May 8, 2003

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: Do we have a company in the state that specializes in garden seeds for our climate? (Williston, N.D.)

A: Yes, the company is Meadowlark Seeds of Casselton, N.D. Call (800) 493-7333 to get a copy of their catalog or place an order directly online. The company is run by an Association of Marketing Students, so your order will go to a good cause! They also have a web page at: www.mls.central-cass.k12.nd.us .

Q: I have two extremely annoying cottonwood trees in my back yard. During the month of June I can't even go out to the pool because the fuzz is coming down like a snow storm and clogging the filter in my pool. I intend to eventually cut them down, but for now I just want to kill the female. What poison do you recommend? (E-mail reference)

A: A chain saw. Let it leaf out first, then cut it down. That will reduce the number of sprouts coming up from the roots. Spray Roundup or any broadleaf herbicide like Trimec on sprouts that do come up.

Q: We're seeing a number of lawns locally with some obvious yellow patches but there doesn't seem to be any pattern. Would you surmise that we're likely dealing with one of the snow molds such as pink snow mold? It just showed up in the last week or so. We had a couple of late snows. (Cando, N.D.)

A: It could very well be. If it doesn’t disappear in 30 days, then it could be an iron deficiency or yellow tuft (downy mildew).

Q: I just looked at a farm shelterbelt with 2-3 foot high blue spruce showing fairly severe winter burn. The area they are planted in is black summerfallow. Would there be an advantage to these people to keep some type of mulch around those trees, especially in the colder months? I would guess that if some mulch, stubble or whatever was out there catching a lot of snow, the soils wouldn't get as cold so the trees would be less susceptible to injury problems. (E-mail reference)

A: Definitely mulch! The black dirt and high light intensity days can do an excellent job of frying the needles. I would also advise spraying with an anti-desiccant before freeze-up and again in late winter or early spring.

Q: I reside in south central North Dakota and will be relocating this summer to the north-central part of the state. I have invested a lot of time and energy in some plants so I would like to relocate them. Specifically, stone crop, columbine and a lily. Would it be okay to relocate them now? I won't be able to return in the fall to retrieve them. Any special tips on handling them? (Wishek, N.D.)

A: Carefully dig them up with as much root and soil mass as possible and move them to their new site as soon as possible. Water in well and fertilize. Enjoy!

Q: I have a yellow fungus growing on the soil surface of my inverted jade. At one point the fungus sprouted little yellow/brown mushrooms. When I tried to re-pot I found little white nodules on the root tips. The plant has had this fungus for years but it is now starting to spread to my other plants. I have re-potted several times and have not been watering it much in hopes of getting rid the fungus, but to no avail. It has not killed the plant but its growth has been stunted ever since it contacted the fungus. I have looked at the symptoms of yellow houseplant fungus and although the mushrooms look similar, I have never seen any reference to the yellow carpet of fungus that is covering the surface of the soil. From what I have read, yellow houseplant fungus is not supposed to harm the plant but I’m certain the fungus I have is damaging my plant. Do you have any ideas or suggestions on the name, indications, and eradication of this fungus? (E-mail reference)

A: As far as I know, you have a saprophyte growing on the organic matter in your soil. It should not cause direct harm to your plant but it may be competitive with the plant for water and nutrients and in that indirect way, cause harm. The best approach that I know of is to use sterilized or pasteurized soil. Wash your pots in a 10 percent bleach solution and allow them to dry completely. You can then repot, fertilize and water according to instructions.

Q: I've heard that grass will not grow under lilacs. If that’s true, can you suggest other plants that I could plant around or near my lilacs, that would thrive and survive? I have three old fashion lilac bushes and will be getting five Korean lilacs with my new landscaping project. The landscaper plans to put rock around the bushes, which is fine, but I would like to add more plants and flowers to my back yard to fill in the gaps and add a little interest. Any suggestions? (Minneapolis, Minn.)

A: My first suggestion would be to try to talk the landscaper out of using rocks as a mulch unless you are in an extremely windy location. Rocks, in my experience, are always finding their way onto the lawn. The perennials that will grow in shade include: geranium, hecuhera, hosta, primula, vinca minor (periwinkle) and Viola. Add to that some begonias and impatiens and you have a nice selection to choose from!

