NEWS for North Dakotans
Agriculture Communication, North Dakota State
University
7 Morrill Hall, Fargo, ND 58105-5665
April 1, 1999
Ron Smith, Extension Horticulturist
North Dakota State University
Q: Can you tell me what is wrong with my African violets and my hoya? Please help me. (Hosmer, S.D.)
A: It looks as if your African violets are suffering from a couple of possible maladies: dry air, too much sun, incorrect watering and overfeeding. I must say that those are some of the largest African violet leaves I've ever seen, so I suspect perhaps overfeeding. Starve it a little and see if it blooms for you.
Other than being undersized, I could not detect anything wrong with the hoya. You might try moving it to a location where it would receive more light from the sun.
Q: We had several large snow banks on the east and south side of our home. After the recent thaw, I noticed some funny looking ruts in the lawn. Upon investigating I found that some little critters must have wintered under the snow banks. I moved what looked to be loose grass, and sure enough the grass has been eaten to the roots. They were very neat, keeping their droppings in one area, but I can see considerable damage.
Were these mice? Is there something I should be doing to keep them away? Will the grass grow back? I did have a problem with gophers last summer, but I dropped some pellets in the holes and thought I had cured that problem. It seems the neighbor on the south side and I are the only ones with this problem, but most of it is on my lawn. (Fargo, N.D., e-mail)
A: Those critters are voles, cute little field mice types. They enjoyed your hospitality under the snow and obviously, the grass. The grass will return as the season comes on, not to worry.
As soon as you begin activity outdoors—raking, cleanup, mowing, etc.—the voles, being shy creatures, will move to more sheltered areas or be picked up by predators.
Q: Can you tell me about the purple coneflower? (Ypsilanti, N.D.)
A: The purple coneflower has been around longer than we Americans have been on this continent. Digging it out of the wild destroys native habitat at the current rate it is being carried on.
The reason for the popularity of this beautiful flower is because of its immunostimulant qualities on humans. There are three species currently being studied: Echinacea augustifolia, E. purpurea and E. pallida. The German Commission E (USDA equivalent) has carried on most of the investigative studies to date. NDSU is starting a study this summer on these plants.
Q: I have a Christmas cactus in bud, but part of the plant broke away at the soil. I think I had it too moist. The question is, can I repot it in the hopes it will grow roots? (Lisbon, N.D.)
A: Contrary to your concern, Christmas cactus can be propagated via stem cuttings. Simply take stem sections containing two or three joined segments, allow the ends to dry for three to four hours, then gently push them into a mix high in peat and sand. They should develop roots in about six weeks.
After root development, repot in a standard soil mix cut 50 percent with the peat and sand combination. While the Christmas cactus will take plenty of water when it is growing, it does not tolerate waterlogged soil.
Q: My red currants and gooseberries put on fruit, but then when they start to ripen the berries get worms. What can be done? I am also getting worms in my rutabaga. (Bottineau, N.D.)
A: The currants and gooseberries are being attacked by the currant fruit fly. To control, spray them with Sevin when the blooms are about 80 percent withered and fallen. Repeat in seven to 10 days.
Follow excellent sanitation practices. Clean up all fallen fruit, and cultivate the soil around the plants.
Q: Can you tell me what the enclosed plant is? I think it might be a grapefruit, orange or apple tree, but I am not sure. I planted the seeds in my house last fall with my flowers. I also would like to know why the leaves are curling up. What kind of soil should I be using for it? (Fargo, N.D.)
A: You are growing a citrus of some kind—most likely a grapefruit. The problem is likely the lack of free drainage with the container it is growing in.
Use the soil you can purchase for houseplants. I find the Scotts brand to be the best for my efforts. Also, get a free-flowing container with an attachable saucer. Give the plant as much direct sunlight as possible and summer it outdoors.
Q: I have seen a lot of answers about the hoya plant in your column. Just to let you know my hoya has nine blooms on right now, so it will be in full bloom for Easter. It hangs in a west window in the dining room with a humidifier in the room also. Keep up the good work with your column; I enjoy reading it. (Westport, S.D., e-mail)
A: Thank you for the encouraging words and the news about your beautiful hoya! I bet it is a knockout. With the days getting longer and warmer, we will see a big reduction in the need for as much indoor heating compared to the last four months. This alone will wake-up many indoor plants with renewed growth and possible flowering.
Your vigilance in houseplant care is obviously paying off. You keep up the good work!
Q: What causes a geranium not to bloom? (Carson, N.D., e-mail)
A: Most likely you're referring to a Martha Washington (I wonder how long before they will name a geranium after Martha Stewart?), which are noted for their difficulty to rebloom.
First they need a summer rest period of about six to eight weeks, where the plant is watered only enough to keep the soil from going completely dry. At the end of that period, knock them out of their pots, cut them back and repot with a quality potting soil mixture. You can use the same pot or a new one. Then increase watering to where the potting soil is moistened throughout with each watering, and allow the top half-inch of soil to dry before watering again.
These geraniums need direct light—no less than four hours a day, and summer them outdoors in a sunny location.
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Do you have a gardening or houseplant question? Write to Hortiscope, Box 5051, NDSU Extension Service, Fargo, ND 58105 or e-mail to Ron Smith at ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu .
Source: Ron Smith (701) 231-8161 ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor: Dean Hulse (701) 231-6136