NEWS for North Dakotans
Agriculture Communication, North Dakota State University
7 Morrill Hall, Fargo, ND 58105-5665

November 25, 1998

Hortiscope

Ron Smith, Extension Horticulturist
North Dakota State University

Q: I have an established strawberry bed thick with grass. Last year I used Poast twice in the spring while the grass was still young and once in the fall, but no improvement. Is there a suggested concentration for strawberries? My plot is approximately 200 square feet (e-mail)

A: If you have used Poast based on label rate, it should have taken care of the grass in your berries. If it didn't, then you either have tough grass, or timing, application technique or something else was not right. You might be better off digging up a small patch of strawberries early next spring and killing everything else off that comes up after that with Roundup. Then replant.

Q: Can you tell me how to overwinter my gloxinia plant? Does it need a winter rest, and how do I go about giving it one? (Glenfield, N.D.)

A: You are correct in your assumption of the gloxinia needing a winter rest. Simply allow the plant to dry down and store at as close to 50 F as possible. Repot the tuber in good compost in the spring. Good luck. It takes the best of home gardeners to perpetuate this beautiful houseplant.

Q: Could you identify this sample of grass that is invading my lawn? (Elgin, N.D.)

A: I'm sorry, but in spite of the good sample, I was unable to identify your invading grass. The fact that it was still green at this time of year indicates that it is likely a perennial. I did not note any rhizomes. It could be broomsedge or something that was in your bird feeder taking root.

Roundup control is best when the plant is actively growing. It should work on this grass, whatever it is.

Q: We built several 18-inch square planter boxes on our new deck. We are wondering if we could plant trees in them to provide us with shade on our deck. Also can you please give me some ideas of some good shade trees? (Stirum, N.D.)

A: You are better off using the 18-inch planters for flowers rather than woody plants. They are simply too small to provide adequate root mass for proper support, water and nutrients.

I urge consideration of planting trees like the Amur maple (Acer girnala), Tatarian maple (Acer tatarical) and possibly the Autumn Splendor Ohio buckeye just off the sunny side of the deck. With the buckeye, the nuts and husks may be a problem, and they will for certain attract squirrels. Either plant it 10 to 15 feet from the deck to keep from getting hit with the nuts, or select another tree if you can't stand squirrels. If neither bother you, then go for it, as the maroon fall color is outstanding and the creamy yellow flowers are attractive.

I hope these suggestions solve the problem. Here are the plant specs: Ohio buckeye (height—20 to 40 feet, width—20 to 30 feet), Amur maple (height—15 to 20 feet, width—15 to 18 feet) and Tatarian maple (height—18 to 20 feet, width—18 to 20 feet.)

Q: I have a 2-year-old goldfish plant that is growing good, but it still hasn't bloomed. Am I using the wrong kind of soil or what is wrong? (Pettibone, N.D.)

A: The goldfish plant (Columnea sp.) is a plant that is not easy to care for. It definitely belongs to that group of houseplants that need pampering. Here are the requirements:

Q: This past summer my hostas had brown scorched tips, probably because it was a hot, dry summer, and also some insect damage (small holes in leaves). My question is: Do you cut down the leaves to prepare them for the winter or just leave them alone until spring? (McHenry, Ill., e-mail)

A: Hostas are a little salt sensitive, and when the salts are high and the weather dry, they tend to get the tip burn that you mentioned. In the Upper Midwest many of the hosta plants will manifest this physiological problem. Nothing to worry about—kind of like skin spots—unless they become progressive.

As far as the foliage damage goes, I'd bet a good dinner that it was from slugs. In a perfect world—at least in your yard, anyway—the foliage should be removed before the snow flies. This would tend to reduce the slug population from exposure to predators and the elements. If you can't get to this detail chore before winter closes in, removal in the early spring would certainly be OK. Some years I can get to it in the fall, other years, I can't. They grow no matter what.

###

Do you have a gardening or houseplant question? Write to Hortiscope, Box 5051, NDSU Extension Service, Fargo, ND 58105 or e-mail to Ron Smith at ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu.

Source: Ron Smith (701) 231-8161 ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu

Editor: Dean Hulse (701) 231-6136