North Dakota State University -- NDSU Agriculture Communication
7 Morrill Hall, Fargo ND, 58105-5655, Tel: 701-231-7881, Fax: 701-231-7044
agcomm@ndsuext.nodak.edu

December 12, 2002

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

 

Q: I purchased several baby ferns from a plant nursery. All but one are absorbing water. The water just seeps out under the pot, even if I skip a day of watering. (E-mail reference)

A: Sounds like it has developed hydrophobic tendencies. Try immersing it in water with just the smallest drop of liquid soap added to break the tension. That often works.

 

Q: I recently purchased three plants. Your column answered my questions on two plants, chenille and goldfish, but my other plant is called a dancing dolphin. I can not find any information on this plant. (E-mail reference)

A: I need a botanical name. I've looked through my seven books on houseplants and the only reference I found listed was dancing orchid. I've spread the word to some of my colleagues. If they can help, I'll gladly pass on the information.

 

Q: I was recently asked if jade plants bloom? (E-mail reference)

A: The answer is yes but it happens eventually and sporadically. They are generally known as bold foliage houseplants.

 

Q: I have a Christmas cactus that was propagated from a friend’s plant. It did not flower the first year. This year I’ve covered the plant every night for 12 hours since mid-October. A couple of weeks after I did that, buds started to come out. Now it has started to blossom. The color is supposed to be pink but mine is mostly white/cream with only a little pink showing. Is it supposed to do that on first blossom or am I doing something wrong? I stopped covering it a week ago. Should I go back to covering it every night? The plant is near a north window. (E-mail reference)

A: You have done nothing wrong but you do not need to start covering your plant again. Once initiated, the flower buds will continue to develop and open. Often flower color, like fruit color (in apples for example), is a chimera, or a bud sport. Without creating an academic explanation of this interesting phenomenon, it basically represents a vegetative or somatic change in the genetic make up of some cells. The cutting you got from your friend might have had the red flower color as a chimera. The mutation was lost when you propagated it and it reverted back to the original color. Or (to make this even more confusing!), your flower color could be a chimera. The long and short of all of this, don’t worry. Enjoy your Christmas cactus for what it is doing, regardless of the flower color. Who knows, as more blossoms open, you may find even more interesting flowers to ponder over!

 

Q: I have had a Christmas cactus for five years and every year there are more blooms. It is beautiful but how do I keep the leaves clean? I would appreciate a home remedy because I live in a rural area so certain items aren’t always available. (E-mail reference)

A: Move it into the bathroom if you can and rinse the blooms with a gentle spray of tepid water. Glad to hear yours is doing well. Keep up whatever you are doing!

 

Q: On Dec. 6 I heard the end of a discussion about Norfolk pines on Prairie Public Radio. You mentioned something about a Norfolk pine in New Rockford. I missed the part about where it is located in the city. Could you tell me where it is? Is it growing outdoors? If so, I would like to see it. I have two Norfolk pines as houseplants. They are about 12 years old. They are doing well but I have never repotted them and rarely fertilize them. Occasionally a branch will dry up and fall off but there is usually new growth on the top. Should I repot them or leave them since they seem to be thriving? (New Rockford, N.D.)

A: That particular Norfolk island pine is (or at least was) located in the county courthouse. I would be loathe to do anything to the pines you describe. I am afraid that they would react poorly and you would be disappointed. If they are doing well under present conditions, I'd leave well enough alone.

 

Q: I have a slightly overgrown arborvitae under the corner of my roof but it gets damaged every year from ice run-off. I'm wonder if I should wrap it in burlap or tie it in some manner so it doesn't get beat down by the run-off. How long should I leave it wrapped? Is there some better or easier way? (E-mail reference)

A: Try to locate some 6 foot one-inch by one-inch oak stakes and tie them to the trunk of the arborvitae with rage to give it benign support. That should take care of the problem. Complete wrapping is not suggested.

 

Q: Can yews be propagated at this time of year? Do the cuttings require heat? I am also interested in dogwoods. How are they propagated? (E-mail reference)

A: Hardwood cuttings can be taken at this time of year and rooted under lights with bottom heat. Use sterilized sharp sand and dip the cuttings in a rooting hormone. Ditto for dogwoods. Rooting should take place in about six weeks.

 

Q: My mother in law has three dwarf juniper bushes that are very overgrown. They have not been pruned in years so they look bad. One has grown sideways and there is a large hole in the bush. They are planted in a bed surrounding a Crepe myrtle tree. Can I cut the junipers back (even as far as to the ground)? If they can't survive a severe pruning like that, can they be removed without damage to the Crepe myrtle? I am worried that the root systems will be very tangled and trying to pull the junipers out would also mean having to remove her Crepe myrtle. (E-mail reference)

A: Sacrifice the junipers! Cut them back as far as possible. Carefully spray any green sprouts that may show up with pre-mixed Roundup. Attempting to dig them out, from what you describe, would very likely be the death knell for the beautiful crepe myrtle.

 

Do you have a gardening or houseplant question? Write to Hortiscope, Box 5051, NDSU Extension Service, Fargo, ND 58105 or e-mail to Ron Smith at ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu. Note to e-mail correspondents: please identify your location (city and state) for most accurate recommendations.

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Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor: Rich Mattern, (701) 231-6136, richard.mattern@ndsu.nodak.edu