December 27, 2001

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: I'm looking for some sources for berries suitable for the northern tier of North Dakota.

I'm interested in smaller commercial quantities. Hardiness and price will be determining factors in any purchases we make. (E-mail reference)

A: Contact Dan Kelner at The Juneberry Patch in Velva, N.D. He is the major supplier of Juneberry stock for our region and a good man to know for information on growing them. His cell phone number is (701) 721-4947 and home phone number is (701) 624-5119. For raspberries, try Pattie's Raspberries on the Prairie in Bowden, N.D. Pattie runs the farm and is very knowledgeable and helpful. Her number is (701) 962-3355. Perhaps one of these folks can help you with suppliers of other crops you are interested in.

Q: We have tried for 10 years to get something to grow on my husband's grave with very little success. It lies under a large pine tree and the soil is poor , rocky and thin. Little sunlight reaches the site. There is no water available at the cemetery. I would like to try Silver archangel. (Nay-tah-waush , Minn.)

A: I assume that what you mean by silver archangel is the Galeobdolon argentatum (aka Lamiastrum galeobdolon Variegatum). If anything will make it, this plant should. I have seen it growing in what I would consider impossible conditions.

Q: We recently moved into a farmstead south of Fullerton, N.D. in Dickey County. I would like to plant some shade trees in the yard. I have seen a tree in the Wahpeton Chahinkapa park and also in Ellendale. It has white and black bark like a birch, the branches hang like a weeping willow, but the leaves look like a maple. Any idea what this is and where I might purchase one? Are they hardy and worth planting? (Fullerton, N.D.)

A: Your simple question got my grey matter going, but the only thing I can think of it possibly being is the cutleaf weeping birch. It at least has two of the characteristics you are talking about, and if one stretches the imagination a little, you could say the leaf resembles that of some maples. Check that out at the local nurseries and see if it fits your description. Given normal TLC, you should get 20 or more years out of this beautiful tree.

Q: Now that the leaves are off the birch trees in my front yard, I see that they have never been trimmed. I actually thought they were a sort of cross between a birch and a willow.

Should I also wait until to trim them? (Fargo, N.D.)

A: Birch trees should be pruned very little if at all. There are a couple of reasons for this:

Birches have excessive sap flow from pruning wounds. While it is not directly harmful to the tree, the sap is a rich source of carbohydrate that is attractive to insects in the spring. Consequently, any trimming that is necessary (dead twigs or branches creating a hazardous situation, etc.) should be done in the late spring, mid June when the tree has fully leafed out and the sap flow has slowed somewhat. The bronze birch borer is in our area and loves to prey on white bark birches, especially those under stress from not enough water, soil compaction, wind breakage or severe pruning. Believe it or not, the borer has the ability to detect trees that are stressed and will lay eggs on the upper part of the tree, causing dieback to take place from the top down. The adult is a bronze beetle, and the larvae or grub is small and white, and mines in irregular galleries just under the bark. The younger trees are usually not attacked, as ample moisture and nutrients are readily available. But as the tree gets about 15 to 20 years old the stresses of age usually attract this pest and off to work he goes. Once visible symptoms of borer damage are evident, the tree usually dies out within three to five years or becomes so misshapen that it is no longer a landscape asset and removal is necessary.

Q: I have recently purchased a property in Grand Forks. One of the selling points was a tremendous raspberry bush in the back yard. The former owner said the bush yields many quarts of berries every year, but that the canes that bore fruit this last year should be pruned to keep it producing at that level. Is this correct, and if so, should they be pruned now or in the spring? (Grand Forks, N.D.)

A: The raspberry cane is a biennial one, in that it fruits on the second year's growth and dies down. So, yes, in a nutshell, the canes that bore this past summer should be cut out, as they are dead anyway and you don't want them to become vectors for transmitting diseases or insects to the new fruit bearing canes. Simply cut the old ones down to the ground and haul them out of there. It is best to do this right after the canes are finished bearing, but more often than not that chore just doesn't get done until either the fall or early the following spring. Enjoy! You are fortunate to have one of nature's most productive, tasty, and healthful temperate zone fruits in your backyard.

