November 29, 2001

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: What can I use to keep grapevines from coming back? I pulled all of them out and was wondering if Roundup would work on them. They aren't by a garden. ( Mandan, N.D.)

A: Funny, isn't it? If you don't want a grapevine, it grows like a weed, requiring a nuclear explosion to get rid of it; try "cultivating" one, and every insect and disease organism in creation is on it to see who can kill it off first! Yes, Roundup should take care of it. But be prepared for multiple applications as the root system is very extensive.

Q: My neighbor has a birch tree that is wrecking my roof. I have talked to him but he refuses to do anything about it. Can you suggest a way that I could kill this tree? (E-mail reference)

A: Absolutely not, especially for the reason given. I strongly suggest that you and your neighbor work out your differences, with you tactfully pointing out the damage the tree is causing to your roof and asking that he hire a professional arborist to come in and do some selective pruning. If he still refuses to cooperate, then I suggest legal action (you contacting a lawyer) be taken.

Q: It seems like I remember reading in Hortiscope information on drying gourds. If I am correct, could you refresh my memory on the proper procedure to dry gourds that will be used for decorative purposes. (E-mail reference)

A: You did read it some time ago. But here is the procedure again. Harvest the mature gourds, drill a small hole in the blossom end and hang them up to dry in an appropriate location (basement, garage, etc.). It is a good practice to wipe them down with a solution of rubbing alcohol or hydrogen peroxide prior putting them up for storage to remove any possible surface spores that may cause mischief later on. When the seeds inside sound like a dry "rattle" they are dry. Painting them with clear shellac then also protects them for long preservation. If shellac is not wanted, then a high quality wax can be used.

Q: We have an Ohio buckeye tree in our yard. Is it possible to plant nuts from the tree and have them grow? If so, what is the procedure? I'm interested in doing it as a fun project with my grandchildren. (Arlington, S.D.)

A: Yes, the Ohio buckeye nuts will grow into Ohio buckeye trees! The biggest problem will probably be keeping squirrels from digging them up for food. The only procedure is that they need a cold treatment. You can plant them directly outdoors this fall, about 4 to 6 inches deep, where you want them to grow, because they do not transplant very easily. Cover the area with screening or hardware cloth, remembering to remove it next spring before growth emerges. Be sure the planting is in an area that gets plenty of sunshine, is moderately well drained and has room to grow. That's all there is to it!

Q: How do you split an African violet? I have one in a small pot and the flowers had a hard time showing up through all the leaves. Also, how do you start new ones? I have two 35-45 foot evergreen trees I planted 22 years ago and they are doing great, only I have noticed in the past two years that they have sent what looks like roots out from the tree about 4 feet and and about a half inch above the ground. Can I wack them with my chain saw and can I do it now?

This summer I bought six Coleus (Solar Spectrum) plants for around the deck. They are so beautiful I would like to bring them in the house for the winter. Any ideas? (Valley City, N.D.)

A: Take a sharp knife and cut the African violet cleanly through the crown, dividing it either in half or quarters, depending on how thick and big the crown is. New violets are started from leaf cuttings. Simply cut a leaf off the crown, with the petiole attached, and stick it in a sand/peat mix (50/50), keeping it moist, and under diffused or flourescent light. In about four to six weeks, roots should appear and a new plantlet should be visible getting started at the base of the leaf petiole. Go ahead and whack the tree roots. I have never heard of a root developing like you describe, but then I learn something new about nature every day. Go right ahead and bring the Coleus inside. You might also take some cuttings and root them in the same manner as described for African violets, except that you need some of the stem as well. Each cutting should be about 4 inches or more long. Be sure to give them plenty of light to keep them from becoming spindly.

Q: I have a sugar maple that I planted two years ago and it is not doing well. It has not grown at all. The leaves do not turn red in the fall. Two-thirds of the top branches have died. I have watered it a lot so that shouldn't be a problem. It grew a couple of new twigs on it and within a month they turned brown and died. Is this tree not suited for this area? It isn't any colder here than it is in Minnesota or Wisconsin. I am wondering if I should just replace it. Also I have a purple plum tree. This tree keeps dying from the top down every winter. About a foot of it dies each year and it grows back in the summer. Also the deer won't leave it alone. If this tree isn't suited for our cold winters, I might as well replace it too. Can you tell me if I am wasting my time trying to grow these two kinds of trees or if I am just not doing the right thing. Any advice? (Watford City, N.D.)

A: The sugar maple is definitely not suited to your area. It isn't the temperature as much as it is the soil pH and salts. The trees will simply not take, so you may as well get rid of both of them. The die-back is an indication of lack of reliable hardiness for your area, so don't waste your time attempting to nurse it.

Q: Could you please tell me what the enclosed sample is? It grows on a fence, wild and covers the fence. (Moorhead, Minn.)

A: Thanks for the good sample of Western wild cucumber. This is a perennial that regenerates from an enormous taproot. As the common name implies, it is a member of the gourd family.

While it is considered a weed, it may or may not be a pest in your location. If it is, dig out the root either this fall if you can get to it before freeze-up, or early next spring just as it is starting to grow.

Do you have a gardening or houseplant question? Write to Hortiscope, Box 5051, NDSU Extension Service, Fargo, ND 58105 or e-mail to Ron Smith at ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu. Note to e-mail correspondents: please identify your location (city and state) for most accurate recommendations.

###

Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor: Gary Moran, (701) 231-7865, gmoran@ndsuext.nodak.edu