February 28, 2002

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: I have a fairly large jade plant that has been in the same location(lots of light) for two years now. Lots of the leaves have been shriveling, turning yellow, and falling off. I don't think I over water. The main stems seem healthy. Some are over an inch thick--maybe more. I repotted it about 18 months ago. I never have fertilized it much. Should I start? It is much thinner than it was, and I am most concerned. I have many babies from this plant, but want to save this one! (E-mail reference)

A: It should be fertilized monthly using fertilizer for cacti and succulents. Water only when the surface is dry, and even less in the winter. Don't let water stand in the saucer after watering the plant.

Q: We live in the Missouri River woodlands in the Bismarck area. We have a Haralson apple tree about 10 years old. It looks absolutely great with heavy foliage, nice trunk and branches. But we've only gotten one apple and maybe three blossoms from it its entire life! We've tried everything the different nurseries and county agent in our area have suggested; more fertilizer, less fertilizer, nails, hammer blows, cuts in the bark, pruning half the new growth while dormant, etc. This tree is about 12 to 15 feet tall with a 5-inch diameter trunk. It’s located at the edge of the garden so it gets plenty of water, but we haven't been fertilizing it the last few years to "stress" it, as advised. Two smaller Haralsons in the same yard (each within 100 feet of each other) are also not blossoming or giving much fruit (one or two apples per year.) Other apple trees in the neighborhood are bearing, as are our crab-apples. (Bismarck, N.D.)

A: While you mentioned many other remedies for coaxing a tree into bearing fruit, you didn't mention one I frequently suggest that seems to work most of the time--"traumatic stimulation," where you take a straight-edge spade and drive it into the soil about six or eight places just outside the drip-line of the tree to sever some of the feeder roots. This almost always encourages it into blooming and bearing the following year. I suggest doing this after the frost is out of the ground this spring. And keep fertilizer of any kind away from the roots. It sounds like the tree is getting "spoiled" somewhat, and is not concerned at all about going into a reproductive cycle.

Q: Can you give me instructions on how to take care of a jade plant, such as how much water and sun light is needed, if any fertilizer is needed and any other advice you can give me. I have always wanted a plant like this because they are such a great looking plant. (E-mail reference)

A: The jade is a relatively easy plant to grow. Give it plenty of light - even direct sunlight - fertilize lightly monthly, water when the surface of the soil gets dry (never overwater a succulent!), root new ones from either leaf or branch tip cuttings.

Q: Could you please tell me what you think of Lapins cherry trees, or Bali? Are they a good choice or is there a better tree that could be used for pies and maybe fresh eating? I have two Northstar cherry trees. They really are leggy and put out only a cup of cherries or so; they are healthy but just don't grow. The idea is to replace them, unless you know of a way to make them really produce. (Fargo, N.D.)

A: These are cherries that originated from Alberta, Canada, with cold hardiness reported down into the minus 40s. They are not a sweet cherry, but are tart ones, with fruit getting about 1 inch across, ripening in late August. Unless you like eating tart cherries, I would say they would make good pies. They are also considered self-fertile, not needing another species for cross-pollination.

This information is all from Canadian data, so I would recommend these trees for trial purposes only. We do not have any local data on them.

Q: I just received a Cyclamen for valentine's day and don't really know much about it. Can you help me? In pictures I've seen the flowers stand up high. Mine are not. How can I help them? (Beach, N.D.)

A: I'm glad you are writing so soon after getting a Cyclamen. It sounds like you are overwatering it, or possibly watering it from overhead. Cyclamen need to be watered via the immersion method, where the container is placed in a tub of tepid water to just below the soil or compost line and allowed to stay until the surface glistens. Then remove the plant and allow the container to drain freely for about 20 to 30 minutes before returning it to a north window or other cool location. Keep in mind that the potting medium needs to be kept moist, not saturated, not watered overhead, and the water should be room temperature.

Q: This is kind of an indirect question but it does fit into the field! I have a standard walk-behind tiller and am considering retiring it and getting a small Mantis lightweight tiller instead. I never believe all the advertising behind a product so am looking for people who may have had experience with it. Do you have an opinion? (E-mail reference)

A: No problem. We use a Mantis on the campus beds, and while we don't do a "one-hander" in our heavy soil, it does do a very satisfactory job.

Do you have a gardening or houseplant question? Write to Hortiscope, Box 5051, NDSU Extension Service, Fargo, ND 58105 or e-mail to Ron Smith at ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu. Note to e-mail correspondents: please identify your location (city and state) for most accurate recommendations.

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Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor: Gary Moran, (701) 231-7865, gmoran@ndsuext.nodak.edu