Q: I just got a Christmas cactus but it did not come with any information on how to take care of it. How do I water it and what should I do with the old blooms? Also, what kind of food does it need? (E-mail reference)

A: After the flowering period, which is now, allow the plant to go into a resting period which means keeping the plant cool and watering infrequently until about the end of March. Then water thoroughly when the compost begins to dry out. When all danger of frost is past, you can summer it outdoors in a shady spot, making sure slugs don't find it. Bring it back inside in September before any frosts, reduce watering, and cover all night long for more than 12 hours until buds begin to form, then don't cover any more. Once flower buds form, increase the watering, and the cooler you can keep the plant, the longer the blooms will last. During periods of active growth, fertilizer about every two weeks with a houseplant fertilizer such as Schultz's. Take cuttings and root them to perpetuate the plant as it ages.

Q: I bought a kit with an amaryllis bulb, pot and dirt. I followed all the directions that came with the kit. I purchased the kit on Nov. 20, 2002 and it is the same as when I planted it. What did I do wrong? (E-mail reference)

A: Likely nothing. You probably have a non-living bulb. I would take it back.

Q: Can peonies be started from stem cuttings? (E-mail reference)

A: By division and by seed, and if you are skilled, by grafting. From stem cuttings, no. I have never heard of anyone having success starting peonies from stem cuttings and my references don't indicate any success with that method.

A: Although this isn't the right time of year to talk about lawns, it is perfectly fine with me if we do some out of season head knocking on the subject. What you’ve told me doesn't surprise me. Sodded lawns on heavy Red River valley clay soils should be core aerated every year. Then power rake to break up the cores, and over-seed with a compatible Kentucky bluegrass blend, since 99 and three quarters percent of all sodded lawns are bluegrass blends. This will allow the grass to become better rooted, improve surface drainage, and introduce seed that will eventually become established over the years. If you have an automatic irrigation system, flag the heads first, then cut the grass shorter than normal without injuring it, collecting the clippings. Next, take a core aerator and go over the lawn in two directions. Allow the cores to dry for a few hours, then go over them with a power rake or lawn groomer. This will pulverize the cores and provide a good bed to seed into. Spread the quality bluegrass blend, then drag it in with either the back of a broom rake or drag mat. This should result in a major improvement in your lawn. Repeat this procedure each year until you get the quality of turfgrass you want.

Q: I am seeking information on how to save a jade plant that my mother gave me before she passed away. The problem began when I purchased a jade tree. It started to develop little white cotton ball type mold spots at the base of the leaves where they sprout out of the stem. It is slowly consuming the plant. I just recently discovered the same problem on my mother's jade located on the opposite side of the room. At first I thought I had purchased a diseased plant and it had traveled over to my mother’s plant. Now I am beginning to wonder if how I am caring for them is the problem. Any clue as to what this is and if it is treatable? I would hate to loose this plant as I am tied to it for sentimental reasons. (E-mail reference)

A: It sounds like an insect problem, specifically, cottony cushion scale. These are tough characters to control on houseplants, especially when the infestation has progressed to the point you describe. For possible treatment, see if you can find a No-Pest strip. Put the plants in a large plastic trash bag or clean trash can along with the pest strip. Seal up whatever you use for at least 24 hours and follow the directions carefully on the package the strip comes in. This is potent stuff so handle as instructed. To be on the safe side, take cuttings from leaves or branches that are not infested and root them in a sand/peat (50/50) mixture to perpetuate your mom's plant. If you will send me your mailing address, I will forward to you the Home Propagation Techniques booklet.

Q: What causes my tomatoes to be mealy? They look great, are firm and ripe, but when we cut them open they are mushy and mealy. What can we do to avoid this? (E-mail reference)

A: Change to another cultivar if you are growing them in your garden. If you are purchasing them from a supermarket, complain to the produce manager. I don’t know specifically what causes the problem but I would guess it has something to do with environmental/cultivar interactions. If the tomatoes you are growing are from seed you have saved from previous crops, that could be the answer. If I come across a definitive answer either via my references or another authority, I'll post it to my Web site.

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