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January
15, 2004
Hortiscope
Ronald C.
Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service
Q: I have read conflicting
material regarding flowering cabbage and kale. Some sources say they are
edible, some say they are not. Also, should they be planted in the spring
along with other plants or seeds or later in the year as some material
states? (E-mail reference)
A: It depends on
your definition of edible. I consider Brussels sprouts inedible, while
other people don't. I can tell you that they are not poisonous but edible
is something else. They can be planted along with other cold tolerant
veggies in the early spring but in our area most folks will set out
transplants to get a leg up on the season.
Q: When and how can
I best prune my crepe myrtles? (E-mail reference)
A: Prune them anytime
after winter but before Aug. 1. Be careful that you don’t destroy
the natural aesthetics of this beautiful woody plant. It’s known
for its beautiful flowers, attractive bark and fall color. Prune the
stems you want removed but don't cut back to a point on the stem that
leaves a two to four foot stump; you will regret doing so.
Q: I have white powder
circles on the tops of some leaves on my jade plant. I wiped the powder
off with a paper towel using mild soap and water. Underneath the powder
are dark spots (not uniform but circle like) on the leaves. Is this mold
or bugs? (E-mail reference)
A: I would suggest
a rag soaked in rubbing alcohol to clean the upper and lower sides of
the leaves. If it is a disease of some kind that comes back, do something
to increase the air circulation around the plants. If it turns out to
be an insect, which I doubt it is, then visit a garden shop that can
provide you some guidance in selecting the appropriate, least toxic
insecticide. Insecticidal soaps and pyrethrins are among those considered
least toxic and effective.
Q: My co worker has
a tall plant in our office that looks like a palm tree. We're not sure
what it is, but she wants to cut it down because it has grown to the ceiling.
What are our options for cutting it down and how do we do it? (E-mail
reference)
A: If you cut a
palm tree down, it is finished. If you cannot move it to another location
where there is more room or give it to someone that has more room, then
dump it. Palms are monocots with their growing points at the top of
the plant. When that is removed, the plant is essentially killed.
Q: My tree farm has
good loamy soil but it is in a low area where frost has caused damage
(mainly various ash varieties) the last two springs after new leaves appeared.
Is there any product that can provide protection or are there other methods
that will work to prevent frost damage? (E-mail reference)
A: Other than relocating
them, not much can be done. Low areas will be frost traps and do damage
to crops in late spring. If covering them up with a frost blanket is
not an option or if you cannot turn sprinklers on when frosty nights
are anticipated, then I don't know what else you can do that would be
effective. Sorry!
Q: My Christmas cactus
recently dropped its last leaf. Is that OK or does that mean that it is
dying? I’m keeping it in a sunny area. Should I do anything else?
(E-mail reference)
A: If the stem is
not mushy, there is still hope. It depends on your patience. Keep it
in direct sunlight as much as possible and do not overwater. It may
send out new growth as spring approaches and the days get longer.
Q: I don't know the
name of my plants. I have replanted them and give them water once a week.
I do not have them near a window because of the cold air drafts. The leaves
do not have a healthy green look. What can I do to get nice healthy leaves?
(E-mail reference)
A: Invest in some
plant lights. Once you do that, it won’t take long before you
see new healthy leaves emerging. Give them at least 12 hours of continuous
light every day until you can move them close to a window.
Q: I came across your
web site and read everything I could find on sick shamrocks but didn't
see one that applied to what seems to be wrong with my poor house plant.
I have three pots of these and even the newest one (with pink flowers)
has now developed this dreaded disease. I have some shamrocks that have
developed spots. The plants are in good-sized pots and the newest one
was moved into a larger pot on the day I brought it home. I had aphids
about two years ago but there's not of trace of them now. The spots return
even after I cut back all the foliage. I have several other houseplants
but none of them seem to be affected by this blight. (E-mail reference)
A: The fact that
you have had shamrocks for two years is a testament to your ability
to grow houseplants with great competence! Most die after a few weeks.
I am afraid that yours has a root borne disease that cannot be cured.
The disease is apparently specific to the shamrock. You can try separating
out any part of the root system that appears diseased and then repot.
The chances it will recover are not good so I don't want to give you
too much hope. Sorry.
Q: I have a spider
plant and am wondering when it will start reproducing? Also, the stems
at the end are turning brown. Is that a problem? How do I know when to
repot it? (E-mail reference)
A: The spider
plant will start producing "spiderettes" after it matures
and has stored enough energy to carry out the mission. Once they start,
they are usually prolific producers. Make sure it gets enough bright,
indirect light. The brown tips are due to the fluoride or chlorine in
the water. Live with it because everyone else does including me. I replant
every fall after I bring them back inside.
Q: I've noticed you
haven't mentioned the organic blood solution to deter deer. I've used
it for three years in my area and on the tree farm where I work. We're
very satisfied with its results and only apply it once a year. When the
snow flies you can see the tracks actually avoid the sprayed areas. Applied
correctly, homeowners may only need to apply it three times per year.
Eventually deer get into another routine and will avoid the area even
if it’s not sprayed. Of course even this is not the magical wand
everyone wants but we won't use anything else and our trees are proof
of the results. The Web address for anyone interested is http://home.earthlink.net/~ideasofnature/
(E-mail reference)
A: Thanks for the
information. I'm sure the readers will appreciate knowing of your success.
I've not mentioned it before because I have been told by many others
that they have tried that approach with little or no success. I contend
that deer will be deterred by how hungry they are and what the alternatives
are. As you mentioned, this is not the magic wand everyone wants but
if it works for a spell, go for it!
Q: My mom says that
the brown leaf tips on my fuscia and other houseplants could be caused
by the presence of fluoride in our water. What can I do to remove the
fluoride? (E-mail reference)
A: Not much. I suggest
using bottled or distilled water. Eventually, as new growth appears,
the problem should disappear.
Q: I have a question
about my rubber tree. I’ve had it for more than a year. It sat by
a west window and grew rapidly with good colors and was very strong. I
recently replanted it to a larger pot and moved it about 10 feet back.
It is not happy. It stopped growing and several leaves turned orange then
fell off. It is my understanding that they are very diverse in their surroundings.
I thought the move would be hard but the plant would recover. It isn't.
What do you suggest? (E-mail reference)
A: What you have
done is to change the light dynamics of the plant. Also, you didn't
state why you repotted it, which is generally not done at this time
of year. Repotting should take in early fall or spring. If you can,
move the plant closer to the window or get some plant lights that shine
directly on the foliage. It will not correct the discolored leaves currently
on the plant but will encourage new growth that will be strong and healthy.
Keep the lights on for at least 12 hours a day.
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Source: Ron
Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor: Rich Mattern, (701) 231-6136, richard.mattern@ndsu.nodak.edu
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