March 8, 2001

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: I have an ant problem. This will be the fourth year, and their hills are growing in number. The first two years I just let them be. Last summer I sprayed Diazonon twice and Tempo once. Neither worked. The hills can be seen above the grass line, so the ants are very active and getting more numerous. What do you suggest that I treat them with? (Wolverton, Minn.)

A: Try boric acid. It is a proven stomach poison for ants and roaches. Mix some with foods they find attractive -- sugary or high-protein. Or, you can use commercial preparations, like Drax or others.

Q: I have a Christmas cactus that looks like it is dying. It blossomed at Christmas time and usually again around Easter. It is quite old. Can it be revived? What is causing it to droop? It is in a south window and has been doing quite well there until now. What can I do for it? (Wheaton, Minn.)

A: I would suggest taking some cuttings from the healthiest looking part of the plant and rooting them in a sand/peat mix - equal volumes of each. Without a thorough examination of your plant, I can’t tell what is causing the decline. Human tendency is to over-water, which is the single greatest killer of houseplants.

Q: I’ve had a garden in my back yard now for 57 years. Each year I plant everything in a different place, onions, tomatoes, etc. Every year the onions get worms in them, and it doesn’t seem to matter where in the garden I plant them. (Barnesville, Minn.)

A: It sounds like you are being plagued by onion maggots. You can increase spacing between the onions which, will help limit their damage, and/or you can sprinkle diazinon in the furrow when planting.

Q: Could you advise me on what kind of Kentucky bluegrass seed to use in this area? I know there are hundreds of different kinds. Should a person use two types of Kentucky bluegrass in a blend mix? (E-mail reference, Bismarck, N.D.)

A: You are right, there are hundreds of Kentucky bluegrass cultivars that can be used, and the ones you select should be based on what you want and the kind of maintenance you are intending to commit to. If you are not going to have an automatic irrigation system, then I would recommend the cultivars 'Kenblue', 'South Dakota Certified', 'Park', 'Ram I', and 'Fylking'. For irrigated areas I would suggest one of the elite varieties, such as 'Touchdown', 'Glade', 'A-34', 'Adelphi', 'Baron', 'Cynthia', 'Parade'. Generally, two or three cultivars are blended for genetic diversity within the species. If there is any shade from maturing shade trees, you are best to include a shade tolerant variety as well, like a creeping red fescue, making up about 30 to 35 percent of the mixture. The fescue will also do well in the sun, but the Kentucky bluegrass will out-compete it there; in the shade, the fescue will have the upper hand as far as competition goes.

Q: A friend has a great apple tree in her front yard, an excellent producer with great tasting red apples. My miniature Dexter cows just love those apples, so I wanted to get some started. I planted some in a starter tray with no luck. At the same time I stratified some by putting some seeds on a damp paper towel, tight sealed the container, put them in the refrigerator and forgot about them for about two months. To my surprise a few had sprouted, so I planted some in a starter tray and some are nearly 4 inches tall. I planted some more seeds that had sprouted later in Jiffy peat trays, and they’re coming up now. What would be my next steps to insure their well being? I've enclosed a picture in hopes that you could identify the species these trees are. Any information will be greatly appreciated. (E-mail reference, Jamestown, N.D.)

A: Your apple seedling looks terrific. But all apple seedlings look alike, so it is impossible to tell what variety it is. The apple species is one of the most genetically prolific plant species that we work with in horticulture, as witnessed by all of the different varieties that are available. Your trees will have to go through a hardening off process this spring. Move them outdoors gradually when the weather is balmy -- 30 to 45 minutes the first day, gradually increasing the time each day until they can take the North Dakota weather conditions. When they are sufficiently hardened, plant them carefully in their permanent location, taking into account their eventual mature size. Be sure to get the apples yourself, in five or six years, before your cows do!

Q: My question concerns my "Wave" petunia. I rooted a cutting, which I am growing in a south window. It has started blooming, but not as well as it did outside. I expected this. I planned to root several cuttings to plant this summer, but after reading about letting plants go dormant when you're wintering them over, I wonder if my petunia needs a dormant period. (E-mail reference, Bismarck, N.D.)

A: No, you need not worry about making your petunia go dormant. It will continue to grow as long as it gets light, moisture, and nutrients, along with a decent temperature. Just plant it outside this spring, after hardening it off, and let it take off. It will reward you well, for the TLC you have given it!

