NEWS for North Dakotans
Agriculture Communication, North Dakota
State University
7 Morrill Hall, Fargo, ND 58105-5665
March 11, 1999
Hortiscope
Ron Smith, Extension Horticulturist
North Dakota State University
Q: Enclosed are some leaves from a Schefflera plant that is at least 6-7 feet tall and about 23 years old. At Christmastime I moved it from a well-lit area to another place that wasn't quite as bright. Now it is dropping leaves and looking wilted. Is it going to make it, and did moving it cause it to have trouble? It is starting to show new growth, so I am hoping it will make it. (Mohall, N.D.)
A: You are right. They are fussy about being moved. The fact that it is showing new growth now is encouraging.
If the plant loses too many leaves and takes on the appearance of a freak, you can cut it back and it will generate new growth from dormant buds on the stem.
Since it is about 6-7 feet tall, I'd suggest cutting it back to about 4-5 feetbut only if it drops too many leaves for attractive appearance.
Q: I have a hedge of cotoneasters that I planted several years ago from volunteers I found on my lot. This hedge goes across the back of my property for the purpose of a privacy shield. It borders on the vegetable garden so it gets plenty of water. The problem I am having is that it seems to be plagued with fire blight. I have tried cutting out the affected branches which has helped some but by no means solves the problem. I am also reluctant to spray since it borders on my garden. Should I just start over? I am also wondering if you can still purchase Dakota Gray Turban squash seed. (Crosby, N.D.)
A: I would suggest tearing out the hedge and replacing it with the Tallhedge buckthornRhamnus frangula `Columnaris'. My woody plants book from Alberta, Canada, lists it as a shrub that gets 6-8 feet tall so it should make it in Crosby, N.D.
For the squash seed, try Holland's in Moorhead, Minn., at (218) 233-6131.
Q: Following is information for the reader who had some questions about sweet potatoes. Planting instructions: About one week before planting, mound soil in a row, cover this with black plastic and secure the edges down. Plant out the plants after danger of frost. When planting, cut a slash in the plastic and plant about 18 inches apart. Water the plants when planting and again a couple times in the following days.
You can now ignore them until frost, when it is time to dig them. They need to be laid to dry and cure in the sun and warm temperatures, so I usually dig mine around Sept. 12. When digging, be careful of skinning them as they keep better when they are blemish free.
Before frost, I cut a couple lengths of foliage and plant them in the house. I thus have a nice plant in the house for the winter, and I cut the plant up in the spring and root the pieces in moist soil to plant out again. A tuber that is sprouting can also be put in moist soil to produce cuttings. All the sweet potatoes need are sun and some 80° days. I have grown some that weigh over 3 pounds. (Berlin, N.D.)
A: Wow! Thank you for such good, detailed information about sweet potatoes. I think the largest sweet potato I grew was more like 3 ounces, not 3 pounds.
So, yes, I'll try them again, as the ones purchased in the store just don't measure up. Thanks for writing.
Q: This is in response to the reader who asked about sweet potatoes. A good variety to grow is the Georgia Jet. I start my plants in the house after Christmas, but I would not advise planting them outside until early June. I think you should try planting them again, and I am thinking about trying it commercially. (Fullerton, N.D.)
A: Good hearing from you. Yes, I'll give them a try again to satisfy my own craving for them. Let me know if you try them commercially. Wouldn't it be a kick to have N.D. producing Yankee Sweet Potatoes? Thanks for writing.
Q: A good supplier for sweet potatoes is Gurney's out of South Dakota, (605) 665-1671. Good varieties to try are the Georgia Jet or Jewell. They have given me 2-3 pound sweet potatoes. I think you should try growing one of these varieties and you will have good luck. (Groton, S.D.)
A: Thank you! I read your letter just before lunch and it has my stomach growling. Perhaps I could enjoy some "sweet potato pie" like I used to have when living in Georgia many years ago.
I am going to try them again. They're a good source of antioxidants.
Q: I have a pine tree that was damaged by cattle. They ate all the needles out of the middle, and I am wondering if it will ever fill in again with needles. (Milnor, S.D.)
A: It is very unlikely that any new needle growth will take place. If you simply cut it back to the tier of branches the cattle left alone, one of the branches would eventually turn up and become the new leader, with a crook in it, of course.
