NEWS for North Dakotans
Agriculture Communication, North Dakota
State University
7 Morrill Hall, Fargo, ND 58105-5665
September 17, 1998
Hortiscope
Ron Smith, Extension Horticulturist
North Dakota State University
Q: I have a question about how to grow cyclamen. Are there male and female plants? There is a lady here whose cyclamen has bloomed for two years steady, but mine still hasn't. (Mahnomen, Minn.)
A: I assure you that cyclamen are not separate-sex plants. Sometimes it takes a long time for cyclamen to produce flowers—15 to 16 months from seed. Also, your lady friend could have her plant in a better location that is more conducive to flowering: bright, indirect light.
Also, are you watering yours from below by placing the pot in a shallow, water-filled bowl and removing after about 10 minutes? The cyclamen is a challenge to grow, even for those with a greenhouse! At best, they are considered holiday gift plants, which are best discarded after blooming.
Q: When should I trim my wild plum trees, grape vines and cranberry trees? I also have sandy soil and I am wondering how I can get a nice lawn. I also would like to know what I can do to get larger apples on my tree? (Park Rapids, Minn.)
A: All of the above would be pruned in early spring before new growth emerges. Refer to the enclosed extension publication, "You Can Have a Beautiful Lawn" (H244) to answer your next question, and to get larger apples, do some picking in early June to thin them out somewhat.
Q: Enclosed is a plant that has recently invaded my lawn. Can you identify it and tell me how to get rid of it? (Fargo, N.D.)
A: You sent me a perfect sample of crabgrass! This is a warm-season annual that is killed off with fall frosts—but not until it has dropped thousands of seeds. Next spring, just as the forsythia flowers are fading (or the lilacs just opening) apply a preemergent product like Dimension® for control. Then, do everything possible to grow healthy, vigorous grass: fertilize, water, and mow regularly—doing so at 2½ to 3 inches. This should keep this pest from making a comeback!
Q: Can you tell me what is wrong with my ash trees? One has completely lost its leaves, and the other one is starting to lose its leaves. (Hankinson, N.D.)
A: The one that has lost all leaves is due to a severe case of a fungus known as Anthracnose. This flourishes early in the season if wet weather persists. Generally, it is not lethal, and simply collecting all fallen leaves this autumn and spraying the tree next spring just before leaf-out will control this—along with a drier spring!
Your second tree has somehow received a strong dose of herbicide, which is causing the distorted injury to the foliage. There isn't much you can do about this except to wait and hope it starts coming out of it next season. In the meantime, try to keep the tree from going through any environmental stress.
Q: I have enclosed some branches from an Alpine currant hedge that has been in place for four years. This year it has been browning and looking very poorly. I tried spraying with a systemic fungicide containing Daconil but it didn't seem to help. Can you please tell me what to do next? (Detroit Lakes, Minn.)
A: Wow! Anything that looks that bad I would cut out this fall and hope for a better show next year. If there is no improvement, I'd suggest dumping.
Q: The top of my nut tree has turned yellow during the summer. Can you tell me what causes this? (Sisseton, S.D.)
A: Your tree sample showed heavy infection of a fungal leaf spot disease. Control by cleaning all leaf litter this fall, then spray with lime-sulfur next spring just before bud break. After the leaves unfold, spray with a protective all-purpose fungicide.
Q: I have little white worms eating my raspberry plants. Can you tell me how to get rid of them? A sample is enclosed. (Velva, N.D.)
A: The sample you sent in was damaged by red-necked cane borers. Remove all affected canes and burn and spray with Sevin next spring just prior to when the blossoms open.
Q: There is something wrong with my tree, can you tell me what I can do with it from the sample enclosed? (Plaza, N.D.)
A: The elm foliage is showing a superficial fungus growth know as sooty mold. This is in response to feeding activity of aphids which secret a "honeydew" as a result of that feeding. It generally causes no serious damage, just spoils the aesthetics of the tree. If the tree is not too large, you could spray it with a dormant oil and lime-sulfur combination next spring before leaf-out. That should reduce the aphid population somewhat and sanitize the tree.
Q: There is a weed taking over my yard. Could you please identify and suggest a solution? (Elbow Lake, Minn.)
A: Could you please send me another dry sample? The first one, sent wet, was half rotted by the time it got to me. I'll be glad to help! Thanks.
Q: Enclosed is a bean pod with two beans in it. Could you tell me what kind of a bean they are, and if they are edible? (Moorhead, Minn.)
A: Any seed received in the mail that is unlabeled should never be used as food. The sample you sent was for ornamental purposes only, not for consumption. You are fortunate that you did not ingest enough to make yourself sick.
Please take care!
Q: It is not the water table that is killing my tree. The water table is down and it is still dying. I thought that it might be bugs, but I didn't see any. I have sent a photo. Could you help me once again. (Deer Creek, Minn.)
A: Your photos have given me another clue, I think. It looks as if the trees had soil fill placed over the roots. If I am correct in this interpretation, then this would be the cause of death after so many years. If I am incorrect, then I cannot tell without lab testing for disease presence.
Q: Here is a leaf of a plant that has pink flowers. It grew under my apple tree. Do you know what it could be? (Leola, S.D.)
A: If you would be kind enough to send me another sample with the leaves attached to a stem, I would have a better chance of identifying it for you. Thanks!
Q: I have a plant and it has 12 branches coming out of the ground. It is about 4 ft tall. Could you tell me the name of it? (Gackle, N.D.)
A: The plant sample was of Ficus benjamina, or weeping fig. This is not a winter hardy plant and should be brought in before the autumn frosts arrive. This genus of plants, the ficus or fig, are among the most popular of house plants. They benefit from spending the summer outdoors.
Q: Please tell me what kind of a plant this is? Would you please recommend a variety of strawberries? (Regan, N.D.)
A: The plant sample you sent in was velvet leaf Abutileu theophresti. This is an annual that you want to keep from setting seed.
This past spring was not exactly condusive to growing good strawberries—wet and cool—remember? You may want to try one of the June bearing varieties from the enclosed publication, "Strawberries" (H16), available from the NDSU Extension Service. It lists several. Two of my favorites are Honeoye and Glooscap.
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Source: Ron Smith (701) 231-8161 ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor: Dean Hulse (701) 231-6136