Q: My husband and I recently purchased a pipestone plum tree. We only purchased one tree so we are wondering about pollination. We do have what we believe are wild plum trees in our tree row. Our new plum tree is planted just to the south of this tree row. Will these pollinate each other? The wild plum trees have produced very little fruit the last two years. Could the introduction of a different plum tree help with the production of fruit on the wild plums? Are wild plum trees common in my area? (Lake Park, Minn.)

A: The wild plums should provide ample pollen for your recently planted tree. Generally it takes two or three years for the trees to begin to bear fruit. It is common for tree rows to have some wild plums growing in them.

Q: I have removed a 25-year-old low juniper from the front of my house and am looking for a replacement that can tolerate alkali soil. In a column from a previous year, you recommended compact pfitzer juniper. The Neche greenhouse says juniper is for zone 4. I live 17 miles south of the Canadian border and about 50 miles west of the Minn. border west of Langdon. Will the compact pfitzer grow here? If so, where can I purchase one? Is there something else you would recommend? It will have an east exposure. My foundation plantings consist of native plants such as lilac and globe carrigana. (Wales, N.D.)

A: The greenhouse was correct -- it will grow here in Fargo and south but not much further north without protection. I would try the "buffalo" cultivar of the Sabin juniper. It is hardy to zone 2 which goes well into Canada. More commonly available are the arcadia and the scandia junipers which are hardy to zone 3. All three will spread 6-8 feet and get a little more than 12 inches in height, fitting in nicely in a landscape situation. The local nursery should have one or all of these or should be able to tell you how to get them.

Q: I have a new schefflera that is very bushy and dense. It is a common variety that was sent as a plant to the funeral of a family member. It seems to be growing very well and there is new growth. However, the leaves are dropping as quickly as they are growing. I have to vacuum them off the floor every other day. It now looks very sparse and no longer bushy. I water once a week and fertilize once a month. How do I keep it from dropping so many leaves? (E-mail reference)

A: The plant is going through a reaction to something in the environment such as a cool, dry or hot draft or too low a light intensity. I suggest moving it somewhere that has strong indirect light. Generally the plants that go through this catharsis do either one of two things: stabilize and produce new leaves that tolerate the new environment or die outright.

Q: Should I put Miracid (Miracle-Gro water soluble azalea, camellia, rhododendron plant food for evergreens and all other acid-loving plants) on my mugo, yew, globe arborvitae and my three Black Hills spruce this spring? How often? I couldn't actually find "Miracid" in the stores but this Miracle-Gro states "formerly Miracid." I have some brown on my Black Hills spruce evergreens and also on the globe arborvitae. (Grand Forks, N.D.)

A: Yes, it will not hurt to do so. Do it a couple of times this summer.

Q: Our huge cottonwood trees are blooming with lots of those ugly pouches (seeds/future cotton). Is there anything we can do to get rid of or inactivate them so we don't get that awful cotton this summer? (Buchanan, N.D.)

A: If I could solve that problem, I would be the most generous philanthropist in America! As far as I know, this is something we must live with if we are going to have these trees in our environment.

Q: I have a peace lily at my workplace. I’m wondering if there is any way to take a part of the plant to start one at my home without damaging or harming the original plant. Also, what is the best way to tell when the plant needs to be replanted (i.e., when the pot too small, changing soil, etc.) (E-mail reference)

A: Peace lilies can be propagated by dividing the clumps. Repot when the plant becomes pot-bound, which should be about every other year.

Q: Why do some people's jades get so big? (E-mail reference)

A: They’ve had them a long time, under ideal conditions and culture.

Q: My Amaryllis has produced seed pods which I would like to plant but am not sure when to do it. Should the pods dry on the stems or should you cut them and let them dry first? (E-mail reference)

A: Allow them to dry on the stems. That way you know they have reached full maturity.

Do you have a gardening or houseplant question? Write to Hortiscope, Box 5051, NDSU Extension Service, Fargo, ND 58105 or e-mail to Ron Smith at ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu. Note to e-mail correspondents: please identify your location (city and state) for most accurate recommendations.

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Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor: Rich Mattern, (701) 231-6136, richard.mattern@ndsu.nodak.edu