NEWS for North Dakotans
Agriculture Communication, North Dakota
State University
7 Morrill Hall, Fargo, ND 58105-5665
May 14, 1998
Ron Smith, Extenstion Horticulturist
North Dakota State University
Q. We bought our house 10 years ago after it had sat empty for several years. No one took care of the flower beds while it was empty. Apparently, the tulips reseeded themselves because every year since, tulips have been coming up all over the place. We never know where we'll be seeing new plants. Each spring brings a surprise! They usually come up in inconvenient places, but I haven't moved them because I'm not sure when would be the best time. If I wait until fall, I can't remember where they all are. I tried to mark some of them a couple of years ago, but grandkids didn't realize what the markers were and moved them. I also need to dig up some that I planted a couple of years ago that have multiplied and are much too thick.
On another note, I'd like to tell you about our pussy willow tree. I always wanted one and even though I knew it probably wouldn't survive, the price wasn't bad so I bought one. The first year we left it in the container because we couldn't agree where to plant it and buried the container in the ground on the east end of our garage. We planted it permanently in the spring of `96. It's now about 5 1/2 feet tall, bushy and covered with pussies. It spent the winter of `97 under a 10-foot snowbank and this past winter with no cover at all. I realize we may not have it for long, but we are sure enjoying it now! I snipped off a couple of branches that were near the ground about a month ago and brought them in, put them in some water so we could enjoy the pussies a little longer. Lo and behold, no pussies but leaves and roots. So I planted them in a flower pot and plan to plant them out when the weather settles a tish more.
We enjoy your columns both in the Farmers Forum and our Ransom County Gazette and have learned so much. You really should compile your columns into a book! (Stirum, N.D.)
A. Thanks for the nice newsy letter!
Move the tulips as the leaves yellow and can just about be separated from the bulb. Store them cool and dry until Labor Day, then plant where you want them.
Sounds like you are having fun with your pussy willows. Keep on trying.
Q. We have lilac bushes in front of our house, which we cut down as they weren't blooming very much. How can we get the main bush to grow and not the suckers or side shoots to come up? What can we do and use to kill the side shoots? Or isn't it possible to control them?
Thank you for any help you can give us. We read your plant and garden tips every Friday and have learned a lot. (Clifford, N.D.)
A. Suckering of lilacs is a typical problem with homeowners, though a desired quality in shelterbelt plantings.
You can try weed barrier cloth covered with 3 to 4 inches of mulch. Unfortunately, there is nothing that will selectively kill off the suckers. Sorry!
Q. I recently purchased begonias and gloxinias. I believe they are perennials, but don't know if they have to be lifted in the fall.
Do you have any pamphlets on what perennials do and do not have to be lifted? I'm trying to get a flower bed started with the ones that need no lifting.
I would also like some literature on what to plant where in my vegetable garden. I understand that some things do not do well next to each other, but don't know which ones.
Why did my Yucca plant not bloom the last year or two? It greens up nicely, but that's it. Should I have cut back the leaves last fall?
Why don't the companies that package these perennials put the information I have requested on the package? All they state on the package is the planting method and whether they are annuals or perennials. Some don't even give that much information. (Orient, S.D.)
A. A lot of questions! Plants that are perennial in zone 3 or 4 (N.D. and S.D.) do not need lifting. Annuals like the gloxinias and begonias will die out if they are not brought in prior to fall frosts.
Your Yucca plant likely did not bloom either because of too much kindness or not enough direct sunlight.
The enclosed literature will help answer your other questions: "House Plants Proper Care and Problem Solving," PP-744, and "Annual and Perennial Flower Selections for North Dakota," H-322. Others may obtain these publications from any county office of the NDSU Extension Service or by calling the State Distribution Center at NDSU, (701) 231-7882.
Q. Enclosed in the box is a sample of an evergreen tree. I would like to know what is wrong with it and what, if anything, can be done for it. A big part of the tree has turned brown.
Please reply as soon as possible. Thank you.
I enjoy your column very much. It is very informative. (Esmond, N.D.)
A. Your spruce is showing mostly environmental stress—wind desiccation, possible root zone saturation, possible salt burn or a combination of all of these along with some others.
If this occurred largely over this past winter, then it is likely due to winter desiccation. The buds are healthy, so in all probability the new growth will emerge OK, and there is a chance some of the older growth will re-green if the damage is not too extensive.
Q. Received a Meadowlark forsythia many years ago. This year it's beautiful, all yellow with bloom—the first year it ever bloomed, so this proves it's not really a plant from this part of North Dakota. (Hannaford, N.D.)
A. Any plant material released by NDSU horticulturists undergoes 10 years of evaluation at seven different sites around the state. If they don't measure up, they never make it.
My only guess is that you must have received a mislabeled specimen or the conditions were so bad at your particular planting site that the flower buds were injured.
The plant has been a great success industry-wide in the northern U.S. and Canada.
Q. The enclosed leaves are from a plant that I have had many years. About a month ago the leaves had edges that looked like insects had caused those edges. I never see any insects around the plant. Also, the stems are very limp. They used to be firm and stand erect. Now they hang over the edge.
I would appreciate any information. Thank you. (Fargo, N.D.)
A. Your samples were rotted beyond my ability to diagnose what could have gone wrong.
Enclosed is Extension publication PP-744, "House Plants Proper Care and Problem Solving." It will give you information on houseplant problems to aid you in some self-diagnosis.
Q. I read your excellent advice and look forward to it every week.
I am enclosing two pictures of some miserable apple trees that are about 30 years old. No. 1 produces lots of apples, every other year or so, that are good for canning and pies. No. 2 does not produce much fruit, but when it does, they are good eating apples. Would you recommend any pruning of these trees? If yes, could you mark what should be cut out this year with one pen and next year with another? The leaves are just starting to bud, so it may be a little late already, but I would like to learn.
Thank you for any advice you can give me. (Freeman, S.D.)
A. I admire your desire to learn, but what you are asking I cannot do. Both trees would benefit from pruning, it is obvious. Pruning needs to be done yearly and with a thoughtful, logical approach, involving the health and aesthetics of the tree, as well as ease in harvesting. To mark lines on a couple of photos would be a travesty of the art and science of pruning.
The best I can do is to suggest you do two things: read the enclosed publication H-327, "Tree Fruit Culture and Varieties in North Dakota," where pruning principles are discussed, and contact the Ag Communication Distribution Center at 701-231-7399 and ask for a copy of our video on "Pruning Tips for Early Spring."
Thank you for the kind comments about the column.
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Source: Ron Smith (701) 231-8161
Editor: Barry Brissman (701) 231-7866