NEWS for North Dakotans
Agriculture Communication, North Dakota State University
7 Morrill Hall, Fargo, ND 58105-5665
June 1, 2000
Ron Smith, Extension Horticulturist
North Dakota State University
Q: I remember someone talking about how a person can grow baby corn on the cob. My husband and I have been having a discussion about this. I think I remember that they are just immature regular corn with the silk removed. He thinks that there has to be a dwarf corn plant that produces more than one ear per plant. I would like to try growing baby corn ears. Do you have any suggestions? Can you tell me how to go about it? (Grand Forks, N.D., e-mail)
A: Simply plant your corn and harvest it before it silks. To keep it from becoming fertilized, you can remove the tassel, which is the source of the pollen. Then simply harvest the sweet, edible, small cobs that develop. Couldn't be easier. Enjoy!
Q: It seems the entire top part of my hedge roses are dead. Should I cut them way down? I think there would only be the base of the plant left. Would that be OK? (Harwood, N.D., e-mail)
A: Cut them all the way down and see what comes up, if anything. If they are alive, this will not make any difference, and come to think of it, it won't make any difference if they are dead! So you really have nothing to lose!
Q: I was wondering when I could plant snow on the mountain. I would also like some basic information about caring for this shrub. (Amidon, N.D., e-mail)
A: Snow on the mountain--Euphorbia marginata--is an annual that often self-seeds. It gets about 2 feet tall and likes well-drained soil and full sun. The plant has a milky sap that is common to this genera, hence handling of the plant may cause a dermic reaction. Snow on the mountain does not transplant well, so seed should be sown where the plant is intended to be.
The major value of the plant is the variegated leaves, which act as a foil or background for brighter-colored plants. It also is a good xeric plant, being able to stand high temperatures and extended periods without water.
Q: I have a zillion dandelions and am wondering what is the best spray for them. I have used 2,4-D, but it seems they enjoy the bath in that. Can you give me an idea as to what to use? (Tappen, N.D., e-mail)
A: There are other products that can take care of dandelions, such as Trimec, for instance. This is a potent broadleaf weed herbicide that will take care of the dandelions and others in your lawn. Fall application is best, as most of the seed that will be cast in the spring will be distributed all over, with new seedlings coming up during the summer. They, along with their mother plants (the ones you see now in the spring), will be most vulnerable to the herbicide at that time.
Q: I am looking for more information on starting a juneberry plantation on some land north of Bismarck along the Missouri River. I currently have a few acres of wild juneberries along the edge of an old field and have thought of trying to put in a 10-acre field of cultivars. I was wondering if you know of a U.S. source for juneberry cultivar suckers. Also are there any juneberry farms in existence in North Dakota? Is there a specific cultivar that does better in North Dakota? (Bismarck, N.D., e-mail)
A: There is a North Dakota grower and distributor in Velva who I know would be happy to talk with you concerning development of a juneberry plantation. His name is Dan Kelner and he runs The Juneberry Patch. Contact him during business hours at (701) 338-2065.
Q: When is the best time to prune deciduous trees and shrubs? (e-mail)
A: All pruning of deciduous trees and shrubs is best done in the early spring when they are still dormant. The pruning down to the ground of lilacs and other shrubs also is best done when they are dormant. Selective pruning of trees can be done any time that it is necessary, but if the pruning is just for aesthetics, then wait until next year and do it when they are still dormant.
Q: Can I use Roundup to control the raspberry shoots? I want to keep the raspberries in rows, not a bramble patch. (anonymous)
A: Roundup is translocated throughout the plant's vascular system. While the part you would be spraying is admittedly small and wouldn't likely kill the parent plant initially, continued use would eventually weaken and kill the plants. The best way to control the spread of raspberries is through annual tilling to keep them in rows.
Q: I planted four silver maple trees from the same group at the nursery a year ago this spring. This year when they leaved out, three got nice green leaves, but one has reddish, rust-colored leaves. Is something wrong with the one tree? (Wing, N.D.)
A: It's probably just different genetic variations existing amongst the individuals of the species. If that one does keep its red leaves, let me know. It may be something we could clone and introduce to the public!
Q: My husband jokingly calls the grass in our yard "buffalo grass," and a neighbor tells us the yard was a weed patch before we moved here. This "grass" is very thick and hard to mow, and it turns brown after mowing. Is there anything we can do short of digging up the yard and reseeding? (Garrison, N.D.)
A: First, make sure your mower blades are sharp. And second, I believe it is nimblewill--Muhlenbergia schreberi--a delicate perennial that is broadly adapted to various sites but especially thrives in moist, shady locations. Spray it with Roundup, wait seven to10 days and then scalp-mow and overseed with a desirable cool-season mixture.
Q: I have two green spruce trees that are dying from the bottom up. The needles turn rusty-brown, dry up and fall off. Is there anything we can do to save these trees? (Fargo, N.D.)
A: Sounds like it could be needlecast, a fungus disease common to spruce. You might want to try spraying with Bravo in June and July to arrest the spread of the disease.
Q: I have had two Christmas cacti and both have been doing really well, until lately. Someone told me that I have been watering too much so I cut back, but the cacti still have not improved. What is wrong with them? (McIntosh, Minn.)
A: Most likely, the overwatering (a common problem) caused some root rot or vascular disease to develop. Once either one is established the plants are history. Sorry for the bad news. Start over with new plants, and the next time you get the urge to water, wait at least another day.
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Do you have a gardening or houseplant question? Write to Hortiscope, Box 5051, NDSU Extension Service, Fargo, ND 58105 or e-mail to Ron Smith at ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu.
Source: Ron Smith (701) 231-8161
ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor: Dean Hulse (701) 231-6136