Q: What fruit trees will act as pollinators for a sungold apricot? When I bought it, I was told it would self-fertilize. Now I have been told that it needs a pollinator and that moongold is recommended. Are there other trees, besides moongold, that would work? Does it have to be an apricot tree? I got the impression from one of your answers that it just needs to be in the prunus family. I'm trying to find a variety that I can espalier since I have run out of yard space. (E-mail reference)

A: I assume that you live somewhere in the Upper Midwest. To be on the safe side, always plant another cultivar or two to assure cross-pollination. The species that is used for our region of the country is prunus mandshurica. Sungold and moongold cultivars are recommended for the coldest regions like North Dakota and upper Minnesota. If you live anywhere else, then the choices become a little wider and you can consider planting scout, moorpark, mantoy, manchu, and possibly goldcot.

Q: My schefflera is about 5 years old and has grown to a height of about four feet. The trunk is sturdy and the leaves are beautiful and shiny. Each summer I put it outside (I live in Southern New Jersey), but when I bring it in for the winter it drops the bottom leaflet. There are no leaflets on the bottom three feet. Is there any way I can get a bud to break along the trunk? (E-mail reference)

A: The only way I know is to cut it back, which is usually not a good option. The plant is shedding the oldest leaf in response to lower light intensity when it’s brought inside. Another possibility is to air-layer the top part of the plant to start a new one while it is attached to the mother plant, and once it is removed, the mother plant usually breaks new growth from the base.

Q: I have a jade plant that my cat knocked over breaking off three or four good-size branches (if that's what you call them) and a lot of leaves. Can I simply stick the branches back in the pot or do I need to make a clean cut. Should I use a new pot? I love this plant and don’t want to throw these pieces out if I can possibly save them. (E-mail reference)

A: Make fresh cuts and plant them in a fresh pot (preferred), leaves included. Most should root for you in about six weeks. Naughty kitty!

Q: Any suggestions on how to get rid of grubs on my lawn? We can’t afford to have a professional come out and spray. (E-mail reference)

A: I don't know where you live, but if you live east of the Mississippi, you can get a natural control known as Bt which will make the grubs sick and die as it keeps them from getting to their reproductive stage. It takes a while to work, but it is effective at controlling the grub stage of the Japanese beetles. You can reduce the population but you'll never be rid of them. There are lots of natural predators that will help to control them as well, so I advise against using chemicals especially in the hands of non-professionals.

Q: I have a 3-year-old Christmas cactus which used to bloom beautifully and did just fine on watering every 2 weeks. But for the last few months I've noticed that it isn't as green as it used to be and the ends of the stems are pink/red. I tried repotting it in cactus soil about a month ago and it hasn't helped. The pot drains pretty well and I keep it near an east window. (E-mail reference)

A: Knock the plant out of the pot and see if the base of the stems are soft or spongy which would indicate the plant is rotting. If so, you can try saving it by cutting the decay back to fresh, firm tissue and repotting. Other than that possibility, I can't come up with any other suggestions based on what you have told me.

Q: We bought a live Christmas tree last year, an aleppo pine. It's not the prettiest tree in the world, but it's our defacto tree for the holidays. It grew about 6 inches this year and seems to be doing well, except for masses of mealy bugs on the main stem and on the newer growth. I soaked the whole tree in Neem oil spray a couple of weeks ago. Is there anything else I can do that is more effective. This tree is potted and is about 5 feet tall. (E-mail reference)

A: Time to try something with a little more horsepower, although I think the Neem should do the trick. I suggest that you try insecticidal soap because it is less toxic and should also do the job. Resort to Malathion if that doesn’t work. If that fails, give up! They're too tough but one of the alternatives should work.

Q: My mother-in-law has an apple tree that is approximately 90 years old. It bore fruit every other year regularly throughout my husband's childhood, but has lately started to die branch by branch. We tried grafting scions from it into our own orchard, but failed. What would happen if we cut back the apple tree severely, almost like we do with our new trees when we prune them down to whips. Would it sucker? With proper pruning could it be revived or is it fairly hopeless? We've been unable to find information on reviving a tree that's doing so poorly. While I've never tried them, apparently this tree produces the most delicious apples ever! (E-mail reference)

A: You would have nothing to lose by trying. It would probably work unless the root system is rotting.

Q: I have a jade that is 25 years old. Its trunk is equivalent to the diameter of a golf ball. It’s about 2 feet high. It has brown patches and leaf drop. What kind of soil do I use for repotting? I can see the root ball on the surface. It’s in an 18-inch container. I'm afraid to transplant it for fear I may kill it. It’s a really nice specimen when its healthy. What type of fertilizer is best? (E-mail reference)

A: The leaf drop is likely coming from a light intensity that is too low. Jade requires a very strong indirect light or filtered sunlight. The soil mix should be either for cacti or succulents. You can also mix it yourself using two parts sphagnum peat moss, one part coarse perlite, and one part coarse sand. Generally, you want to move it up to the next-sized container. It sounds like you have a large enough container for the aerial size of the plant you have described. Consequently, I would suggest some root shaving or pruning accompanied by a corresponding reduction in the aerial portion of the plant. Repot it in the same container, assuming it is a freely draining pot.

During the winter months use very little fertilizer unless active growth is observed. When it is, use a formulation for foliage houseplants such as those marketed by Schultz or other reputable companies. Be sure to follow label directions.