May 9, 2002

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: I would like to start some evergreens from seed, specifically Ponderosa pine and blue spruce. My present trees produce a lot of cones, but I'm told that the seed is gone from the cone before it falls to the ground. How can I collect the seeds and what is the best way to get the seed started? (New England, N.D.)

A: When you see the cones in the early stages of forming, note the ones you want to save. Then, after the male cones have dispersed their pollen, place a small paper sandwich bag over the cones and tie them tightly. This should be done before mid-July to be on the safe side. Then, after a couple of frosts in the fall, carefully harvest the bags. The bags should contain seeds that were dispersed. Next, determine where you want the trees to grow and plant the seed about 1 to 2 inches deep and water. Next spring, if they were viable and no one else found them for food, you should have some trees growing.

Q: Could you please tell me how to care for a plant called "Moses-in-the-rushes"? I'm quite sure it doesn't take a lot of water, but otherwise I don't know anything else about the plant. (Rush City, Minn.)

A: I believe you mean Moses-in-the-cradle. Here are the care tips:

• Keep it warm - no lower than 55 F.
• No direct summer sun, but bright light otherwise.
• Mist foliage with distilled water frequently.
• Repot every spring.

Q: Our daughter gave us an 18-inch miniature orange tree in 2001. After being on the deck all summer, where it grew about 6 inches, I brought it in to our sun room. Today it is about 4 feet tall and looks good, except for the fact that it should be trimmed back. Any suggestions? (Aberdeen, S.D.)

A: The only reason I know anything about orange trees is that I lived in areas of the country where they grow -- Texas and Arizona. Prune them to open the crown for good light penetration and air circulation, making cuts back to lateral branches or the main trunk. Do not leave any stubs. Prune out anything that is growing back into the center of the tree's crown, where branch angles are V-shaped and, of course, anything that is diseased or damaged. Enjoy and good luck!

Q: I have three Beta grapes that are 3 years old. They grew into a large vine last year and I did get some grapes. Someone said that I should cut them back to 18 - 24 inches. Should I cut them back? (Elgin, N.D.)

A: You bet -- every year or they will take over the area!

Q: I have 10- foot tall Colorado blue spruce trees and I am wondering, when is the right time to prune these trees? Should I prune the branches that are next to the ground and, if so, how high? (Lehr, N.D.)

A: Generally Colorado blue spruce need very little pruning. Consequently, I wouldn't prune unless there were diseased, damaged, or dead branches. The lower branch can also be left alone unless it is getting damaged by lawn mowing activity. If you still think pruning is needed, do so this spring after new growth has stopped elongating but before it hardens off. Remove only half the length of the new growth.

Q: I am sending you a leaf from one of my houseplants. It is 3 feet 4 inches tall and has three individual stems. This past winter it has started to get brown spots on the back of some of the leaves. Can you tell me what is causing the spotting? (Pollock, S.D.)

A: Your Schfflerra (Brassaia) is showing symptoms of edema, a corky lesion that often develops from overwatering. I suggest allowing the upper two-thirds of your potting soil to dry before watering again, and make sure the container is free-draining. Also, be sure to dump any excess water that may remain in the saucer 30 minutes after watering.

Q: Does the morel mushroom grow in South Dakota? If so, where is a good place to look for them? (Milbank, S.D.)

A: I have no idea. Perhaps one of our readers will know and inform us.

Q: Can you please tell me where I can find horseradish seed or roots and when to plant it? (Canova, S.D.)

A: Park Seed Co. out of Greenwood, SC has it. You can call toll free at (800) 845-3369 or visit their website at www.parkseed.com. 

Q: What can you do to a mock orange bush that refuses to bloom? I have had this bush for about five years. There were no blossoms the first year, only two little blossoms the second year, and nothing since then. It was suggested that I cut it down and so I did three years ago. It has come back and grown larger each year, but still no blossoms. I would appreciate any suggestions that you can give me. (Hope, N.D.)

A: A non-blooming mock orange could be from too little sunlight or too much lawn fertilizer. If neither of these fit the bill, then I suggest getting it out of there and replacing it with something else.

