NEWS for North Dakotans
Agriculture Communication, North Dakota State University
7 Morrill Hall, Fargo, ND 58105-5665
July 6, 2000
Ron Smith, Extension Horticulturist
North Dakota State University
Q: I had a lilac that was 10 years old, and last fall the leaves started dying. This spring it was dead and the branches were cracked all the way to the ground. I didn’t think it was possible to kill a lilac, but I have. What do you think was the problem? Also, the leaves on my crab apple started yellowing and rusting and then fell off. I sprayed it with sulfur but that hasn’t helped. Is it worth saving? Could I plant another crab a few feet from this one if it was removed? (Kerkhoven, Minn.)
A: I admit that I have not heard of too many lilacs getting wiped out. Downy mildew perhaps? Borers? A combination? I don’t know. But do get rid of the present crab apple and plant another resistant one to scab.
Q: I have a horsechestnut tree that drops many pods in the fall. I would like to start some for spring planting. What is the procedure? (Jamestown, N.D.)
A: First, your tree is not a horsechestnut but rather an Ohio buckeye--similar, but vastly different in size. Simply plant the seed (nut) in the fall where you want the tree to grow. Your biggest enemy will be squirrels. They are great at finding what you plant, so cover the seeds with hardware cloth until germination occurs.
Q: We have a group of four red oaks ranging from 6 to 9 inches in diameter. Two have only about 10 percent of their leaves and the other two about 30 percent. The trees are in a low area and are not starved for moisture. We have many maple trees and a twin red oak up on higher ground that show no signs of trouble. Also, I have not noticed any sign of worms. What might be the problem? (Detroit Lakes, Minn.)
A: Most likely a change in the water table. Oaks do not like continuously moist root zone conditions, and will respond exactly the way you describe when that situation occurs. You need to find some way to lower the water table to get them to survive.
Q: I have an answer to the person who asked about stopping birds from eating their chokecherries: Spray the trees with grape flavored Kool-Aid. I used six packets to a gallon of water, and sprayed when the berries were nearly ripe. It sounds crazy, but it works! (Mobridge, S.D.)
A: Wow! Grape flavored Kool-Aid will do it? Do the birds know something we should learn? Thanks for the suggestion. It sure is an easy one to try!
Q: I’ve had this fern for 15 years and have transplanted it once. The leaves are about 2 to 3 feet long and the fern itself goes halfway up to the ceiling. It is truly beautiful, but it is getting brown spots on it and also looks like it is drying up. I keep it moist, out of the sun, and fertilize once a month. What am I doing wrong? (Jamestown, N.D.)
A: I would suggest repotting in a free-flowing container and watering with distilled water for about a month without fertilization to see if the plant begins to recover. Assuming it does, then fertilize biweekly while it is showing active growth.
Q: My spruce trees, which were planted as seedlings in 1992, are doing fine. Can they be fertilized this year? If so, should I use Mir-acid or Miracle Grow? Also, I planted a mixture of Buffalo grass and Bad river blue gramma between the rows. Wormwood and some other weeds are showing up. Can this grass mixture be fertilized? If so, is it safe to use weed and feed? What brand do you recommend? (Wing, N.D.)
A: If your trees are not showing any deficiency symptoms, leave well enough alone. Generally they get along fine with the normal nutrient reserves in our soil.
And yes, the grass mixture can be fertilized--but not with weed and feed. Using that will be ineffective on the wormwood, and could possibly damage the trees. I suggest a fertilizer application on the grass stand, followed by spot treatments on the wormwood with Trimec. This takes care of most broadleaf weeds.
Q: I have a prayer plant that had little white flowers with blue centers. Should I clip off the end of the stem? The flowers have fallen off and the tip of the stem feels dry, but when I checked the soil it was moist. What should I do? (Carrington, N.D.)
A: Your prayer plant should come back OK. It is unusual for them to flower in this manner in a household situation, so consider yourself blessed with good fortune. And one more point: Moist soil, yes; but wet, no. Be sure to know the difference as soil that is kept continuously wet will be anaerobic (lacking oxygen), which will at least stress the plant and may eventually kill it.
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Do you have a gardening or houseplant question? Write to Hortiscope, Box 5051, NDSU Extension Service, Fargo, ND 58105 or e-mail to Ron Smith at ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu.
Source: Ron Smith (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor: Dean Hulse (701) 231-6136