March 13, 2003

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: I would appreciate some advice concerning a windbreak we are planting this spring. We live in rural Hawley, Minn. and our house is on a hill where the wind pounds us in the winter. I've contacted the Soil Conservation department in Clay county and have a plan for a windbreak using redosier dogwood, Black Hills spruce, and amur maple. The two rows of dogwood are 4 feet apart within and between the rows as per the recommendations on living snow fences. The dogwoods will be on the far northwest side to serve as a snowfence for our driveway. How far apart should I space the spruce trees within the rows? I'm tentatively set for 15 feet but am a bit concerned. I just read that trees used as windbreaks are most effective if they branch all the way to the ground and are spaced at a distance about one-half their mature width. I believe Black Hills spruce have a crown width of 15-25 feet. Do I risk irritating the Soil Conservation people and have them adjust the spruce trees back to a 10-foot spacing within the rows? (Hawley, Minn.)

A: No, you are fine. Most decline in windbreaks is due to planting too close. When the Black Hills spruce mature, they will be just about the right distance apart. Ten feet apart would be too close and could lead to disease problems.

Q: I had a sago palm growing indoor for about two years. Last summer it produced four or five new fronds (or whatever they are called) that were about 15 inches in length and looked healthy. Just as the needles started to unfurl, they dried up and died. About the same time some of the older fronds dried up (which I understand happens in order to provide food and energy for the new ones). Now this winter all of the rest of the older fronds dried up with no new growth coming up. Is this the end of my plant or might I still get some new growth? ( Bismarck, N.D.)

A: It doesn't sound good. I would suggest hanging on to the plant and try summering it outdoors to see if you get a reaction. As long as the stem is not mushy, it should be fine. If it becomes mushy, then go ahead and dump it.

Q: I have allergies and was told I could no longer have plants in my room because of mold that develops in the soil. Then someone told me to get a spider plant because somehow it destroys mold. I've never heard this before and I thought it sounded a little weird. I already have several that I've been growing for some time. (E-mail reference)

A: Probably a case of misunderstanding. The spider plant was used by NASA as an "air purifier" for tight enclosures. The test was to see if it would absorb and detoxify some of the chemical esters given off in the construction of such a tight environment, and it apparently worked. I doubt that it "destroys" mold spores, but it might sequester them in some manner. If you are living with these plants without allergy symptoms, then everything must be working somehow.

Q: My mother has a fairly large peace lily that she has had for 11 years. This last weekend she decided to divide and repot it. She divided it into three and gave me one of the smaller two divisions. After bringing it home and observing it the past several days, I'm worried about whether or not it will make it. Virtually all of the leaves are droopy and many have a dark-reddish/blackish veining on part or all of the leaf. The soil is still moist, but I haven't watered it since we repotted it four days ago. I'm wondering if it is experiencing transplant shock or perhaps shock from being moved in a cold environment from her house to mine (5-10 minute drive). It's not directly in front of any windows but receives light from south-facing windows with somewhat obstructed light. (E-mail reference)

A: Give it a chance. It has likely suffered cold shock and is going to lose all its leaves. It should eventually recover. Just be patient. The combination of division and movement through the cold temperatures would cause the symptoms you are describing.

Q: In desperation I am seeking help with my giant jade tree. The trunk is approximately 10-12 inches in diameter and is about 5 feet tall. It accidentally got banged and a large branch came off. Usually when a branch has broken in the past it heals but this time it is rotting. I have been cutting off under the rotting part but it continues to deteriorate. The last time I made a cut, I brushed some benomyl on it. Do you think this will help? And do you have any other suggestions? ( Winnipeg, MB)

A: I suggest taking some cuttings and rooting them to perpetuate the plant. Also, you probably should cut the plant back below the bruised area to another lateral branch. It appears the rot is too persistent and virulent to treat.

Q: I have a blooming pink jade plant that receives sun mostly in the morning. Is that enough sunlight? I do not want to move it for fear of damaging it. I live in an apartment and leave the drapes open in the morning while I’m at work. (E-mail reference)

A: Your jade plant should be as happy as a pig feeding in a corn trough! Leave it there.

Q: I’ve had a gardenia for almost a year. It was in bloom when we bought it but it has not bloomed since. The card said not to fertilize. The plant has doubled in size but the new leaves are a lighter green. I understand it likes acid soil as do camellia and azaleas which I also have trouble with. (Elkton, S.D.)

