NEWS for North Dakotans
Agriculture Communication, North Dakota State
University
7 Morrill Hall, Fargo, ND 58105-5665
June 18, 1998
Ron Smith, Extension Horticulturist
North Dakota State University
Q: This is a leaf from a peace lily. I have tried to keep it watered properly in a corner of the living room out of direct sunlight, and very little draft. First the very tips turn brown, and then gradually the whole leaf.
Also, can you tell me why my cyclamens tend to let all their stems droop down? There again, I try to keep it moist, out of the direct sun. Why is it doing this? (Fargo, N.D.)
A: It sounds as if you are doing everything right, except pouring off the excess water from your container's saucer. While this plant needs ample moisture to thrive, it should not have the roots standing in it.
Cyclamens need rest periods and yours may be trying to tell you just that.
Q: Enclosed are two samples from 2-year-old old dwarf European cranberry bushes, Viburnum opulus, `Nanum.' Parts of the bushes look really healthy but all three plants have these deformed leaves. What is it and what can I do to get rid of it? Also, what fertilizer should I use? (Jamestown, N.D.)
A: The deformed leaves are brought about by aphid activity. To control, spray with an insecticide like Sevin or Orthene.
Viburnums and other woody plants seldom need fertilization. When they do, I suggest about a half pint per shrub of 5-10-5 or something similar.
Q: We have a problem that is very frustrating. What can we do with rabbits that eat and chew on our flowers and other plants? We have tried blood meal and red pepper, but to no avail. (Moorhead, Minn.)
A: I have something new for you to try to keep the rabbits away! Craig Armstrong, the city forester in Dickinson, swears this works. Try placing a couple of motion detector statue frogs in some strategic locations on your property. I was told that when these things croak, the cottontail goes running!
Q: I have a Piggy Back plant my girl friend gave me about two years ago. I brought it home, and it looked like it was almost dead, so I transplanted it into a bigger pot. I used some dirt from my garden, gave it some plant food and put it out in our family room, which is cool. Come winter, it was beautiful. The leaves were so nice, and shiny, but it began to look so droopy this spring I didn't know what to do so I transplanted it again, in fresh sorgum and potting soil. I also put some more root powder on the roots, but it still looks pretty droopy. Could you give me any advice? Am I doing the right things? Is there some fertilizer I can give it to bring it back? (Carrington, N.D.)
A: You've obviously got a green thumb talent if you can bring one of these back to life! Let's see if I can continue your good fortune. First, it is the nature of the plant to have drooping leaves, to allow the "youngster" to touch the soil and root. Keep the soil moist and fertilize with Schultz's or similar houseplant fertilizer on a weekly basis until September. You can also propagate by taking plantlets from the leaves.
Q: I would like to know how to care for a Chenille plant. (Jamestown, N.D.)
A: The Chenille plant Acalypha hispida, thrives in high humidity and moist soil. Fertilize every couple of weeks from February until August. Keep pruned to desired form—and use prunings as cuttings for propagation purposes. Repot around the first of February. The plant does best in partial shade, not direct sunlight.
Q: This is an update on the letter I sent you two years ago about my scion or budwood apple seedlings. These trees have survived their third Minnesota winter. A year ago last fall I transplanted one tree and last fall I transplanted six more. They all are fine. One tree is 3 feet tall, and most are between 2 and 2 1/2 feet tall. I do hoe around them and when it gets dry I have been watering them. This spring I pruned some of the trees. This fall I will move a couple more trees, as I planted them too close to some other trees. (Dent, Minn.)
A: That's great news! Let's give them five more years (summer 2003) to bear fruit—then I'd really be interested in them. Keep up the good work—you've obviously got a green thumb.
Q: I am enclosing some leaves from our maple tree, it is about 8 years old. We had the same problem last year. It is planted close to box elder trees. We have another maple tree planted in another spot in our yard, which is close to some spruce trees and does not have the same problem. The trees are the same age. (Frazee, Minn.)
A: Thank you for the excellent sample. Your maple has a very attractive, photographic quality spindle-gall infestation.
These minor deformaties cause no harm to the tree, having only a cosmetic effect. Give them another year or so, and a predatory mite may discover these critters and make them a Sunday brunch sometime in April.
Q: Please identify the cause of these red spots on my willow trees leaves. The tree appears healthy, is 15 years old and more than 20 feet tall. The spots have been present for the last four to five years. (Bismarck, N.D.)
A: The blister-like swellings on your willow are galls that are caused by mite activity feeding in early spring as the leaves unfold. Nothing to worry about, as the damage is only cosmetic.
Q: Enclosed is a tomato leaf which is affected by something. Every year about six weeks into the growing season this same thing appears. I have used different spray/powders, which don't seem to help a whole lot. This does affect the size and number of fruit they produce. I hope you can tell me what might be wrong. If so, how can I correct this problem? (Gettysburg, S.D.)
A: Your sample was well on the way to rotting (please everybody send me dry samples). But from what I could guess, it appears to be herbicide residual damage.
If this is not a possibility, then please send another sample, packed dry.
Q: I would like to know if a Weigela bush should be pruned after it has flowered? I read it should be pruned to the ground after flowering to ensure good blooms next summer. Is this true? (Platte, S.D.)
A: Weigela will flower on new growth, so I suggest heavily pruning the growth that is 2 or more years old.
This is a fussy soil and drainage plant, so if your soil and drainage isn't suitable, the plant will always show a lot of dead wood coming out of winter. Then it would be appropriate to cut it to the ground to revive it.
Q: I have impatiens as houseplants, and they look healthy and get a lot of buds, but the buds fail to open. What am I doing wrong?
We spread weed and feed on our lawn in April. We like to use grass clippings as mulch in our garden. Can we use the grass this year in the garden? We have cut the lawn five times since. When is it safe to use?
I have Peony plants that have a lot of buds that have a hard time opening. I don't get ants on my plants, but a lot of flies. What is the problem?(Anamoose, N.D.)
A: I could not determine, from the sample you sent, why the flower buds will not open. I suspect it may be thrips, which are everywhere this spring. Try spraying with insecticidal soap—it is harmless.
It should be safe to now use the grass clippings in your garden. It is generally suggested to wait until at least three cuttings have been made.
I'll give you the "laundry list" of why peonies fail to bloom:
1. Planted too deep or too shallow.
2. Too immature—just divided.
3. Crowded—been in same spot too long.
4. Too much shade.
5. Insufficient nutrients.
6. Botrytis fungus.
I vote for #6, strictly as a guess. Dust with all-purpose fungicide and remove stems in fall after frosts have blackened them.
Q: Enclosed is a sample of mountain ash that has never bloomed. It died this spring and I am wondering why. (Devils Lake, N.D.)
A: The primary cause of the death of your mountain ash was a bacterium known as fireblight, Erwinia amylovora, which caused a canker to form on the root collar, killing the entire tree. This species of tree has become quite vulnerable to this bacterium due to damaging winds, hail and normal benign neglect on the part of homeowners.
Insects, birds and mankind are excellent vectors of this disease. It is particularly troublesome when the temperature is warm, humidity high, and convection storms (with high winds) frequent.
Spraying with Streptomycin is one option for protection. Additional materials include Bordeaux mixture and Benlate.
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Source: Ron Smith (701) 231-8161
Editor: Barry Brissman (701) 231-7866