June 27, 2002

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: I just read Hortiscope and it reminded me to ask if you have ever addressed the new requirements of all applicators to be commercially certified. We are getting calls from homeowners for recommendations of lawn and garden applicators and I believe most agents have taken the position that they won't recommend an uncertified operator. Here in Devils Lake we currently have no certified applicators, but I still tell callers not to hire anyone but a certified applicator. Just thought your column would be a good place to give people a heads up. (Devils Lake, N.D.)

A: Following are the certification requirements. We want them certified, not in jail!

Commercial Pesticide Certification: A commercial applicator, dealer, or consultant is "any person who engages in commercial application, sale, or recommendation of pesticides or commercial employment of devices." To become certified, a commercial applicator, dealer, or consultant must pay the certification fee, pass an open-book monitored core and category exam(s), and demonstrate proof of financial responsibility or have the proof of financial responsibility waived.

What follows are descriptions of the major categories of certification for non-agricultural use:

• Home, Industrial, and Institutional Pest Control--includes applications, recommendations, and merchandising of pesticides in, on, or around food handling establishments, human dwellings, public or private institutions, warehouses, grain elevators, and any other structures or adjacent area, for the control of pests.
• Ornamental and Turf Pest Control--includes commercial applications, recommendations, and merchandising of pesticides to control pests in the production and maintenance of ornamental trees, shrubs, flowers, and turf.
• Public Health Pest Control--includes commercial applications, recommendations, and merchandising by state, federal, or other government employees, working under government contract, using pesticides in public health programs for the management and control of pests having medical and public health impacts. Including municipal and other area wide mosquito control programs.
• Right-of-Way--applications, recommendations, and merchandising of pesticides to control pests in the maintenance of public roads, electric power lines, pipelines, railways, right of ways, parking lots, or other similar areas.
• Greenhouse--includes applications, recommendations, and merchandising of pesticides to control pests in a greenhouse.

Materials for the exams are provided by the NDSU Extension Service Pesticide Program. To obtain these materials, contact your county extension office, the NDSU Extension Pesticide Program, or request materials from the NDSU Extension Pesticide Program web page at: http://ndsupesticide.org 

Training sessions are not required, but are extremely helpful for passing the certification exam(s). The NDSU Extension Pesticide Program conducts statewide training sessions each winter/spring. Information on the training sessions is mailed annually to all commercial pesticide certificate holders. For further information contact your local NDSU county extension office, NDSU Extension Pesticide Program, or access the NDSU Extension Pesticide Program web page http://ndsupesticide.org 

Once a person has met the certification requirements, a certificate is issued to the individual in the appropriate category. The card has the applicant's North Dakota pesticide Identification number, name and address of certificate holder, category(s) certified, and expiration date of each certified category. Certifications are valid for three years. All categories expire on April 1 of the year indicated on the card.

Q: I know that rust is talked about in asparagus, but is there a form of root rot that affects it. I understand that a patch in this area appeared completely rotted. Could too much rain and standing water do that too? (Cando, N.D.)

A: You bet! That's why when setting the crowns initially care is taken to assure good drainage conditions. There will never be a better opportunity.

Q: I purchased a Christmas cactus at Christmas and would like some basic information on how to care for it (when to fertilize, how much sun, east, south etc.) so that it will bloom again. I have been pretty much leaving it alone, only watering maybe once a month. (Fargo, N.D.)

A: This plant is daylength sensitive - at least it is supposed to be! What this means, is that it sets the flower buds in the fall of the year with shortening daylight hours. This means that you need to give it more than 12 hours of continuous darkness starting at the end of September to have it flowering around the holidays. Once the buds become visible, daylength is no longer critical.

East facings are generally best; fertilize during active growth periods, and don't over water. Following all of this may get the plant to bloom, but I have known people who have done nothing along these lines and the plant blooms beautifully right on schedule!

Q: I have a question about transplanting oak trees. We planted some oak tree seedlings (that our girls brought home from school) at the end of the garden about 10 years ago. One is now about 6 feet tall and the other one is about 8 feet tall. We would like to move them to a different place in the yard. Can this be done when they are this large? When is the best time to move them? And, can we do it manually, or do we have to try and find a tree moving service? (Fargo, N.D.)

