NEWS for North Dakotans
Agriculture Communication, North Dakota State
University
7 Morrill Hall, Fargo, ND 58105-5665
March 19, 1998
Ron Smith, Extension Horticulturist
North Dakota State University
Q. I am looking for some watermelon seed. Years ago my dad raised a watermelon often referred to as a winter melon. It was round, about the size of a basketball, white or cream colored on the outside with red flesh and black seeds, and very sweet. Also an excellent keeper as we ate them well into November and December after they'd been kept in the basement.
I have tried a lot of seed companies with no success. Would appreciate any help that you can provide.
Many thanks. (Hecla, S.D.)
A. That is one I have not heard of. I will keep your letter on file and see if any of our readers can help. If so, I will forward the information on to you.
Thanks for writing.
Q. I have enclosed two leaves from a hibiscus I found baking in the August sun outside the local Wal-Mart last summer. It looked bushy and healthy in the sun (if a little windburned), but bringing it into my air-conditioned home, it promptly shed at least half of its leaves. I thought this might be its natural fall pattern, but I eventually had to prune back some of the bare stems so it didn't look so gangly. I also noticed some shiny spots below the new growth that finally appeared and associated these spots with what looked like pollen that previously fell from the flowers. Now this "pollen" is appearing all over the plant, but is most concentrated on the new growth. I sprayed the entire plant with soapy water, thinking I had some infestation, but the syndrome continued. I also tried some mild insecticide while it was still warm enough to do outside. No change. Please give me some clues to cure or clue too relax. The plant still looks healthy and other plants around it don't seem to be affected...yet.
Thank you for your advice last fall on my orange tree seedlings' browning leaves. Sure enough, watering them with non-softened water made the difference, and the mother tree is again producing lots of oranges. (Jamestown, N.D.)
A. Nothing to worry about! In close examination, I found salt crystal deposits in those "shiny spots," from either your water source or too much fertilizer.
If the plant is in a water-tight container or pot, this could cause salt accumulation to take place as well.
Q. Enjoy your horticultural advice and do I need help. My African violets are the problem. They keep multiplying in the pot, are blooming some, but think they would bloom more if they didn't multiply so much. Should I just dig the new plant as it starts? They are in south and west windows with blinds.
Any advice would be appreciated. (Breckenridge, Minn.)
A. African violets should be divided and repotted every year or so, depending on their vigor. You can propagate the cut leaves by simply immersing the leaf petiole into shallow water or a peat/sand mix that is kept moist.
Let them get plenty of bright light, but no direct sunlight, for maximum flowering to take place. Fertilize every 3 to 4 weeks, from spring until autumn, with appropriate fertilizer.
Thanks for writing.
Q. When I plant flowers in containers the soil becomes so hard the water runs right through and out the drain holes. The plants are not getting the water that they need. Also, last summer some of my potatoes (Kennebec) were rotten in the ground and would also rot in the bag after digging. Can you help me with these two problems?
I really enjoy reading your articles and your answers are very helpful. (Platte, S.D.)
A. If you add copious amounts of sphagnum Canadian peat moss to the container mix, I guarantee that it will hold water much better than it ever has.
Concerning the potato rot: I checked with our potato breeder, Dr. Jim Lorenzen, and he thinks the problem is late blight, a fungus affectionately known as Phytophthora infestans. This fungus thrives when the temperatures range from 50 to 75 F and the relative humidity remains around 75 percent for at least 48 hours. Late blight symptoms will show up in two to three weeks. The fungal spores reach the tubers, and cause the rot to continue after the harvest.
If it gives you any small comfort, this is a famous fungus, the same one that caused the great Irish potato famine, and that contributed to the loss by the German army during World War I.
To control: Rotate crops and spray with chlorothalonil when the plants are about 6 inches tall, and repeat every 10 days. Allow the tubers to cure about a week before digging.
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Source: Ron Smith (701) 231-8161
Editor: Barry Brissman (701) 231-7866