Other than this, I would suggest replacing the tree.
Q: I have a poplar tree that always has weeds under it. To eliminate the weeds, I sprayed Pramitol. I was careful to stay at least 10 feet from the base of the tree, but apparently the tree still absorbed some because it defoliated and releafed three times throughout the summer. Do you have any ideas what I can expect next summer? Will it kill the tree, or will it just continue this pattern? (e-mail)
A: What you applied was a soil sterilant over a shallow-rooted tree species. The tree's reaction was the result of some of the material being taken up. What will happen this spring is anybody's guess. My advice is simply to wait and see. Thanks for making e-mail contact.
Q: I have been told that there was a show on PBS on which a gardener was showing how to make organic insecticide and fertilizer. He was using chewing tobacco, soap and beer. I have not been able to locate any information on this. Have you heard about any of this? If you have, I would appreciate any info you could give me. (e-mail)
A: Yes, I have heard of such a mixture, although I did not see the program. Chewing tobacco is a source of nicotine, one of the oldest insecticides known to mankind; the soap is a wetting agent, and the beer, as far as I'm concerned, is a waste. One is better off drinking it. (Just kidding!) Actually, the beer acts as an attractant.
A better one that I have tried is hot pepper spray and garlic, although some would argue that this too is a waste of a good resource, but if it works, why not try it? Get some habanero peppers (Be sure you are wearing plastic gloves.) and liquefy. Add to 2 cups of water, strain and spray. Guaranteed to toast `em! The garlic works pretty much the same way. Get about a dozen garlic cloves, and finely chop them up. Soak them in 1 pint of mineral oil overnight, strain and spray, or dilute with water and add a drop or two of liquid soap.
In both instances, these concoctions are most effective with direct contact on the target insect. Hope this helps.
Q: I would like some information on propagation and transplanting of Juneberries. Also I need some information on how to remove grass from my asparagus bed. Thank you in advance for any information you will send me. (Sheyenne, N.D.)
A: Refer to "Juneberry" (H938), a publication of the NDSU Extension Service.
Judging from your description of the weeds invading your asparagus patch, I think you would be better off digging the entire thing up and resetting it somewhere where the weeds are not as troublesome. While salt water can take out most of the weeds, it is not good for the soil. Even though asparagus can tolerate some salt, its presence will inhibit the normal growth of the plants.
Refer to "Asparagus and Rhubarb" (H61), a publication of the NDSU Extension Service, which should provide you some guidelines. Hope all of this helps.
Q: I have many chokecherries in shelterbelts around the farm. Most of them are the green leaved varieties, but a few around the buildings are the Schubert Canadian Red variety, which are beautiful trees. I notice the green varieties can have black knot, but the Schubert seems to be resistant. Is this true other places, or will they get it too? Is there any spray that would help? I would like to plant some additional Schuberts if they will not die out. (Kensal, N.D., e-mail)
A: Yes, the Schubert chokecherry is susceptible to black knot, as are most Prunus species and cultivars. The first thing you need to do is establish a program of sanitation. By this I mean all existing knots should be cut out of the surrounding trees while they are in the dormant stage, before leafing out takes place.
Then, spray your red-leafed plants with sulfur, captan or any fixed copper fungicide from "green tip" to flower petal drop to provide protection. Be sure to make it a practice to continuously monitor your trees for development of this destructive disease. Judging by the tone of your letter, it sounds as if you are fairly observant about what is going on already.
Q: Please help! I have this houseplant that I don't know the name of, but it is slowly dying. I love houseplants, but they always die four to six months after I bring them home. I water only when the soil is dry, but it doesn't seem to be helping. Please send your expertise because I would love to have a green thumb. (Rockham, S.D.)
A: Your plant appears to be a shamrock, and it looks as if it is suffering from salt burn or rotting roots. Try repotting in a high organic soil and free-draining pot. May your thumb turn green!
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Do you have a gardening or houseplant question? Write to Hortiscope, Box 5051, NDSU Extension Service, Fargo, ND 58105 or e-mail to Ron Smith at ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu.
Source: Ron Smith (701) 231-8161 ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor: Dean Hulse (701) 231-6136