A: The older and larger, the more difficult to transplant. Now is not a good time to do it; early spring being the best time. If you have had no experience in moving trees of this size, then you'd be better off hiring it to be done by someone who knows what they are doing. For example, with next spring before leaf-out being the time to move the trees, the tree mover should come in now during this growing season and root-prune the trees. This will greatly lessen the transplant shock that the trees will go through, and give them a better opportunity to survive.

Q: I was wondering if you could tell me when is the best time to transplant ferns. I think they are called cinnamon ferns. (Morris, M.N.)

A: The best time is in early spring, but I have witnessed (and done it myself!) successful transplanting in summer. It all depends on the TLC you can give it. I suggest making sure it is well hydrated the day before, and either on a cloudy day, or toward the evening hours, dig the fern up with a generous ball of soil and move it to the new location, watering in well.

I am not familiar with the variety of fern you mention.

Q: Could you tell me if the berries of the Schubert crimson chokecherry are edible and good for jelly making? (E-mail reference)

A: You bet! And, I am told, they make a pretty good wine as well.

Q: I read the question and answer about the crepe myrtle that changed colors. I have a friend whose white crepe myrtles have gradually changed to a lilac color. They began changing last year, and the plant had white blooms as well as the light purple ones. This year the plant has all purple blooms. I was wondering if you have discovered new anything about this. (E-mail reference)

A: No! I'm hoping somebody out there can tell me! I can make all kinds of guesses -- chimera, sport mutations, etc., but I certainly don't know for sure, and none of my references give me any information on concerning that characteristic. Sorry.

Q: I purchased an Idaho locust tree. It is about 12 feet tall. Yesterday, a high wind came along and broke the tree in half. The tree had been staked. Is there any way of saving this tree or starting growth from what is left? (E-mail reference)

A: Consider the tree a loss. I am against staking trees for the reason you cited. True, trees will lift in high winds, but they can always be reset. Staking creates a fulcrum that just doesn't give, resulting in what you experienced. Start over -- you'll be a lot happier with the results.

Q: An individual told me that their clematis plant along the deck has damage to the leaves. The leaves are curly and black around the edges. The plant is still blooming. I was wondering if heat is causing the problem because the plant is near a heater vent, and they do not withstand heat to well, correct? We have been dry in this area, so I find it hard to believe it is a fungus. (Steele, N.D.)

A: Clematis like early morning sunlight (east exposures) best. They also like to have their root systems kept moist and cool, which is accomplished with generous organic matter mulching.

You are likely correct; the plant might be responding to excessive temperatures.

Q: At one time my parents had a "flowering twin sister bush" or tree. It had two little white flowers in the spring and produced two little red or orange berries in the fall. Can you tell me it's proper name or what it was? (E-mail reference)

A: No idea. Perhaps one of our readers will know and pass the information on to me.

Q: We are just developing a lake lot on West Battle Lake. One of the basswood trees that we planned to keep has developed problems this spring. This year the tree (about 20 feet tall) developed lots of buds but they have not leafed out. The branches still seem to be alive but we don't know what to do with it. It is located about 10 feet from the shore; the land is very sandy. There is another basswood about 15 feet farther inland that is doing beautifully. Last year the water level was extremely high and I wonder if the roots just have had too much water. Should we cut it down or wait until next spring and see what happens to it? There are other assorted trees closer to the shore, elm, cottonwood, etc. that are doing all right. (E-mail reference)

A: This is a good ecological lesson: the elm and cottonwood will tolerate shifting water table levels much better than basswood trees will. Those that do are known as riparian species. I suggest waiting until next year to see if the tree will recover. If not, take it down.

Do you have a gardening or houseplant question? Write to Hortiscope, Box 5051, NDSU Extension Service, Fargo, ND 58105 or e-mail to Ron Smith at ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu. Note to e-mail correspondents: please identify your location (city and state) for most accurate recommendations.

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Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor: Gary Moran, (701) 231-7865, gmoran@ndsuext.nodak.edu