NEWS for North Dakotans
Agriculture Communication, North Dakota
State University
7 Morrill Hall, Fargo, ND 58105-5665
February 25, 1999
Hortiscope
Ron Smith, Extension Horticulturist
North Dakota State University
Q: Enclosed is a leaf from what I think is a tree that is growing in my flowerbed. Can you tell me what kind of tree it is? Can Prince Consort black currants from a nursery in Canandaigua, N.Y. be grown here? I would also like to know what causes cabbage to get brown leaves? I planted three junipers in with my apple trees. Will this hurt the apple trees? (Lisbon, N.D.)
A: The leaf looks like it came from a crabapple.
You mention Canadaigua, N.Y. As a teen, I used to go boating and camping therea beautiful spot! But, to grow your desired currant here is not very likely. It is probably a cultivar of Ribes sanguineum, which is hardy only to zone 5.
Concerning the cabbage, it sounds like grey mold, a fungus that commonly develops on stored cabbage. Cabbage needs to be stored cold, but without freezing and at a relative humidity of 98 percent or higher.
Just because you have apples and junipers on your property doesn't mean you'll automatically have cedar-apple rust. I've had the two on my property for the last 13 years with no dire results. Just keep your eyes peeled.
Q: Is there such a thing as seedless tomatoes and cucumbers? (Carpio, N.D.)
A: Your question is a simple one, but the answers are tough. It took some calls to producers, and here is what I found. There are no seedless cultivars of tomatoes or cucumbers out there, but there are nearly seedless ones.
Your best bet probably is to call companies offering these cultivars. Two such firms are Stokes in New York, at 1-800-396-9238, and Tomato Growers in Florida, at 1-888-478-7333.
Q: Can you recommend a good illustrated guide, in color, for North Dakota wildflowers or Minnesota? Also what has happened to that proposal for a botanic garden in the Fargo area? Someone from NDSU initiated this idea last year.
A: How about one of each state? "Wildflowers of North Dakota," by Paul B. Kannowski and "PodsWildflowers and Weeds in their Final Beauty," by Jane Embertson, covers Minnesota.
The Botanic Garden Society has been launched. Contact Chiwon Lee in our department for details. His telephone number is (701) 231-8062.
Q: I have some daffodil and tulip bulbs in my refrigerator and I was wondering when I should start these to hopefully get them to bloom by Easter? (Stratford, S.D., e-mail)
A: Get some stones or peat moss and place them in pots, trying to keep them as cool as possible, and giving them as much light as possible. If you can get the nights down to 55F or lower, this would be best. Enjoy! I'd be surprised if some of them are not already sprouting!
Q: I was told that redwood can be toxic to some plants. Is this true? I am building a planter out of redwood to plant tomato and pepper plants in. Am I wasting my time and effort doing this? (e-mail)
A: As far as I know, the only living things redwood is toxic to are decay fungi. I have seen all kinds of plants growing in redwood or cedar containers, and none of my references caution against using redwood for the purpose you have in mind. So, go for it!
Q: I would like to start an apple tree from an apple. Any suggestions? (e-mail reference)
A: The seed from the apple will likely not produce true to type. Johnny Appleseed simply scattered apple seeds as he traveled around the northern part of the United States, and after going through the winter cold period, they sprouted and grew into the literally hundreds of varieties of apples that we have today.
You can accomplish the same thing by saving the seed from your apples and placing them in a crisper (nonfreezing area) in your refrigerator for about two to three months before planting them. So, if you let them stay cold for 60 to 70 days, that would take us to the last of April when you could sow them. Good germination should be the result, if they're placed in a location where the soil can warm easily from the sun.
Q: I am trying to grow tomatoes inside hoping to have some ready to eat before we can plant them outside. Maybe even have fresh tomatoes year round. My plants grow to the two leaf stage then quit growing. What do I have to do to make them grow? I have a light on them. Is the soil too cool? (Manvel, N.D., e-mail)
A: You are finding out what many who invested much money into growing tomatoes commercially have found outit is not as easy as it looks!
Tomatoes are warm-weather crops. They need heat, and bottom heat is best. You can get some inexpensive heating cables or pads and place them under the plants. This will stimulate growth. Also, make sure the light is of the right spectrum. They need to be plant lights, of the fluorescent type, and kept close to the plantsabout 6 inches or so, no further! Keep the lights on for 14 to 16 hours, and when blooms appear, gently vibrate the tomato vines to aid pollination. Also, let the water set out for a day to warm up to room temperature. Coming directly out of the tap at this time of year is murder on the root system!
You should be able to do it; others have following this procedure. Good luck!
Q: Can you tell me how to get rid of creeping jenny? It is running rampant in my yard, and I was thinking of waiting until fall to treat it with a herbicide, but I'm not sure. (Pierre, S.D.)
A: I certainly would not wait until fall to apply herbicide control, because I guarantee the creeping jenny will flower before then.
Declare war on this deep-rooted weed as soon as active growth is noted in the spring. You will need to use a combination of mechanical controls (hoeing) and chemical. For the mechanical it requires doggedly taking out the new growth from the roots every 14 to 18 days; treatments in your fallow areas with chemicals like Roundup are most effective during peak flowering periods. In the lawn, repeat applications of Confront or Trimec will be needed.
If this weed has been established for a while like it sounds, expect to invest two growing seasons in getting it under control.
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Do you have a gardening or houseplant question? Write to Hortiscope, Box 5051, NDSU Extension Service, Fargo, ND 58105 or e-mail to Ron Smith at ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu.
Source: Ron Smith (701) 231-8161 ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor: Dean Hulse (701) 231-6136