NEWS for North Dakotans
Agriculture Communication, North Dakota State University
7 Morrill Hall, Fargo, ND 58105-5665
September 23, 1999
Ron Smith, Extension Horticulturist
North Dakota State University
Q: Well it seems the slugs don't like cold weather. I collected half a large ice cream pail of them before the weather changed. They would crawl up the outside door and around the frame at night and be on the surface of the grass so I could get them. I cleaned up all of the plants that were close so the sun could hit the soil. Will the slugs be back in the spring? (e-mail)
A: Yes, unfortunately they most likely will, but hopefully not in the same numbers! Continue your ways in thinning plant material, improve drainage, increase sunlight penetration and turn over garden soil in the fall to expose them to possible predators. Do likewise to old boards and stones. Use diatomaceous earth around suspected hideouts and place slug traps around areas where slug damage is noted.
Q: I have five maple shrubs, but only one has the light color veining its leaves. What nutrient is lacking? Is it too late in the season to fertilize? In general I have been using Miracle-Gro. Should I be using something different? (Washburn, N.D.)
A: I doubt that any fertilizer will pull your Amur maple out of its chlorotic funk. Generally, when a tree is stressed, it shows an iron deficiency--which yours is doing. I suspect a root rot problem of some type. Although you will not get any response now, put some chelated iron into the soil around this tree, and hope next spring it can outgrow whatever is ailing it. If the same symptoms appear with the growth next year, get the tree out of there, root and all.
Q: I have two horsechestnut trees that were planted by squirrels. Is this a nice tree to plant in my yard in front of my house? When would be the best time to transplant them? (Lidgerwood, N.D.)
A: They are most likely Ohio Buckeyes, which are in the same genus as horsechestnuts, but are a little hardier. I have found that fall transplantings work best. This species has a fleshy (tap) root and is somewhat difficult to successfully transplant. Wait until the tree is defoliated, and then dig the hole where you want it. Try your best to dig a ball, the same size, around each tree. Tie strips of burlap around and under each ball to help hold it together, and move it carefully to the new site. Be sure to water it quite well. If you're lucky, the moved trees will re-establish in the new site.
Q: I have three 2-year-old volunteer American elm trees that I would like to see continue growing. Does Dutch elm disease affect these trees too? (Montrose, S.D.)
A: Yes, they will likely be vulnerable to Dutch elm disease as well.
Q: I have a prominent weed in my lawn. What is it, and how can it be controlled? (Portland, N.D.)
A: Knotweed! Control it first by correcting the problem that allowed it to get established--compaction. Core aerate and power rake, then overseed (in mid-October) with a quality grass seed. Next spring if any of this stuff sprouts, catch it in the early seedling stage with a broadleaf herbicide.
Q: I received a pink azalea plant, and after it died back, I broke off the dead stems and planted it outside on the north side of my garage. Much to my surprise, it continued to grow! Do I need to bring it in during the winter months? I have been told that they are a short-lived houseplant and probably won't flower again. Is this true? (LaMoure, N.D.)
A: Yes, bring your azalea indoors. You might get lucky and have it flower again for you. If not, simply enjoy it as a leafy houseplant.
Q: We have a large patch of volunteer pumpkins. Last fall we apparently spread the guts
of our Halloween jack-o'-lantern out in the pasture for the birds. As a result, we now
have vines with at least 40 large pumpkins! This is a happy accident, as I have tried many
times to grow pumpkins, and they have never matured. It sounds like we may have frost
tonight. Should we harvest the pumpkins now? Where/how should they be stored?
(e-mail)
A: That is so typical! TRY to grow pumpkins or tomatoes and you get a mediocre yield; allow a few to rot in place, and next year you get a bumper crop!
First frosts seldom cause problems for the fruit but damage the foliage. I would suggest leaving them on for the night unless a hard, long frost is predicted. If that is the case, then I would cover them with a blanket, some sheets or newspaper. The longer they can stay on the vine at this time (without getting overripe, of course), the better they will cure and taste.
Always cure pumpkins and winter squash at warm temperatures--low to mid 80s--with a relative humidity of about 80 percent for 10 days. Don't stack. Following this, store them at lower temperatures, around 50 F, with a reduced humidity.
Q: I read an article about shredding newspaper and adding it to the compost pile. What do you think about the ink matter? How many papers use soy ink? (e-mail)
A: I advise against it. I have no idea which newspapers use soy ink and which don't. If it is a known fact about a particular newspaper, and that is the only source you use, then the shredded paper would be all right, as long as it did not make up the majority of the compost pile.
Q: Is there any way to keep the flowers on my Annabell hydrangeas white longer? And can you tell me why my wild rose is not blooming? (Moorhead, Minn.)
A: As far as I know, there is no way to extend the white color of the Annabell hydrangea, and the wild rose is probably living too good a life. Don't fertilize or water it, and drive a straight-edge spade in the ground in three places around the plant. This severs some roots and may cause it to flower. If none of these work, yank it out!
Q: Can you please tell me what to do with my garden plot that has had tomatoes with black spot or blight. To clean up this fall, can I spray with chlorine bleach? What do you suggest? (Fargo, N.D.)
A: I'm afraid that using bleach would alter the ecosystem too much. You're likely to get a rebound of something much worse! Instead, clean the area up physically as best you can, turn the soil over before winter if time permits, be sure to rotate your crops and select varieties that are disease resistant.
Q: I have a beautiful poinsettia plant that I transplanted to my garden this spring. It looks great now, but I am wondering how I can bring it back in the house. Will it bloom for Christmas? Also, do gladiolas have to be lifted in the fall? (Wahpeton, N.D.)
A: Basically, cut your poinsettia back to the height you want, bring it inside and give it long nights. And yes, lift the glads after a frost has blackened them.
Q: Can you tell me how to care for my cyclamen plant? It blooms beautifully, but the leaves turn under at the edges. I also try to keep the soil moist and away from direct sunlight about 3 feet. (Jamestown, N.D.)
A: You have presented a problem that I've never seen before! Cyclamen mites don't appear to be the problem, so I can only speculate. Cyclamen like to be watered via pot immersion, preferably with distilled water or rain water. They need cool conditions, 50 F to 60 F. They should be allowed to dry down after flowering. And they are sensitive to dry air and strong, bright light.
Q: In the past few years there have been little green berries that look like tomatoes in clusters on the top of my potato plants. What causes these berries, and what are they called? Also, if I bring in my tuberous begonia this fall will it continue to bloom or does it need to rest? And finally, is it beneficial to give peonies bone meal in the fall, or do you recommend waiting until spring? (Tuttle, N.D.)
A: Those berries at the top of the potato plant are actually the fruit of the potato--but non-edible so don't eat any. Yes, your tuberous begonia can give you many more weeks of blooming beauty. Bring it in. And bone meal applied in the fall would be available to the peony by next spring.
###
Do you have a gardening or houseplant question? Write to Hortiscope, Box 5051, NDSU Extension Service, Fargo, ND 58105 or e-mail to Ron Smith at ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu .
Source: Ron Smith (701) 231-8161
ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor: Dean Hulse (701) 231-6136