October 18, 2001

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: I am looking for information on moving some wild chokecherries and June berries into my yard. Do you have any publications that would advise me on procedure? For example, can they be mixed in the same bed or line of plants? (Sheyenne, N.D.)

A: I don't have any publications pertaining to that procedure in particular, but I will send a couple of related publications since you gave me your mailing address. There’s no reason the two can't share the same bed. The chokecherries will tend to sucker quite a bit. If that doesn't bother you, no big deal. If it does, think it over before moving any into your yard.

Q: Would you be able to maybe tell me the name of the purple spiky flowers in the flower garden right north of the IACC building at NDSU? The plants are medium sized and the flower spikes are about 4-6 inches tall. They were full of some type of butterflies. (Fargo, N.D.)

A: Those butterfly-attracting flowers are annuals known as Salvia farinacea, or mealy cup sage. They are as easy as sin to grow and virtually disease free, so plan on getting some next spring and enjoy!

Q: Is there a branch and leaf gall that bothers Miss Kim lilac? The leaves are curling in from side to side and I find a strange tan colored protrusion on the stem and sometimes on the backs of leaves. Is it normal for lilac to have a bumpy protrusion on the stem or are these some type of gall? (Cando, N.D.)

A: It could be scale insects getting started. Can you send me a sample?

Q: I am a first time tomato gardener(in a pot). The first tomatoes grew nicely and the last bunch were very small, just a little larger than cherry tomato size. Is this common? Also, how do I know when the plant will stop producing fruit? When that happens does it mean I throw the plant out, or does it come back next year? (E-mail reference, Dallas, Texas)

A: Your location makes a BIG difference. Thanks for telling me! Generally, tomatoes are thrown out at season's end. In the north, we don't have to worry about when that happens, as mother nature tells us with a killing frost usually some time in September. There are basically two tomato types as far as growth goes: determinate, where the plant grows to a particular size, produces fruit, and stops (some people refer to them as bush tomatoes), and indeterminate, where the plant grows as a vine, either sprawling all over the ground or up some kind of trellis. They continue producing fruit until the season ends with a frost. Concerning tomato size, no, smaller second fruits are not common on most tomato cultivars. It may be that since you have grown them in containers, the nutrient status is low in your soil. Tomatoes are heavy feeders, and need regular fertilization throughout the growing season, along with a steady water supply.

I am glad you have chosen to garden and selected tomatoes as your first crop. They’re the most commonly grown garden vegetable in America! I suggest you visit a local bookstore and look for "The Complete Vegetable and Herb Gardener," put out by the Burpee Company. It emphasizes organic approaches to gardening and is loaded with valuable information for both the beginner and professional.

Q: Can you give me any information on tomatillos? How do they produce in North Dakota? When do they ripen ? (Bismarck, N.D.)

A: Tomatillos and tomatoes are both in the nightshade family, but different genera. The tomatillo is the genus Physalis while tomato is the Lycoperscion genera. Tomatillos grow fruit from large marble to golf ball size in a papery husk and are often called "husk tomatoes." There are several indicators of ripeness: the husk gets papery and straw-colored; or it opens; or, the fruit inside changes color from a green to a pale yellow. The tomatillo is used in Mexican cuisine to make a "genuine" salsa. They are generally simmered in water for five to10 minutes or roasted in a broiler until the skin blackens slightly to bring out the flavor before adding to salsa or other recipes. Leave the husks on when harvesting and storing. They will store longer. They often self-seed, so the following season will have some volunteers if they are not completely harvested in the fall.

Q: I am trying to identify a bush I have seen used several places for home landscaping. It resembles an arbor vitae, same light green color and size and general shape. However, instead of the fan-shaped branches being upright they are horizontal, and shaped more like cupped hands, like you would hold out your hand for some one to drop a coin into it. I did not see any seed or fruit on it. (E-mail reference, Moorestown, N.J.)

A: Probably an Atlantic cedar (Cedrus atlantica). The foliage is similar, but the plant material in this genus is more "sophisticated" than the arborvitae. They are quite common in your area and add grace to any landscape as a specimen when surrounded by ample turfgrass. They are without rival as they mature. Check one out at a local nursery to see if I am right.

Q: I have been recently faced with a huge construction effort on my property to repair some foundation problems. My problem is that this effort may require the destruction, removal or transplanting of two lilac bushes which are currently growing along this space. I am worried that if I do not move them they may be damaged during construction, but I am more worried that undertaking a transplant now may kill them as well. Any suggestions would be appreciated. (E-mail reference, Toronto, Ont., Canada)

A: Lilacs are pretty tough. Rather than transplanting, I suggest getting some old sheets or rags and tying the branches together as much as possible and covering with a tarp of some kind during the construction phases. If you have to cut them back somewhat to accomplish this, not a big deal. You’d just lose some blooms next year. You are right, digging them out now would not be a good idea. If the construction gets delayed until the shrubs defoliate in preparation for the winter, then you could safely transplant them.

Q: I've started getting my flower gardens ready for winter and have a few questions regarding cutting back certain plants: I have a hydrangea that the recent frost does not seem to have affected much and still is somewhat green. Should I cut this back before it dies out completed? How far back should I cut it? Should other perennial plants that the frost has not yet killed and are still very green be cut back or should I wait until the frost has killed them? I have always saved geraniums year after year by pulling them up, drying them out, putting them in a brown paper bag, hanging them in my basement and planting them in March. This has always worked good; however, this year we were gone during the time we got the frost and they look pretty sick. Do you think saving them over winter is worth the effort or has the frost killed them entirely? The reason I like to cut the plants back in the fall is I have a problem with slugs, so I don't like to leave anything for them to hibernate under. (Jamestown, N.D.)

A: All good questions: You can cut the hydrangea back after the foliage has been blackened, made limp or fried by the frosts. Cut back to about 6 to 8-inch stubs. Generally the advice is to allow perennial foliage to remain to collect snow; if slugs are a major problem, then clean up of all debris is called for and shouldn't negatively affect hardy perennials that have been planted for more than a year. Give the geraniums a chance. Cut back any stems that are obviously damaged by frost; throw out any plants that seem to be totally affected. Check them frequently through the winter months to be sure none are rotting, disposing of any that are. So much depends on microclimate in something like this. While the official temperatures might have been at the lethal level, it may not have reached that point at your particular site.

Do you have a gardening or houseplant question? Write to Hortiscope, Box 5051, NDSU Extension Service, Fargo, ND 58105 or e-mail to Ron Smith at ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu. Note to e-mail correspondents: please identify your location (city and state) for most accurate recommendations.

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Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor: Gary Moran, (701) 231-7865, gmoran@ndsuext.nodak.edu