Q: I have had a jade plant since I was 16 years old. I am now 41. The plant is huge and beautiful. About seven years ago, much to my surprise, it bloomed. It was more white than green! I have been unable to produce any blooms since. I had another jade plant in the house at the time. Did one pollinating the other cause my original plant to bloom? Is there any product to buy that will pollinate the plant into bloom? A friend told me only female plants will bloom. I thought at the time this was ridiculous, but since no blooms have appeared since, I am beginning to wonder about this possibility. Is there anything I can do to produce blooming again, such as placing the plant in darkness for awhile?

A: The only thing that will make the jade flower again is brighter indirect light, festooned with some direct sunshine through a sheer curtain. That along with the fantastic care you have been giving it all these years should get it in flower again in nine to12 months.

Q: I am trying to find out about a beautiful pine tree, a Blue Ice. I do not know the proper name. I would like to know how to take the cone and start a new tree. If you could help answer this I would appreciate it. (E-mail reference)

A: I have a listing for a 'Blue Kiss' blue spruce, and an 'Extra Blue' limber pine, but have never heard of a Blue Ice pine tree. That said, taking a cone and excising the seed may not do the trick in reproducing the same color or form, as it is likely asexually propagated from cuttings or grafting.

Q: What am I doing wrong? We received a peace lily as a gift and it was doing lovely until I transplanted it. The pot I used didn't have the best drainage and I noticed that the leaves were starting to turn brown, not just on the tips, but the entire leaf as soon as it was fully opened. About a month ago I transplanted it to a better pot that has drainage, but the leaves continue to turn brown. I only use the water from our aquarium to water it and don't water until the soil is starting to dry out. We do keep our house rather cool, 62 to 65 degrees most of the time. (Aberdeen, S.D.)

A: I suspect that your problems began in the old container where the drainage was poor. Your plant might have picked up a root rot fungus. I suggest knocking it out of the container and examining the crown and rhizomes to see if they are mushy or beginning to rot. If so, you have no choice but to dump the plant and start over again. White flags or spaths are good plants for moist but well-drained conditions. In fact, they need to have their containers placed on a tray of pebbles in water to keep the humidity high around the plant. These plants also tolerate cool conditions quite well, generally down to 65 degrees F., with no problem. But when the temperature gets below that, the plant begins to struggle a little, especially when the temp dips to the mid-50s. At temperatures that low, watering should be reduced; at temperatures above 65 F (70-75 F, "normal" room temperature) the plant should be kept continuously moist. One last suggestion: I know a lot of people who use aquarium water for irrigating houseplants and have success. I also know some who have problems like you seem to be having. I would try watering with tap water for awhile if the crown and rhizomes show no signs of decay.

Q: I am wondering if spider plants are poisonous. My 7-month-old has gotten a leaf in his mouth because our plants have grown so long. (Anoka, Minn.)

A: Not unless you have used pesticides on the plant. In spite of this, I advise that he not make this a part of his regular diet. Lettuce, beet greens, and celery would be better for him--which he will likely refuse to eat!

Q: I am trying to find the correct spelling for the scientific name of mother-in-law's tongue. Is it Sanseviera trifasciator? My horticulturist wrote it down, but unfortunately, I cannot read his writing and he is not available to answer. (E-mail reference)

A: You are close, but not quite 100 percent. The correct spelling of the snake plant, or mother-in-law's tongue is Sansevieria trifasciata. It’s a good plant for people with poor memories for when the plants get watered!

Do you have a gardening or houseplant question? Write to Hortiscope, Box 5051, NDSU Extension Service, Fargo, ND 58105 or e-mail to Ron Smith at ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu. Note to e-mail correspondents: please identify your location (city and state) for most accurate recommendations.

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Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor: Gary Moran, (701) 231-7865, gmoran@ndsuext.nodak.edu