NEWS for North Dakotans
Agriculture Communication, North Dakota State
University
7 Morrill Hall, Fargo, ND 58105-5665
March 12, 1998
Ron Smith, Extension Horticulturist
North Dakota State University
Q. I read your column every week. There is always something new and interesting to learn.
My question is about a begonia I have had since Mother's Day 1995. That spring and summer it was outdoors in my wishing well. That fall my daughter took some slips from it. One grew and I have had it potted and growing inside in front of my south window all this time. Up until this winter it grew and blossomed beautifully. Now it still blossoms, but they start opening and turn gray and die.
What is wrong? Is it a disease that might spread to my African Violets? Or is it something I am doing wrong?
It is in a pot with no drainage, but it is a very large one and I filled it one-third full of perlite then put the soil in.
Thank you for any help you may have for me. (Willow City, N.D.)
A. It sounds as if your plant has a fungal disease known as gray mold. This is brought on by too much moisture, overwatering, or too high a humidity—usually it is initiated by a wound of some sort.
You gave me a good hint—using perlite in the lower one-third of an undrained pot. This creates, eventually, anaerobic (oxygen-lacking) conditions in the soil, predisposing it to a disease like gray mold.
I suggest repotting in an African Violet (high organic) mix, in a freely drained pot (no perlite). Pick off and throw away any plant parts that exhibit the symptoms you described. Perhaps, in time, it will return to full heath.
Thanks for writing and the nice comments about the column.
Q. I saw your responses regarding growing Dahlberg daisies from seed. Dahlberg daisies must be very lazy in North Dakota. Mine take about two months from seed to bloom.
I continue to enjoy the column. Keep up the good work. (Frankfort, S.D.)
A. Thank you for reading the column and for writing.
My belief concerning Dahlberg Daisy is that our salts are high in the water (with a pH 8.9), the water is very cold and our light intensity is almost nil.
You folks in South Dakota live in the banana belt compared to us! I enjoy them anyway, no matter how long it takes to coax them into flowering.
Q. We are considering planting wildflowers in our city park and possibly at other city-owned sites. The total area planted would be 6,000-8,000 square feet. We will do the work this spring to have flowers for summer 1999.
I will enclose a page or two from a seed catalog. This is the only catalog I have at present. Can you suggest additional wildflower seed suppliers that we could contact?
We assume the seeds should be primarily perennials. A very important consideration is that we not introduce any noxious plants that will cause future problems for local farmers. Your suggestions on this concern and any other general comments you care to make would be helpful. (Sherwood, N.D.)
A. The catalog you are referring to, Wildseed Farms, is one of the best. Their mix for the north certainly would not cause any problems with noxious weeds.
Others you may want to consider are: Blue Bird Nurseries (Phone: 800-356-9164), PO Box 460, Clarkson, NE 68629; High Country Gardens, 2902 Rafina Street, Santa Fe, NM 87505-2929; High Altitude Gardens, PO Box 1048, Hailey, ID 83333; Prairie Ridge Nursery, RR 2, 9738 Overland Road, Mt. Horeb, WI 53572-2832 (phone: 608-437-5245) and there are many, many more.
Q. Thank you for the information on the care of the cyclamen plant. I would like for you to examine these leaves I am sending. They were a bright green. Now they are brown and some have dark specks. Could that be plant lice?
Thank you. (Dickey, N.D.)
A. The leaf samples you sent had no evidence of insect or mite activity that I could detect with my microscope.
The spots you are seeing appear to be corky lesions that usually come about from overwatering. What I was looking at could have also been dried fungal sporesagain brought about by excessive watering.
I am glad the information on the cyclamen helped. Please refer to the last page of our houseplant circular, PP-744, "House Plants: Proper Care and Problem Solving," and the color photos of plant diseases to help you in better diagnosing what problems may exist with your plants.
Q. I have two trees that I planted probably 10 to 15 years ago. They were given to me as seedlings by our local Soil Conservation District and they told me they were pear trees. They have grown to about 20 feet or so. The last three springs they had blossoms that covered the whole tree, but have never set any fruit. I can't find out what variety they are and why they don't produce any fruit. Can you give me any help? (Denhoff, N.D.)
A. If they came from the SCS, they were likely pears that are used for hardiness, and not fruit production—the Harbin or Ussurian pear.
Appreciate them for their form and flowers. They are essentially non-fruiting, at least from an edible perspective.
To get the fruit-bearing type try to get two cultivars that are not alike—"Gourmet," "Luscious," "Patten," "Sodak" and "Ure."
In fact, if you get just one of the above cultivars, the Harbins can act as pollinators.
Thanks for writing.
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Source: Ron Smith (701) 231-8161
Editor: Barry Brissman (701) 231-7866