Q: I have no room for a garden but would like to plant at least one tomato plant in a large cedar planter located either on my deck or somewhere else in my yard. What tomato do you recommend? I would prefer something larger than a cherry tomato. Do I care for it the same as the tomatoes I had in my garden? Should I use garden soil or potting soil? Someone told me that when they used a large planter they put styrofoam in the bottom and then filled the rest with soil so the planter wasn't so heavy. Is this a good idea? (Ashley, N.D.)

A: No cherry tomatoes? Ok then here is a list of varieties that I have found tasty and productive. Many of which should be available at some local garden centers: Early Girl, Brandywine red, Celebrity, Oregon Spring, Prairie Fire, Health Kick, and Russian. Of course, if you can find Sheyenne around your area, that is an old favorite. About the only thing you need to be concerned with is the watering. Container gardens dry out faster than in-ground ones do. Use potting soil, not garden soil.

Q: I have a beautiful spider plant (sentimental) that my grandmother gave me years ago. We had a nice sunny day and some rain, and I thought the fresh air would do my plant some good after being inside all winter. Well I forgot that I had left it outside and we got some frost that same night, after having an 80 degree day. The base is still green, but the tips of the leaves are all brown from the frost. Can I cut this plant right down to the base of the plant? I have cut other plants down and they have come back twice as beautiful, but I am afraid as I've never done this to a spider plant. (E-mail reference)

A: I would wait until some new growth is noted from the base. You said that only the tips of the leaves are brown. If the top was truly killed by the frost, then it would show up in a day or two with flaccid foliage that would soon begin to rot. If that becomes apparent, then remove the top of the plant to the base.

Q: What leaf-eating insect will typically bother cotoneaster? They are forming fine tight webs and curling the leaves. There is also a whitish moldy look in spots. Cando, N.D.)

A: You are probably looking at pear slug pupae from last year. If the plants are still dormant, spray with dormant oil and follow up with any insecticide that is labeled for sawflies, such as Orthene.

Q: I want to move some 3- to 5-foot trees into my yard from where they are growing along a shelter belt. I would intermix them in a line of plum trees. Can I just move them by taking a spadefull of dirt with the root and setting it where I want? (Sheyenne, N.D.)

A: I don't see any reason why not, as long as they are still dormant, and you water them in well. Be sure to plant them at the same depth.

Q: A lady asked if she could spread her fireplace ashes on her garden. Would it help, hurt, or do nothing to her crop? Next, a man asked if there was some chemical he could use to kill a young chokecherry tree growing too close to his house. (Bowman, N.D.)

A: A one-time application of ashes will not hurt, but a continual application would do no good. The pH of ashes is alkaline, something most soils in North Dakota don't need. To kill the chokecherry, allow it to leaf out, then paint or spray the leaves with Roundup.

Q: We have had raspberry plants which were planted three years ago. They grow fine -- lots of blossoms – but they get to the berry forming stage and they just stop. It has been recommended to us to use Captan as it is probably a fungus which is stopping their growth. We bought some Captan 50% WP Fungicide but directions do not list raspberry plant treatment on the can. Please let us know when we should start using Captan and what portions we should be putting on the bushes. Also, how often should we apply it? ( Milbank, S.D.)

A: You were simply sold something without checking it out first. The label must specify use on raspberries before it can be used, otherwise it is referred to as "off-label" use and is considered illegal. Now, having said that, Captan became labeled for use on raspberries in 2000. Take the material back to the source and see if they have one labeled Captan 80WP, which should have raspberries included on the label. It may not be a disease that is causing the non-bearing problem. It could be any number of things -- environmental conditions, lack of pollinating insects, destructive insects. Who knows at this time?

Do you have a gardening or houseplant question? Write to Hortiscope, Box 5051, NDSU Extension Service, Fargo, ND 58105 or e-mail to Ron Smith at ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu. Note to e-mail correspondents: please identify your location (city and state) for most accurate recommendations.

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Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor: Gary Moran, (701) 231-7865, gmoran@ndsuext.nodak.edu