NEWS for North Dakotans
Agriculture Communication, North Dakota State University
7 Morrill Hall, Fargo, ND 58105-5665
December 16, 1999
Ron Smith, Extension Horticulturist
North Dakota State University
Q: I've just started gardening for the last three years, and I've searched our libraries, spent a fortune in books, made notes etc., but sometimes I can't find an answer to a specific question. I'm in Pennsylvania, zone 4 to 5-ish, and I have a beautiful hydrangea bush (nikko blue) that I love. I really want it to survive the winter, how do I get it ready?
And while I have your "ear" ... I've tried identifying a bush but haven't had any success. The structure of the plant is similar to a forsythia, the stem is green/brown in the summer and red in the winter, the leaf is variegated, not waxy, almost papery feeling. It does flower (briefly), a very tiny cluster of flowers that are vaguely similar to a Queen Anne's Lace flower. Any ideas? I need to figure out how to prune this bush and how to take care of it. Oh, yeah, and its name would help too! (Pennsylvania e-mail)
A: The zone you are in should not require any special treatment for winter. However, if you want to play it safe, mulch the crown with straw mulch 4 to 6 inches thick. Prune back hard in early spring prior to new growth starting!
The plant you are talking about is likely the variegated leaf dogwood--Cornus alba Aurea is the likely botanical name. Simply cut the oldest canes at the base each year to stimulate new, red-twig growth.
Q: I wrote you last year about an azalea I had that came back into bloom for me. That was around Christmas time and it bloomed up until I set it in the ground in July. I brought it back in before frost and it set buds right away and is blooming very well again. It only has four to six flowers at any one time, but they are much larger this winter due to fertilizing and repotting I guess. I have a new one purchased last Christmas and handled the same way and will let you know if it starts re-blooming. So far, only foliage. (e-mail)
A: Congratulations! It take quite a green thumb and patience to get an azalea to re-bloom in North Dakota. Keep up the good work!
Q: I have several bromeliads that were given to me after they had bloomed several years ago. One is growing really well but doesn't bloom. I've tried the technique of putting the plant inside a closed plastic bag with a cut apple. The apple spoils but that didn't help. I'd love to see it bloom after all my years of caring for it. (McClusky, N.D.)
A: With bromeliads another ingredient is necessary--patience. Try the apple-and-plant-in-a-plastic-bag again. Normally, they bloom from one to six months after the plant has been removed from the bag. Keep the apple/plant-and-bag combo in contact for no more than four to five days. Be sure the plant is getting bright, indirect light. Never give up!
Q: I purchased a Norfolk pine tree for my Christmas tree and really enjoy it. I would also like to enjoy it for a long time. Do I have to trim it? Is the north light okay or should it have sunlight? Do I mist it? Can I put it outside in the spring after frost danger? What location? Keep it in pot or ground soil? (Minot, N.D.)
A: Norfolk Island Pines enjoy being left alone once they have been properly located. Except for watering and misting of the foliage in the winter, they should never be pruned or placed in direct sunlight. Never place them in front of a forced air heating vent. Try to find a nice, cool location (north window is fine) with as much natural light as possible. Re-pot every four or five years.
Q: I have been given a large hibiscus plant that summered outdoors. I've since brought it indoors--only to discover that it had small white aphids on the leaves that fly when a leaf is disturbed. Over the course of eight weeks, I washed it with a garden hose and nozzle, sprayed it with Sevin and Malathion, cut the plant back to 6 inches and re-sprayed, and changed the top soil--only to have the aphids re-appear.
My last attempt was to put the plant in a garbage bag and use a Raid concentrated fogger. After 10 days, I'm not seeing any bugs. Was my spray not effective or can it be reinfected from the carpet under the plant? (Mitchell, S.D.)
A: A classical case of pesticide resistance! The whitefly species has been attacked by a host of insecticides ever since they and mankind had a difference of opinion of where they should live! You are to be congratulated for winning this battle with them. To keep re-infestation from taking place, check any other plants you may bring into your home very carefully for similar critters. Isolate new arrivals for about a week before moving them close to your hibiscus.
Q: What kind of results would I get using seed from hybrid flowers? (Dazey, N.D.)
A: Mixed: a range of colors, sizes and shapes.
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Do you have a gardening or houseplant question? Write to Hortiscope, Box 5051, NDSU Extension Service, Fargo, ND 58105 or e-mail to Ron Smith at ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu .
Source: Ron Smith (701) 231-8161
ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor: Dean Hulse (701) 231-6136