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February
5, 2004
Hortiscope
Ronald C.
Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service
Q: Deer ate my arborvitae
but the stems and branches are still there. Will they survive the winter
and come back in the spring? Should I do something now so the deer won’t
do more damage? (E-mail reference)
A: Spray some hot
pepper or some other deer repellent on what’s left of the plants.
Don't waste your time if there is no foliage left because the plants
will not come back to compliment your landscape.
Q: My schefflera lost
many leaves after we covered our windows with plastic for the winter.
The leaves and branches turned yellow and then fell off. I recently got
the bright idea of repotting it in a bigger pot because it has been in
the same pot for almost two years. I think I made a big mistake. Now all
of its leaves and branches are turning yellow. Have I killed my plant?
I hope it doesn’t do this every winter when we cover the windows.
(E-mail reference)
A: Something in
your home environment has changed such as the temperature, humidity,
watering cycle, light or a combination of factors. Try to be patient.
The plant may be shedding leaves because of low light intensity or overwatering
which are the two most common causes of houseplant decline. Do not overwater
or fertilize. Moisten the soil and allow it to dry between watering.
Get some artificial plant lights and direct them toward the plant. In
about six weeks, if the plant is going to make it, new growth should
begin emerging. You can then step up the watering a little and begin
a dilute fertilization regime on a monthly basis. If there is no sign
of life in six weeks, you might as well dump it
Q: I have a spider
plant (Chlorophytum comosum) that has brown to black spots on its leaves
(usually on top). These spots are the size of pinheads. They have spread
from one spider plant to another. Can you please tell me what disease
this is and what I can do to stop it? Will it affect my non-spider plants?
(E-mail reference)
A: I don't know
what the spots are that you describe. You may be overwatering so the
plant is showing edema, which is a corky lesion that develops on plant
foliage when it is overwatered. Try backing off on the watering before
doing anything drastic.
Q: I am interested
in rooting a jade plant. Mine is just a baby but is growing beautifully.
I would like to root some so I have several plants in my home. (E-mail
reference)
A: Jade is easily
rooted either via leaves or stems. Simply remove and insert into a sand/peat
(50/50) media for about four to five weeks. Some rooting should have
taken place by then. Use distilled water, keep it at room temperature
and give the propagules the same amount of light as you do the mother
plant.
Q: I noticed your
question regarding slug slime on jeans. I want to know how to get those
gross creatures out of my garden. I can hardly stand to pick tomatoes
near the ground for fear of touching one. We tried to pour gasoline on
some and light them on fire but they don't burn. (Mandan, N.D.)
A: Salt, hydrated
lime, diatomaceous earth, eggshells, and "Slug-Getta." are
some of the methods for controlling the slimy, voracious creatures.
Q: I believe I have
overwatered my geranium because the leaves are turning yellow. Is there
any way to save it? (E-mail reference)
A: Stop watering.
If it isn't already dead, it should recover. When it dries out again,
give it a good watering then wait until the soil is completely dry before
watering again.
Q: We have a very
large weeping willow in our front yard. In the past week or so, we have
noticed two large "splits" in the bark. One of them is at least
two to three feet long (almost from the ground to where the willow begins
to branch out) and probably two inches wide, and an inch deep. Do you
have any idea what could be the cause and whether or not we should be
concerned? (Moorhead, Minn.)
A: Low temperatures
can cause frost cracks in some trees. There is nothing you can do right
now. This spring, check the cracks to be sure there is no decay in the
wood. If not, then you have a sound tree that simply got "nipped"
by Jack Frost. There are two things you can do. Don’t do anything
to the tree if the wood is sound and no decay is evident at the center.
If there is decay, then it would be a good idea to consider the possibility
of removing the tree if it is deemed a personal or property hazard.
If the tree has sentimental value, or is not a threat in any way and
you wish to keep it around, then drill holes through the crack every
12 inches with a 7/16-drill bit, and screw ½ inch rods through
the cracks. If you choose to do nothing, what will likely happen (assuming
a healthy tree) is the cracks will close up when spring arrives and
reopen again the following winter when the temperatures dip into the
negatives. Callous tissue would probably form over the edges (again
assuming a healthy tree) and decay might get started in the center of
the tree.
Q: Can pecans be grown
in south central North Dakota? Is if feasible to grow it in the house?
Are hickory or walnuts an option? (Napoleon, N.D.)
A: Pecans (Carya
illinoinensis) are not even marginally hardy in our area. Even if it
were, this tree along with other members of the hickory family develops
very significant taproots that make it difficult if not impossible to
transplant. A homeowner is better off obtaining the fruit and sowing
it directly where the trees are desired, taking into account the mature
size they will eventually attain. Both the hickory and black walnut
are or should be available from the Soil Conservation Service and will
grow in most areas. Often, the SCS will come out with seedlings and
plant them for the property owner if they are used for conservation
purposes. These would be bare-root, probably one-year old stock that
would be planted while dormant in the early spring. Otherwise, nurseries
and garden centers may carry them as container-grown trees that an individual
can handle as a specimen tree.
Q: I have a white
birch tree that is rotting and splitting at the base. Is there anyway
to save the tree? (E-mail reference)
A: Where there is
rotting, it is unlikely that you will be able to save it. You should
consider removing it before it poses a personal or property hazard.
If there were no rot, you could drill through the tree using a drill
bit 1/8 to 1/16th inch larger than the threaded rod you would place
through the trunk. Secure the rod using a round washer and nut, with
the washer counter-sunk to the cambial area. If rot is present, like
you think it is, then use a second washer, placing it on top of the
secured nut, and securing the second washer in place with another nut.
Wood will grow around and between the washers and strengthen its holding
power. You might want to consider using two rods to brace the trunk.
The first and most crucial one is inserted just below the crotch, while
the second one is inserted about a foot higher.
Q: Can a peace lily
tolerate the outdoors during the summer months? When should I put it outside?
If I do put it out, is there anything special that needs to be done prior
to bringing it back in? (E-mail reference)
A: Most houseplants
will benefit from being summered outdoors. Just be sure to place your
peace lily in a north location or under the shade of a densely canopied
tree. The ambient light in the shade will still be about 10 times brighter
than the interior environment, unless you had it under intense light.
Allow the plant to "dry down" toward the end of summer so
it enters a dormant phase. Bring the plant in before night temperatures
go below 50 degrees. Repot with fresh, pasteurized potting soil and
resume watering. When the plant is showing active growth, apply dilute
solutions of fertilizer about once a month.
Q: Last year I planted
scarlet nantes (on seed tape) and sweet sunshine (sample from seed company).
I harvested two oranges of good quality. The rest were yellow, fibrous
(not woody, more stringy) and had no flavor. What went wrong? I wonder
if the cause was environmental because I used two different varieties.
The site is sunny with a raised bed. (E-mail reference)
A: There are a number
of possible causes such as too much nitrogen, composting or gardening
with fresh manure, water-logged soil, too low a temperature at the time
of germination, compacted stony soil or it could be from the feeding
activity of the carrot fly larvae. The most likely cause is a disease
known as Aster Yellows, which is spread by leafhoppers.
Do you have a gardening
or houseplant question? Write to Hortiscope, Box 5051, NDSU Extension
Service, Fargo, ND 58105 or e-mail to Ron Smith at ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu.
Note to e-mail correspondents: please identify your location (city and
state) for most accurate recommendations.
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Source: Ron
Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor: Rich Mattern, (701) 231-6136, richard.mattern@ndsu.nodak.edu
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