NEWS for North Dakotans
Agriculture Communication, North Dakota
State University
7 Morrill Hall, Fargo, ND 58105-5665
January 14, 1999
Hortiscope
Ron Smith, Extension Horticulturist
North Dakota State University
Q: What do you recommend to spray for needlecast on spruce trees and anthracnose on green ash? (e-mail)
A: Needlecast on spruce and anthracnose on ash can be sprayed with the same materialchlorothalonil (Bravo) or bordeaux mixture. The timing is very important.
The spruce, infected with Rhizosphaera needlecast, should be sprayed twice in a single growing season, in early June and again in early July. This should be done for a period of two years to restore the tree to full foliage health.
With ash, spray the trees as soon as the buds start to swell, and again 10 to 14 days later. The disease is most virulent when the spring weather is cloudy and rainy. This treatment should be combined with selective pruning of dead branch tips that were cankered from this fungus.
Q: Could you send me some information about strawberries, juneberries and raspberries for northern Minnesota? (Newfolden, Minn.)
A: Refer to the following publications from the NDSU Extension Service: "Strawberries" (H16), "Refreshing Raspberries for Home-Grown Goodness" (H38) and "Juneberry" (H938). If you require anything further, please get back in touch!
Q: Can you tell me what kind of "mouse nuts" I have enclosed? I found them in a shoe box in my closet and was wondering what they were. It kind of looks like some of them might be cherries, but I'm not sure. How do you think the mouse made it into my house? (Valley City, N.D.)
A: Those looked mostly like linden seeds or nuts. Could have been a couple of cherries mixed in. As far as how a mouse operates, your guess is as good as mine! There is obviously some run or opening to your house, and the mouse thought the shoe box would be good storage. Just be thankful there is no evidence of nesting. I'd suggest a "glue trap." Place some foodnuts of courseon a piece of cardboard and surround it with rodent glue. That way you'll be able to trap the culprit without the gore!
Q: If you are still interested in how to keep cats out of the garden, the answer is at the zoo. I learned this in Memphis, Tenn., from an article in the "Commercial Appeal" newspaper. Zoo doo. Yes, get some genuine "predator" zoo manure (not from "prey animals") and the cats will scat. (e-mail)
A: Thanks for the tip! I'm sure my readers will be interested in learning about this. Do you know that there is at least one company in the country that sells urine from predatory animals to keep dogs and cats from damaging the landscape? Have a great New Year!
Q: We received an amaryllis plant for Christmas last year and it grew really well and had two beautiful flowers. After it finished flowering we put it in the basement and brought it out on the first of December this year. It started growing nicely, up to 10 inches tall and the two leaves started to droop. I put a small stick in there and tied them up. I then gave it a Jobe's plant food spike, but it doesn't seem to be helping it much. It is still green, but it doesn't seem to be growing any more. Can you please tell me what is wrong with my plant? (Gettysburg, S.D.)
A: The plant food spikes will do little good. I'd suggest their removal. The plant is making its own "food" via the green leaves on it now. Keep on doing what you are currently doing until summer. Then allow it to dry down for the summer and early fall, and bring it out again in November. Follow the same procedure you established this year. If you're fortunate, it will bloom.
Refer to "Amaryllis Care in the Home" (H811), a publication of the NDSU Extension Service.
Q: Could you tell me how to care for a 3-foot-tall Austrian pine potted tree? I would appreciate any help that you can give me. (Eureka, S.D.)
A: Plant it outside at first opportunity! This is an outdoor plant that should thrive in your area, in full sun. In the meantime, keep it outdoors, with the pot or container covered with straw mulch.
Q: Enclosed is a leaf from my streptocarpus plant. About two years ago it started developing what looks like rust on the leaves and has bloomed little since. (Fosston, Minn.)
A: You may be keeping the plant too moist, the humidity too high, or the air is circulating poorly around the plant. Your plant leaves are also undersized, so I am wondering if the plant is in a freely draining pot? It not, then that may be all the change needed.
Is it in bright, but indirect light? Have you reduced watering since winterallowing the soil surface to dry? Is the pot a shallow one, rather than a typical deep one?
These details are important and need to be followed to have continuous blooming with this plant. Also, an afterthought, be sure to remove any seed pods that form after flowering. This saves energy for the plant to use in the next flowering show!
Q: Can you tell me where I can find a source for Ilex verticillatawinter berry poly carpa? I also would like to know if it is hardy in zone 4? (Kerkhoven, Minn.)
A: Well, I didn't have any luck either! Perhaps one of our readers will know of a source. If they do, I'll pass it on to you. By the way, it's hardy to zone 3.
Q: I have seen a shrub/tree called the Rose of Sharon advertised in a number of catalogs. We live in zone 3 (right across from Itasca State Park) and are wondering if this shrub will do well in this area. (e-mail)
A: Nope, sorry! The Rose of Sharon Hibiscus syriacusis hardy to zone 5, which would put it down in the Twin Cities and farther south.
Q: Would you please tell me how to get rid of rhubarb? The couple who had the house before us planted several in a flower bed, which we would like to use for flowers. I've tried mowing them off, but they keep coming back. (Hecla, S.D.)
A: I am always amazed at some of the questions I get! Most people would be happy to have persistent rhubarb! If digging doesn't eliminate it, spray the leaves with Roundup. That should do it!
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Do you have a gardening or houseplant question? Write to Hortiscope, Box 5051, NDSU Extension Service, Fargo, ND 58105 or e-mail to Ron Smith at ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu.
Source: Ron Smith (701) 231-8161 ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor: Dean Hulse (701) 231-6136