A: Go ahead and fertilize with an azalea plant food fertilizer. Rebloom will take place when the plant is good and ready to do so which will probably be later in the year. Just make sure you do not do any pruning in the meantime. Good luck!

Q: I received a beautiful poinsettia for Thanksgiving from my daughter. It has since begun to look very sickly and nearly all of the leaves have fallen off. What do I do now? I have been afraid to disturb it for fear it will die. (Litchville, N.D.)

A: Poinsettias are tougher today than ever before! Repot it if necessary and keep it in a south window. You should also get some houseplant fertilizer that promotes blooming. Summer the plant outdoors, take some cuttings to root, bring everything in this fall before frost and begin the cycle over again.

Q: I received a question on eating purslane. The man said he found it in the Old Farmers Almanac. What do you have or can find on this? (Fessenden, N.D.)

A: Yes, purslane is edible. The younger the plants are the more tender and tasty. It is used like spinach or in a salad.

Q: I have a question about some varieties of maple trees that are available. Could you please give me some guidance on which to plant? I did look through my master gardener’s book and it appears that NDSU has done some field testing on three of the four. The area that I am looking at is on the east side of our house. We have a shelter belt on the east side of our farm and there is a narrow shelter belt on the south side. Our quonset is also to the south of where I would like to plant the trees. To the north is the barn and another large shelter belt. In my opinion there is plenty of protection for the trees. There are also no over head power lines. The trees we are looking at are; autumn blaze maple, autumn spire red maple, fall fiesta sugar maple and Northwood red maple. I would like something that will offer a lot of color and also hardy to this area. The autumn blaze maple, autumn spire red maple and the fall fiesta sugar maple were the trees that were listed in the handout that we received, which mentioned that they were hardy east of highway 281 in North Dakota. I live 10 miles south east of Sheyenne, North Dakota which puts us east of 281. (Sheyenne, N.D.)

A: They should make it. Dr. Herman here at NDSU is very thorough in his evaluation of tree cultivars, generally giving them about a 10-year trial period. If he gives them a green light, they should perform to your satisfaction unless a major calamity occurs with Mother Nature.

Q: I would appreciate some suggestions regarding landscaping our yard. We have a home north of Bismarck on the Missouri River. We get lots of wind on the (west) river side and an unbelievable amount of cottonwood leaves in the fall. We love the cottonwood trees so I don't mind the leaves other than how it might affect the plants around the house. I planted tauton yews on the river side last year. They are doing very well. I planted some wild-flowers on the east side and they did very well last summer. However, they have been beaten down a little by the leaves and I am curious to see how they fare. The solid planting of wild-flowers made it very difficult to get the leaves out. We also planted tomatoes on the east side where they got lots of sun and no wind. They did well. Now I would like to plant some flowers to get summer color but am unsure how to proceed. I am looking for help on plant selection and placement. I like the solid-plantings for their low maintenance but the leaves are a concern. Any suggestions? (Bismarck, N.D.)

A: I suggest going for some tough, leaf-shedding annuals and perennials like the following:

Perennials: Lupine Delphinium Oriental Poppies Echinacea

Annuals: Cleome (spider plant) Iceland Poppies Rudbeckia (Indian Summer especially) Cosmos

Showier plants like the wave petunia series and geraniums will probably get covered too much by leaves based on what you are telling me. This should give you a start.

Q: I have a Christmas cactus that is 10 years old and has been quite healthy. But I have noticed some white fuzzy stuff around the joints of the leaves. It doesn't appear to be mold. It is still flowering and I wondered if it would be okay to repot it now? (E-mail reference)

A: It is probably an insect known as either the cottony cushion scale or mealybug. Take a Q-tip and dip it in rubbing alcohol and rub those critters off. They are not doing your plant any good. Monitor over the next couple of months to be sure they are not coming back. It is difficult to get rid of the insects on the first try.

Do you have a gardening or houseplant question? Write to Hortiscope, Box 5051, NDSU Extension Service, Fargo, ND 58105 or e-mail to Ron Smith at ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu. Note to e-mail correspondents: please identify your location (city and state) for most accurate recommendations.

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Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor: Rich Mattern, (701) 231-6136, richard.mattern@ndsu.nodak.edu