Q: How can potting soil produce the weed mallow, and can you give me more information on this weed? (E-mail reference)

A: Ah, the pervasiveness of weeds! A seed can get in anywhere as a contaminant, which it obviously has done in your case. As far as weeds go, the mallow is not too bad. It actually has a nice flower, for a weed. It is not invasive, and I know of no allergic reactions to it. Potting soil companies usually pasteurize their soil, or use non-soil components to avoid weed seed, insect, and disease problems. In this case, this weed seed survived, and is responding to the TLC you are providing.

Q: We are in southeastern South Dakota and I, as well as many other residents in the area, have had extensive browning (I believe winterkill) on the northwest side of Austrian, Scotch, lodgepole and white pine. I know that these needles are dead and will not be replaced, but in the cases where the entire tree is brown, is it a goner or are the growing tips still alive and will they take off again this spring? Some of the trees are large, over 20 feet, and some are small, approximately 4 feet. The smaller trees were watered well into the fall but no anti-desiccant was applied. The Ponderosa pines appear to have suffered no damage. (E-mail reference, Mount Vernon, S.D.)

A: I wouldn't write the pines off just yet. I have seen entire mountain sides looking like every pine there was a goner, to come back through in May or June to find them all green again.

Winter desiccation does take it's toll on the open needles, but the buds are usually well protected by sturdy scales, and the new growth will usually emerge fully green. My advice: wait until the first of June, and if the new growth has not emerged at that time, those trees are history and can be removed. I think you'll be all right in most instances, as the trees have seen some pretty rough weather in the 20 years they have been there and have survived.

Q: In the last six months I have purchased four different brands of "ready-to-use" potting soil, where nothing had to be added before transplanting plants. The end result in all four cases of transplanting household plants has been fungus gnats infesting the plants, and subsequently the office where I work and my home. All four brands were infested with these bugs. In at least one case, five months later, I am still battling these pesky bugs at the office. I no longer plan to buy these "ready-to-use" products. I would prefer to make my own mixture, if this minimizes the risk of these small bugs causing such a huge nuisance. What are your suggestions for "homemade" potting soil mixtures for houseplants? I would like a recipe that works for most household plants, if you have one. Can you tell me if there is still a risk, in mixing various soil products for houseplants that still would result in these pesky bugs appearing? Does any product come sterilized so this won't happen? (E-mail reference, Jamestown, N.D.)

A: I'm sorry to hear that you have had the fungus gnat problem! I have used Miracle-Gro and Hyponex potting soil in the past with no problems. Here is what I suggest: purchase one of the commercial blends, then "bake" it in the oven for 30 minutes at 180 degrees. That will kill anything in there. Be sure the soil is moist before baking for maximum heat penetration. Once cooled, you will then have an excellent potting soil. This is far easier than trying to put the components together yourself and still having to bake the whole thing to make sure it is "clean."

Q: There are strange looking piles of red globs in about eight places in my garden under and around bushes. At first I thought the dog had thrown up, but that’s not it. It is really gross and I don't have a clue. (E-mail reference)

A: Yes, that is a saprophytic fungus, one that grows on the organic matter (bark mulch, compost, peat moss, etc.) in the soil. It is not a parasite to plants, it just looks gross, like you say. Don't worry, it will not continue to grow and take over your garden. They will usually disappear with drier weather or a little surface cultivation as the season wears on.

Q: I have questions about a Gardenia bush I am interested in purchasing. I have been told that they are fussy and hard to grow. I read in a magazine that they can grow into large indoor trees that you limb and clip to keep shaped. It also stated that they are fragrant. Do they bloom all year or are the leaves fragrant? I am wondering if I should spend the money on the bush and give it a try. Please tell me if you think I have any chance of keeping it alive and how long it would take to grow into a small tree. (E-mail reference, Enderlin, N.D.)

A: Keep the gardenia in your dreams only. They don't respond well to indoor environments in our part of the country, and are best only in the hands of professionals who specialize in growing them. The gardenia flower is extremely fragrant! One flower can odorize a room, but they don't last long, which is frustrating. If you lived in the southeastern U.S., I would say give it a shot, but even there chances of success are not much better than 50-50.

Q: What determines what height an amaryllis stem will grow to before it blooms? (E-mail reference, Philadelphia, P.A.)

A: They typically grow 18 to 24 inches, or more in some cases, so you want to locate it on a table where it will have room to stretch to that height. Once open, they are fantastically beautiful! I just wish they would last a little longer.

 

Do you have a gardening or houseplant question? Write to Hortiscope, Box 5051, NDSU Extension Service, Fargo, ND 58105 or e-mail to Ron Smith at ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu. Note to e-mail correspondents: please identify your location (city and state) for most accurate recommendations.

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Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor: Gary Moran, (701) 231-7865, gmoran@ndsuext.nodak.edu