NEWS for North Dakotans
Agriculture Communication, North Dakota State
University
7 Morrill Hall, Fargo, ND 58105-5665
April 16, 1998
Ron Smith, Extension Horticulturist
North Dakota State University
Q. Several years ago I bought a small "goldfish" plant. It thrived, displaying forest green oval leaves and orange purse-like flowers.
After bringing it home from the county fair in June, 1996, it began dropping leaves at the slightest touch. It is in the same location as before, but is "woody." The leaves it retains are a nice green, but not as dark as before. The leaves that drop do not discolor before dropping.
I have transplanted it about 10 months ago. I periodically fertilize it. Please advise. No parasites visible.
Goldfish plant is not listed in any plant book I can find. What is its proper name?
I have tried to start rooting slips, but they don't root. How do I cultivate it?
Thank you. (Buchanan, N.D.)
A. The goldfish plant is known as Columnea rubra, and could be one of several cultivars now presently on the market, or a long established hybrid like C. `Alpha,' C. `Banksii,' or C. `Mary Ann.'
All Columneas need bright light, without it being direct sunlight. Some species will require supplemental lighting from fluorescent bulbs to meet the light requirement. I suspect this is the case with yours, based on what you have told me.
The next requirement is high humidity around the leaves, but sparse watering. North Dakota homes in winter have desert-like humidity, another cause for leaf drop.
Being an epiphytic plant—not growing in soil, but in the body of another woody plant or rocks—it should not be in standard potting soil. Try repotting in equal parts sphagnum peatmoss, vermiculite or soil, and perlite or sand.
Columneas are among the more challenging gesneriads, which include African violets and gloxinias.
Thanks for writing.
Q. Enclosed is a leaf of a peperomia plant. I cannot figure out what I did wrong. Sure hope you can help me out by sending me a note telling me what I did wrong. (Petersburg, N.D.)
A. Your question is a simple one, but to come up with the correct answer is tough.
The leaf discoloration shows no pathogenic symptoms that I can identify, so I will have to ask you some questions:
The peperomia is a low light plant. Is it or has it been situated in such a way that it is now getting direct sunlight?
They have very limited root systems. Is it in a container that is too large and holds water too long?
Are all the leaves affected in the same manner? Does it seem to be progressing from bad to worse, or was this the only leaf?
Have you been using any pressurized sprays to control insects?
I am sorry to frustrate you with these questions, but if you can provide more information, perhaps I can be a better help.
Q. At the end of our yard we have woven wire that runs east and west. I would like to plant some shrubs that spread out and don't grow too tall, because we have cattle on the south side of the fence. It is about 150 to 200 feet long. What would be a good thing to plant?
Also, a couple of weeks ago, you named a maple tree that was red in fall. I have lost the name of that tree. (Tappen, N.D.)
A. I would suggest planting Russian almond (Prunus tenella). It is hardy, moderately drought-tolerant and gets about 4 feet tall.
The maple I suggested was likely an Amur maple. It gets about 15 to 25 feet tall. That or the Tatarian maple. Both look about the same with rewarding fall color. Try to get the `Embers' cultivar.
Q. In late fall of last year I had a 20-foot mountain ash tree moved to a full sun location. The tree mover used a large unit to move the tree. A cone-shaped hole 6½ feet in diameter and about 6 feet in depth. Many of the dry brown leaves still cling to the tree. My questions are: (1) Do I need to prune back the branches and (2) Do I need to apply a fertilizer?
Another question is in regard to two North Dakota hybrid ash trees. Both trees are approximately 18 feet tall and 5 years old. One of the trees developed a vertical split in the bark including the cambium layer. The growing outer part remained viable. The vertical split is near the base of the tree and approximately 10 inches long.
I put bark protectors at the base of each of the trees. These are loose-fitting plastic cylinders split lengthwise with holes for circulation to allow for expansion growth. I can not find any insect damage. Both trees had adequate leaf and growth last season. Any suggestions?
Is there any way to control slugs with a spray this spring or a repellent around plants late this summer?
I read your column every week. You provide many gardeners with helpful suggestions. Thank you. (Faulkton, S.D.)
A. No fertilization or pruning should be needed unless there are broken or diseased branches. The old leaves will fall when the new emerge.
Do nothing on your ash trees at this time. The wound should gradually close. Next fall, wrap the trees before snowfall, remove by April 1.
I know of no sprays for slug control, but there are several baits available, along with the "old beer" trap that works about as well. I have enclosed extension circular H-887, "Controlling Slugs in Home Gardens." Others may obtain a copy from any county office of the NDSU Extension Service, or by calling the Ag Communication Distribution Center at (701) 231-7882.
Thanks for writing and the flattering comment about the column.
Q. Please could you tell me what is wrong with my garden soil? What can I put on it? My radishes come up nice and then they just turn into tops and no radishes. I have planted them thick, then I have planted them thin and still just have tops. Thank you. (Towner, N.D.)
A. Your problem sounds like the classic of too high a nitrogen content in the soil
Fertilizers for vegetable gardens should be higher in phosphorus than N. I suggest working in about 10 to 15 pounds of 5-10-5 per 1,000 square feet of garden.
Your radishes may also be getting too much shade. All vegetables should have at least six hours of direct sunlight. Thanks for writing.
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Source: Ron Smith (701) 231-8161
Editor: Barry Brissman (701) 231-7866