September 5, 2002

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: I have several large peonies I would like to transplant but they are still green and very lush. I understand peonies are best transplanted in the autumn, so do I need to wait until the leaves have browned or is it alright to transplant now? (E-mail reference)

A: The books all say to plant in the autumn after a good frost, but I have had plenty of good luck planting them around this time or even earlier!

Q: I need to re-sod my back yard. Is it too late to do it this year and would I have to worry about snow mold in the spring if I did it now? (Fargo, N.D.)

A: It’s not too late. In fact the timing is perfect. Try, if possible, to use mineral or "dirt" sod, rather than peat or organic sod. It establishes better.

Q: I have a weed with a small white flower that is becoming a real pest on the north side of our house. Can you tell me what it is and how to get rid of it? The nearest trees are about 100 feet away. Thanks! (Aneta, N.D.)

A: The weed you have is a common one in N.D. on north side locations, common chickweed - Stellaria media. This is an annual plant that reproduces via seed distribution. It pulls easily, as I'm sure you have discovered. You can control it now with a broadleaf herbicide like TRIMEC. Early next spring apply a pre-emergence herbicide.

Q: I have been watering my oak trees with a root watering system about every week to 10 days. But now so many of the leaves are burned around the edges. My county agent thinks the problem is alkaline soil, even though the other plants and trees don't seem to be bothered. He suggested I use MirAcid. Is it possible to apply too much MirAcid? I killed some trees a few years ago by applying too much Miracle-Gro. It says apply one gallon of water with one tablespoon on each 10 square foot area. Could I pour a gallon of the mixture at the base of each tree and not hurt the tree? Or must it be spread out? I sprinkled the mixture on the leaves as per the instruction. If I sprinkled the leaves more than once every two weeks, would it hurt the tree if I am also putting a gallon of the mixture on the ground too?

A: It looks as if your trees are either getting too much water, are planted too deep, or both. I would back off on the fertilizer. It should be used only occasionally and when transplanting.

Q: Can you give me any information on keeping deer out of my garden and flower beds? I have a five foot fence around them. I also use it to keep rabbits out. I have tied mesh bags on the fence filled with moth balls, perfumed cotton balls, hairspray and fabric softener sheets. I put computer discs on fishing line but nothing has helped. I even planted trees and shrubs that are to be used as a deterrent and purchased deer repellent. Any help from you would be greatly appreciated! (Garrison, N.D.)

A: You are one scrappy woman. I haven't seen any deer or rabbits that take too well to pepper spray. That has worked well for us. Don't give up!

Q: Recently you answered someone who had their evergreens die. You recommended they be replaced with Black Hills spruce or ponderosa pine. Do you feel they are a hardier tree than Colorado blue spruce? (Conde, S.D.)

A: As beautiful as Colorado spruce are to look at, they are over-planted in our region. Using either the ponderosa pine or Black Hills spruce would vary the population, and give a little diversity to our landscape. Both are hardy and well adapted to our northern plains.

Q: What causes needles on our blue spruce to turn a shade of pink? Also, the leaves on 12 beautiful tomato plants curled and died. Is this from the neighbors having sprayed their yard for weeds? (Aberdeen, S.D.)

A: It could be from environmental conditions, a needle cast disease getting started, and depending on the extent of discoloration, spray drift from a pesticide - not necessarily a weed killer. With the tomatoes it could very well be herbicide drift, but it could also be a disease. The symptoms would have to be observed.

Q: I was wondering how I can best preserve my cabbage. Should I wrap it in plastic wrap or paper bags in the refrigerator or is there another way to make it last longer? I have quite a bit. (Dickinson, N.D.)

A: Refrigerate in plastic or similar wrap such as tupperware and refrigerate at 35 degrees, if possible.

Q: I have lots of questions, in fact 37 cents worth! I read and enjoy, save and use much of your column. First, my delphiniums seem to rot from the bottom up. I've treated with Gardengard which is for bugs, snails and slugs. Could it be silver fish? Two new plants did the same in a new spot. Could this have come from the greenhouse? Should I reset them in an entirely new place? Second, I have lilies but something is boring into the stems so they get dry and brown and break off. I've treated with Gardengard which may have helped some. I remove and burn the affected stems. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Third, how can I start old fashioned roses from cuttings? I'd hoped not to have to dig up starts. I tried rooting compound and potting soil, but the twigs just dried up. Fourth, is there any hope for baby evergreens once they lose their needles? Might they come back in the spring if I continue to water and care for them? (Bristol, S.D.)

A: Here are your answers - thanks for writing and the nice comments about the column.

1. Definitely relocate the delphiniums. I don't know what the problem is, but whatever it is, don't go back. Make sure they get direct sun.
2. Try a systemic like Orthene.
3. I’ve enclosed a "Home Propagation Techniques" publication available from our office.
4. No hope - they're history.

Q: I am sending a sample of a plant that my husband found in our field. We have never seen it anywhere. How prolific is it? How do you get rid of it? Thank you! (Hecla, S.D.)

A: The sample you sent was of common burdock - Arctium minus. This is a biennial, which in your case, has now entered the reproductive stage. I would suggest cutting the flowering stalk back and burning it, then spray the basal leaves with Roundup. It spreads by "hitchhiking" on clothes.

Q: I read that if, at the first part of October, you feed your Christmas cactus a solution of two tablespoons castrol oil and one-half cup lukewarm water it would bloom before or at Christmas time. Is there any truth to this? I don't want to kill my plant as it came from a clipping of a cactus that was brought over from England over 125 years ago. I also must be the only one from North Dakota that can't get zucchini to grow. They bloom, produce a few squash, and the rest of the blooms either fall off or don't produce. They are in an easterly direction, where it gets early morning sun and plenty of water from the roof of a building when it rains. I also water often.

A: The Christmas cactus will come into flower when its need for short day length has been satisfied. I have never heard of using castrol oil and advise against it. You must be the only one I've ever known that can't grow zucchini! It may be the rainwater from the roof, otherwise, I don't know!

Q: I would like to know if it is possible to start a rose bush by taking part of a branch off of another rose bush? (Menno, S.D.)

A: It can be done, quite easily in fact, but the hardiness imparted by the grafted stock will be lost. So be sure to provide the plant with ample winter protection.

Do you have a gardening or houseplant question? Write to Hortiscope, Box 5051, NDSU Extension Service, Fargo, ND 58105 or e-mail to Ron Smith at ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu. Note to e-mail correspondents: please identify your location (city and state) for most accurate recommendations.

###

Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor: Rich Mattern, (701) 231-6136, rmattern@ndsuext.nodak.edu