias in our planter, which is located in the sun all day. In the fall when we dig them up, they have never established a root system. Can you tell me why? (Valley City, N.D.)
A. This often happens when herbaceous plants like petunias are planted when root-bound—which most are. The fibrous root system, developed in the marketplace container, fills all the available pore space. The grower kept everything alive through watering and nearly continuous fertilization.
You didn't say that your petunias looked poorly, just that they lacked an established root system, so you likely did a very good job of meeting their water and nutrient needs during the season.
If you want to correct this, split the rootball with hand pruners or a knife at the time of planting. This will encourage new roots to develop and move out into the surrounding soil.
When you are handling just a dozen or so plants—not too much of a problem; when it gets into the thousands, then all you want to do is get the job done!
Q. I'm getting pulled together and making all those important planting decisions now. However, as I'm planning and scheming my way through the seed catalogs, I'm finding I'm in need of information. Please help me with days to germination, sun requirements, and weeks to bloom for Abutilon, Bird of Paradise, Dahlberg Daisy, and Ipomosis.
Thanks for your expertise. (Minot, N.D.)
A. Your letter will likely be very close to the top in asking some simple, but tough questions. I'll give it my best shot.
Dahlberg Daisy—give yourself about 12 to 16 weeks before your outdoor transplant date. Don't keep too wet, and try to irrigate with room-temperature water. My references don't specify light for germination, so I assume they should be lightly covered. Better get them sown fast, as they take four months from seed to flower. They do best in full sun, but will take light shade.
Abutilon—another plant requiring 4 to 5 months to go from seed to flower. Once started, you are better off to propagate from stem cuttings. Again, light is likely not required for germination and you should see emergence in 14 to 21 days. They seem to do better in light shade.
Bird-of-Paradise—I assume you mean Strelitzia. Saw this when I was living in Arizona. Very frost-sensitive, likes sunshine or light shade. No information on temperature requirements for germination, etc.
Ipomosis—A biennial treated like an annual in our region. Keep seeds at 65 F or below for germination, which should be in 15 days. Seedlings do not transplant well, so I would suggest sowing in peat pots. Put in full sun and water sparingly. Stake taller plants, which may reach 6 feet.
Hope this helps.
Q. This is a leaf from my peace lily. I love it, but I have a problem. The leaves get blotchy and dry up. I have tried not watering it, then watering it once a week. I am not having any luck. Could you please come to my rescue. Thank you. Enjoy your answers very much. (Jamestown, N.D.)
A. It is difficult to give you an accurate diagnosis, but my best guess is that the plant is responding to cold air drafts hitting it.
Peace lilies need warm, draft-free rooms, and peaty or compost soil to grow in which is kept almost constantly moist.
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Source: Ron Smith (701) 231-8161
Editor: Barry Brissman (701) 231-7866