Q: Over the years I have become fairly conversant with the propagation of trees and garden goods. After moving into a different home, I find myself woefully ignorant as to the identification, care, and pruning of shrubs and bushes. What manual of instruction would you recommend I study? (E-mail reference)

A: Without knowing where you live, but hoping it is somewhere in the upper midwest, I would recommend "Midwestern Landscaping Book" by Sunset Publications. It is the single best source of information that I can think of for this region. If you live in the northeast, then the "Northeastern Landscaping Book" would be more appropriate.

Q: I have a couple dozen small juniper trees (8 to 16 inches tall) growing under my Russian olive trees in my shelterbelt. I assume the birds planted them. I'd like to transplant them. When is the best time and what is the best way to do that? (Bismarck, N.D.)

A: The best time is sometime this fall before freeze-up takes place. Be sure to give them ample water. While a ball is not necessary, try to keep a slurry of wet soil or peat moss around the roots to keep them from drying out.

Q: We planted a new lawn one year ago. It suffered through the drought this summer but recovered nicely. Now it is full of rust. Is there something we can do? We did not water the grass during the very dry season. (Madison, S.D.)

A: The rust is nothing to worry about. It usually shows up on newly planted turfgrasses at this time of year. I suggest using a winterizing fertilizer to promote a little growth. You can mow and collect the clippings, if you wish, to help reduce the pathogen population. Next year rust should not be a problem. It isn't worth the expense and impact to apply any fungicides at this time.

Q: When is the best time of year to prune back cranberry shrubs we planted around our deck? They are getting out of hand. (E-mail reference)

A: I assume you mean the cranberry bush viburnum. It can be pruned in the spring before new growth begins. If you prune out a third of the branches, and repeat that each year, you will have the benefit of the flowers and berries. If you give the plants a hard cut back in the spring, literally right down to the ground, you will lose the flowers that year.

Q: I received a call from a lady about tomatoes. Her tomatoes have what she described as a black mold on the lower half of the tomato. The inside flesh of the tomato is brown and unusable. She says the plant itself looks healthy. The tomatoes are suspended and not laying on the ground. The disease information I reviewed didn't match the symptoms. She is concerned that she will have the disease in the soil for future crops. Any conclusions or recommendations? Thanks! (Napoleon, N.D.)

A: It sounds like delayed blossom rot having an effect on the whole fruit. This is a cultivar interaction with the environment, which is simply the fact that this particular one is not suited for growing in N.D. Normal garden clean up this fall and a new cultivar selection will likely solve the problem.

Q: We have a problem in our yard. There are dandelions and bull thistles growing in our lawn. Which is the most effective way to control them, spraying or granules, and when? (McHenry, N.D.)

A: Now and with spray.

Q: We have some big muskmelons that are beautiful on the outside. Inside, just under the skin, there are small (3/8 inch) dark spots. We have to peel the melon and then cut out the spots. The remainder tastes very good and sweet. (Brookings, S.D.)

A: You are probably catching the start of a pathogen of some kind. Keep the patch monitored and the melons picked as they ripen to keep the problem from spoiling the rest of your melons.

Q: I would like to divide up and transplant my rhubarb plants. They have not been moved or divided for years. Is this a good time to do so and do you have any tips for doing it successfully? Also, I have something digging holes in my lawn. What ever it is seems to do it at night, digging small round holes and laying the grass beside the hole. I have a nice lawn and I am afraid this is really going to hurt my grass. Any idea what it is or what I can do? (Rutland, N.D.)

A: Dig and divide the rhubarb in the early spring just before new growth starts. Divide the plants into pieces that have one or more vigorous buds. Replant in soil well-worked with compost or peat moss and enriched with about a cup of 5-10-10 or something similar. Plant the buds 4-6 inches deep. It sounds like skunks are digging up your lawn looking for grubs before they go deep for the winter. Try trapping them in a live trap using an opened can of fishy cat food as bait. Then the tricky part is to get a tarp over the cage and get it moved without getting a dose of their unique perfume. To discourage skunks, leave the lights on or have something that makes noise on a random basis. They are not as persistent as raccoons, so a little effort in spooking them may work. Of course, if they are unsuccessful at finding any food, they will move on!

Q: My mother has a patch of raspberries about 10- by 50- feet. They have become overgrown so she would like to take out the older half of the patch. What type of spray would you recommend and should I do it this fall or next spring. (E-mail reference)

A: Spraying them with Roundup now would do a pretty good job of killing them off. You’re much better doing it in the spring.

A: Make of it what you wish, but it is probably a combination of both. Try repeating it again to see if your luck or skill continues. Our winter light is so weak, that unless you are willing to add supplemental lighting, it likely wouldn't bloom any better. Try potting it at the end of February to see if that results in sooner blooming for you. Congratulations on having a green thumb!

Q: I have an Autumn Blaze Maple that has black spots on the leaves. Do you know what this might be? (E-mail reference)

A: It could be one of three diseases. Tar spot, which is spread from fallen leaves onto the newly emerging foliage. Control by raking up all fallen leaves and/or spraying with Bordeaux mixture during leaf emergence. The other two, phyllosticta and septoria, since you didn't mention premature defoliation, have the same basic approach for control: sanitation and timely spraying with Bordeaux mixture.

Q: I have several plants that have been outside all summer in pots and would like to them in for the winter. Do I have to do anything special? I planted them in Miracle-Gro potting soil this spring. Some are cactus that I have already sprayed with insecticidal soap but still have some cobwebs on them. Can I cut a mandevilla vine down and try to keep it over winter? How does one start lantana? I have many beautiful ones and would like to try and root some for next year as they are about $3.50 each. Do they come from cuttings or seeds? (Minot, N.D.)

A: I would suggest repotting anything that has summered outdoors whether or not you repotted prior to setting the plants out. You can use the same potting soil brand or anything that is available with similar qualities. Spiders will be wiped out by the insecticidal soap but the webbing will not. With the Mandevilla vine, go ahead and give it a try. Make sure you have plenty of light. Lantana's can be started easily

Q: We have two hydrangea bushes on the west side of our house. They seem to be growing out of control. They are so big and heavy that they droop over so that the flowers are on the ground. I don't know what kind they are and am wondering if it's too late to prune them this year. Will pruning prevent them from drooping next year? Thanks! (Savage, M.N.)

A: It can't hurt. Give them a good pruning before winter arrives. They bloom on the new growth produced next season.

Q: It was so hot last spring when the spirea were done blooming that I didn't cut them back. Could I do it this fall before freeze up? Thank you. (Marion, N.D.)

A: You could, but it is not a good idea. You are better off doing it early next spring before the plant leafs out.