NEWS for North Dakotans
Agriculture Communication, North Dakota
State University
7 Morrill Hall, Fargo, ND 58105-5665
March 25, 1999
Hortiscope
Ron Smith, Extension Horticulturist
North Dakota State University
Q: I remember reading in your column about spraying ash trees that have all the seeds with a weed spray to help cut down on the amount of seeds produced. What exactly is it, when do you spray, and will it hurt the leaves or new buds of the tree? I have three of 15 trees that have so many seeds that this would really help. (Groton, S.D.)
A: I hope you have me mixed up with someone else, or that someone else isn't using my name and giving such advicebecause I know of no such procedure.
This is why clonal or named cultivars are suggested in landscape plantingsto avoid problems such as this! If you think ash seeds are bad you ought to experience Ginkgo Biloba fruit. There was a case in Ohio where a homeowner thought they were getting a male (seedless) tree. It turned out to be femalediscovered years laterwhich dropped rancid smelling fruit all over their patio! Talk about someone being angry!
My only suggestion of this time is to cut down the trees if you find them that offensive. Sorry!
Q: I start my plants under fluorescent lights for 16 hours a day and get very good results. May I get the same results with 12 hours a day? (Dazey, N.D.)
A: I don't know. Give it a try! It all depends on the plant requirement for light. Some need 16 hours, other don't.
It would seem unlikely to me that 12 hours of light would result in equal growth response, compared to 16 hours. However, the result may be good enough!
Q: My plant is getting brown leaves, which are falling off. What am I doing wrong? (Enderlin, N.D.)
A: The leaf you send was simply browndead. It had no evidence of pathogen presence. My best guess is that the rest of the plant looks healthy and normal and this once-in-a-while leaf senescence is nothing more than a perfectly normal aging process. I doubt you are doing anything wrong!
It looks like a leaf from a Chinese evergreen plant.
Q: We have well water without fluoride that is softened with the potassium tablets instead of salt tablets. Could this cause the frond tips on my plants to turn brown? They are in well drained pots. (Walcott, N.D.)
A: Yes, any salt concentrations could cause tip burns. It is most likely coming from the chloride ions, rather than the potassium (assuming KCI is the replacement salt in your softener). I would cut it at least by 50 percent with distilled water or high-quality bottled water.
Q: Do you think that clay pots are better than plastic pots for indoor plants? I just love the look of the terra cotta pots so much better, but I am wondering if I am doing any good for my plants. (e-mail)
A: Concerning clay pots: It is tempting to say that they are better than plastic, but I have never seen a plant grow with any difficulty in either one, as long as there was free drainage. Many people feel the way you do concerning the look of the terra cotta pots, hence their continued success in the marketplace.
Some people like the plastic pots because of their ease in cleaning, lighter weight, and greater color range for interior decorating. The choice is up to the individual.
Q: I heard that blueberries can be grown in my area and I am wondering what kind of blueberries would be best suited for my area. I would also like to know when is the best time to plant blueberries and what type of soil is needed. (Carrington, N.D.)
A: Blueberries in North Dakota? If so, they are growing in very highly modified soil.
Normally, blueberries need an acid soil, high in organic matter, with a pH range of 4.5 to 5.0all of which is literally unheard of in native North Dakota soils. They also are not winter hardy at temperatures below -20 F.
If you make a bed of 50% sphagnum Canadian peat and mulch the plants before winter closes in, then you might be successful. As far as the cultivar selection goes, I would suggest the Northsky out of the University of Minnesota (UMN) breeding program. It is the shortest of the three (Northblue and Northcountry being the other two) and would have the best chance of surviving the brutally cold winters of our region.
Q: I think that the sample I enclosed is from a hibiscus, but I am not sure. What is wrong with it? It was blooming and all of a sudden it dried up like the enclosed branch. (Valley City, N.D.)
A: Your hibiscus is simply entering into a late dormancy from what I can tell. Simply let the plant defoliate and water just enough to keep the plant from drying out.
Cut back hard to about 9 inches around May 1 and begin normal watering, setting it in bright lightincluding some direct sunlight. Fertilize during active growth every two weeks.
Q: Could you tell me what causes cabbage to split? We've tried several different varieties, but they all split. (Mobridge, S.D.)
A: Cabbage heads split because of too much water entering the head through the root system after the heads become solid. As the heads reach full size and become moderately firm, pull up on each plant to break a few rootsthus reducing the inflow of water, and possibly splitting.
The book that should tell you just about everything you'd ever want to know about veggie crop needs is from the Minnesota ExtensionService: "Midwest Vegetable Production Guide" (BU7094-S). Call 1-612-625-8173 and request a copy. I believe the cost is $10.
Q: I am having a problem controlling grass in my asparagus bed and also my raspberry patch. I have been told that asparagus will tolerate salt, but grass will not. Can I sprinkle salt on my asparagus bed without killing the plants? I have also been told that Poast will kill grass but is not harmful to my plants. Can I safely use this on my asparagus and raspberries? (Richville, Minn.)
A: I try to discourage the use of salt. Yes, Poast will work with both species of plants. Be sure to follow label directions.
###
Do you have a gardening or houseplant question? Write to Hortiscope, Box 5051, NDSU Extension Service, Fargo, ND 58105 or e-mail to Ron Smith at ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu.
Source: Ron Smith (701) 231-8161 ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor: Dean Hulse (701) 231-6136