NEWS for North Dakotans
Agriculture Communication, North Dakota State University
7 Morrill Hall, Fargo, ND 58105-5665
November 24, 1999
Ron Smith, Extension Horticulturist
North Dakota State University
Q: I received a beautiful hibiscus plant, but I know nothing about caring for it. The instructions say to not over water and fertilize occasionally. What kind of fertilizer? Also, I was told that it could be set outside in the summer. Is this true? Can I just put the pot outside and should it be in full sun or partial? (Walcott, N.D.)
A: A hibiscus is a very attractive plant indeed, and Hawaii's state flower! During the winter months keep your hibiscus indoors in a location that will allow for at least some direct sunlight. Because it's in its resting period, it enjoys temps on the cool side, about 55 F (though mine is doing quite well at 65 F to 70 F). Do not fertilize it until next spring, and water it only enough during the winter to keep the soil from drying out.
In the spring, cut the branches back to within 6 inches from the base and repot the plant in a larger container, depending on its size, so that its roots don't become container bound. Fertilize it (Miracle-Gro should work fine) according to the manufacturer's recommended rate, and move it outside. For convenience sake, you can just leave it in the container. Because it is of tropical origin, a hibiscus likes warmth and sun in the summer, and it will respond to fertilizer applications.
Q: I planted a "hardy" nectarine this spring and it did beautifully. It grew branches 16 inches long with 4-inch leaves. How can I protect it this winter? How about a sewer pipe with a 6-inch diameter closed at the top and braced to keep it from blowing over?
Also, I have a fig plant, which spends the summers outdoors and winters inside, that has stopped bearing. It used to produce small figs that fell off. What's wrong? (Burlington, N.D.)
A: An open sewer pipe is what you want, not a closed one. You can keep it from blowing away by driving rebars inside first, then around the outside, allowing them to extend about a foot above the soil; or, simply stake the sewer pipe as you would a tree--three stakes and twine. That also will hold it in place. I am afraid of root damage if the pipe is driven into the soil too far.
The fig simply needs to build up more carbohydrate reserves before it will bear again. Just have patience.
Q: I am having trouble with my fern and spider plant leaves turning yellow. I read in the paper that I should only be watering my fern once a month, but I don't think that is often enough. Also, I am wondering if it is safe to repot these plants. I really do not want them to die on me. (Carrington, N.D.)
A: If what you sent me in the mail represents the state of your fern, it isn't long for this world anyway! So go ahead and pot it up, along with your spider plant.
I have never heard of a fern needing water only once a month. Perhaps it was a misprint. Moving it to a cooler location may help it out too!
Q: How do you recommend storing carrots and parsnips over winter? (Velva, N.D.)
A: The best advice with our modern houses is to leave them in the ground. Mulch them just before snow arrives with plenty of straw. When you need a carrot or parsnip or two, brush the snow and mulch back and harvest what you need. People have been successful at keeping root crops well into January with a good mulch and snow cover.
Q: I recently discovered that my young aspen was damaged. What should we do to protect the tree now that the damage is done? ( Garretson, S.D.)
A: Keep the damaged area of your aspen wrapped and dry through the winter. Next spring you should see some callus tissue starting to "roll-over" the wounded areas, to begin healing.
Q: We have a plant that volunteers to grow around here. My mother used to call it a wild cucumber. Recently someone said it was hops. It is a vining plant and very persistent, growing in a gravel driveway, unused spots of land or lawns. Can you tell me what it is, and will Roundup take care of it?
Also, there is appearing on some trees here a "tent." I assume it is an insect of some kind. Most are on the poplar trees, whereby this winter I could torch off most of them. Any idea of what they might be? (Forman, N.D.)
A: Your mother was right. It is wild cucumber, and Roundup will take care of it.
The "tents" you are seeing are fall webworms. They can be controlled with a dormant oil spray next spring, prior to leaf-out. Any that re-invade can be controlled with a bacterial insecticide known as Bacillus thuringiensis, or "Bt."
Q: Can you help me to identify an insect? They seem to be damaging the early blossoms of my lilies, dahlias, hollyhock and several others, causing them not to blossom at all. I found some newly hatched insects. They were a dark-brown, crawling mass, but they did not consume the leaf on which they had been laid. The adult insect seems to be about an inch long, a red-gold-brown color, and the body is in three sections. The bugs buzz quite noticeably, but they have not actually tried to sting me. Please help me to identify these, and how can I get rid of them? (e-mail reference)
A: Your description of the insect indicates to me that it may be a sawfly, as they hatch in masses like you describe. Sevin is labeled for their use. This has a very low mammalian toxicity, so it is relatively safe. You can also spray your deciduous plants next spring before leaf-out with dormant oil to kill any overwintering eggs.
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Do you have a gardening or houseplant question? Write to Hortiscope, Box 5051, NDSU Extension Service, Fargo, ND 58105 or e-mail to Ron Smith at ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu .
Source: Ron Smith (701) 231-8161
ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor: Dean Hulse (701) 231-6136