NEWS for North Dakotans
Agriculture Communication, North Dakota State University
7 Morrill Hall, Fargo, ND 58105-5665
November 10, 1999
Ron Smith, Extension Horticulturist
North Dakota State University
Q: The tips of the leaves on one of my houseplants always turn brown, and I am not sure why. (Stanley, N.D.)
A: A number of factors could be causing the brown tips. One often is the fluoride, either in the water or potting soil which can contain amendments such as perlite or vermiculite. It could also be the result of a salt buildup, a cold draft or too much sunlight at once. My best guess is that it is either a fluoride burn or minor soil toxicity.
Q: I would like to grow a natural wall using North Privet or American Arborvitae. Would either of these grow well in Fargo? I would like them to be about 5 feet tall within five to six years. I am planning to purchase them from the Arbor Day Foundation and am assuming they will be 1 foot to 2 feet tall at the time of purchase.
Also, I planted gladiolas and dahlias in my garden. How can I save these bulbs over the winter? Will they survive in an insulated cooler between dry peat moss in the garage? (Fargo, N.D., e-mail)
A: Both the privet and arborvitae cultivars would likely do well in Fargo. If you are getting them from the National Arbor Day Foundation, they are likely not going to be 2 feet in height, more like about 1 foot high. But once established, either should grow quickly.
The dahlias would likely make it insulated in your garage, but I'm not sure of the glads. You might be better off keeping them dry in a 55 F location. Dust them with sulfur powder to keep diseases and insects from getting to them.
Q: Can you give me some information on how to care for my bougainvillea? (LaMoure, N.D., e-mail)
A: Bougainvilleas are difficult to care for under normal room conditions. They need a sunny windowsill and should be kept cool through the winter. Give it a good pruning at this time, and reduce watering. As spring arrives, increase the watering and heat to stimulate growth and blooming. If it ever needs repotting, do so in the spring before new growth begins.
Q: I have a problem with slugs in my garden and have had for years. I have perennials around the edge of my garden so tilling is impossible. I purchased some Ferti-Lome that is supposed to get rid of slugs. It is a thick liquid that is to be applied every 3 to 4 inches around the areas affected. It is supposed to be centered to attract the slugs and poison them. Can you tell me if you think this will work? (Harvey, N.D.)
A: I am familiar with the product. It works quite well, as do many others.
But first, I might try to "cure" or correct the problems as much as possible via organic methods before resorting to chemical poisons. This strategy involves removing the plant debris in the fall, raking off mulch material, picking up old boards, stones or anything these critters can crawl under. Next, turn over the garden soil where you can without damaging your perennials. The reason for tilling, or spading, is to disrupt any slugs that may have nestled in for the winter. This exposes them to the elements as well as possible predators.
Next spring, plan a diverse ecosystem garden. Mix up the species: tomatoes and cabbage, carrots and lettuce, etc. Try to space the plants a little farther apart than usual to compensate for a wet spell next summer. If you have a source of wood ashes, sprinkle it around the garden next spring after planting. On plants that are targets, spread diatomaceous earth or egg shells around the plants. My organic sources indicate that wormwood tea used as a soil drench will also control slugs. You also must know of the old trick calling for shallow containers of beer during the growing season to attract and drown slugs.
###
Do you have a gardening or houseplant question? Write to Hortiscope, Box 5051, NDSU Extension Service, Fargo, ND 58105 or e-mail to Ron Smith at ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu .
Source: Ron Smith (701) 231-8161
ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor: Dean Hulse (701) 231-6136