November 27, 2003

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: A gentleman just asked me if he needs to freeze grape seeds before he plants them. He is looking to plant crimson red around an archway or in a row. (Mandan, N.D.)

A: He can freeze them or plant them outside. Mother nature will take care of the freezing process in our part of the country!

Q: Some folks who may start raising commercial vegetables would like to get their hands on a chart of USDA standards if they exist. It would help them decide if the project is feasible. (Bottineau, N.D.)

A: I don't know of anything that the USDA has that isn't pre WWII. You might try Ohio State's Web site. I've used them several times. Go to: http://www.ag.ohio-state.edu/~vegnet/  It has loads of information, which should help them in making a decision. Purdue, Minnesota and Illinois have information as well, but they seem to zone in on pest control, disease and weather problems. I would like to suggest that you and your client get the NRAES 104 publication Sustainable Vegetable Production From Start up To Market. It covers everything from asparagus to tomatoes, seeding rates, expected yields, pest controls and post harvest handling. It can be ordered from Cornell University in Ithaca, N.Y., or from a local bookstore. Their email is: nraes@cornell.edu . The phone number is (607) 255-7654.

Q: I have a larger Norway maple in my backyard. I noticed this past spring that the tree had a long split from the top of the roots to where the first set of large branches spread out. It's about four to five feet in length. I talked to a local tree person who said many maples had their bark split because of the severe winter we had and the frost and thawing affects that followed. Later in the spring, another long split in the bark occurred parallel to the first one and almost as long. Another smaller split occurred on the opposite side of the tree. The tree is otherwise healthy. It had great foliage this summer and a natural fall leaf drop. Is there truly nothing I can do? Is this tree on its way out? I see other, larger, older maples that have such cracks and they are doing fine. (E-mail reference)

A: Frost cracks are common on many trees when there are sharp, rapid fluctuations in temperature and sun exposure. You could wrap the tree every fall with craft paper from the nursery, which would protect the tree from the sun on the south or west side, where frost cracks occur. Don't push the tree into rapid growth by over fertilizing and resist pruning the lower branches on that side of the tree. Most wounds are healed after a few normal winters because the trees compartmentalize the wound. Most otherwise healthy trees will do a pretty good job of defending against environmental problems, especially established ones. It is toughest on young, recently planted trees.

Q: Within the past two weeks the tips of my spider plants started turning brown. I watered them every five days during the summer. I usually water when the soil feels dry to the touch. I am going to go back to seven days. I gave them fresh soil this week and will fertilize. (E-mail reference)

A: Spider plant tip browning is so common that it is used as a way of identifying them! The chlorine, fluoride, or sodium salts in the water or soil mix cause the problem. You can try alternating tap water with distilled water to see if that reduces the browning. You shouldn't use fertilizer unless the plant is showing active growth, which is when the plant is sending out runners with plantlets on them. Other than that, you are doing nothing wrong.

Q: I have four large amate schefflera arboricola plants in my house. They are beautiful but are getting very tall. Can I cut the trunk off and put them into the soil again to grow new, single branches? (E-mail reference)

A: You can cut the trunk or main stalk back to about a 4 to 6-inch stub. Then take the trunk and cut it into 4-inch lengths and place them on their side in moist sphagnum peat moss. The peat moss should just cover the pieces. Keep it moist but not soggy and in about 6 to 8 weeks, new growth should develop on top of the trunk and roots at the base. When the roots appear long enough to support the new growth, remove and repot so everything is oriented properly, the top of the plant vertical to the horizontal, etc. Hang a dry cleaner bag over the new plants for a couple of weeks to help them acclimate on their own, then gradually remove completely. The stump you left in the pot should now also be sprouting new growth. Now you will have several plants to give away to your friends!

Q: I have an 8-foot-tall, 10-year-old ficus that is losing a lot of leaves. It has done this before in the fall or winter but not this many. I have the kids shake the trunk so the leaves fall and then, on a daily basis, rake the living room carpet. I transplanted the tree this summer into a larger, appropriately sized pot with good soil. Is it too dry or in need of fertilizer? Is this normal fall behavior for an indoor plant? I do not want to loose it after all these years! (SW Ontario, Canada)

A: The tree is simply responding to the drier air from the central heating. It will eventually stop dropping leaves or it may even drop all of them. Maintain your normal watering routine and the plant should come through for you like it has in previous years.

Q: I have some evergreen shrubs on the east side of my house that need to be trimmed so they don't block the picture window. Can you tell me, from the sample I’ve sent, the name of the shrub, the proper way and time of year to trim them? (Tyler, Minn.)

A: The sample you sent is an arborvitae but it is impossible to tell which one. They should be pruned in early spring, prior to any new growth. When you prune, do not leave a bare branch. Always leave some green foliage right below the cuts. That is where the new growth will be generated. To encourage dense growth, I would suggest giving the plants a shot of fertilizer such as Miracle Gro or something similar.

Q: Would you please send me information on a mail order source for ornamental rhubarb and sorrel plants? (Lake Bronson, Minn.)

A: Much as I tried, I could not find any sources for you. Perhaps one of our readers will know of a source and pass it on to me. Sorry!

Do you have a gardening or houseplant question? Write to Hortiscope, Box 5051, NDSU Extension Service, Fargo, ND 58105 or e-mail to Ron Smith at ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu. Note to e-mail correspondents: please identify your location (city and state) for most accurate recommendations.

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Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor: Rich Mattern, (701) 231-6136, richard.mattern@ndsu.nodak.edu