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May 27, 2004

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: I know someone that would like to replace some Canadian red cherry trees. The trees are on the boulevard in front of the house. She has access to spring snow crab and royalty crab but she does not want a messy tree with a lot of fruit. (Minnewaukan, N.D.)

A: The spring snow crab is what she wants. This is a tree that does not bear fruit and is not messy. The bright, white flowers are knockouts as well.

 

Q: We have a 21-year-old white ash tree in our yard. Last year we noticed that several lower branches had died. Also, for the last few years there has been brown stuff hanging on the branches where leaves should be growing. This year it looks like the tree is dying. It has not leafed out and the brown stuff is everywhere. The branches still have green under the bark but the middle of the branch has a soft white center that seems spongy and dry. We really want to save this tree if at all possible. (E-mail reference)

A: Get someone out to inspect the tree, preferably an International Society of Arboriculture certified arborist. They are trained to identify tree problems, make appropriate recommendations and take the necessary action.

 

Q: My red maple still has an abundance of last fall's leaves on it. During the winter, I assumed that it had died because of this; however, I now see that it has healthy buds. It's a small tree and I don’t know how old it is. Even odder, the year before, it was the first of my trees to loose its leaves. Is my tree about to die? (Canby, Minn.)

A: Probably not. The leaves remaining on the tree did not get into sufficient dormancy last fall to cause leaf abscission. In other words, it was in a less hardened-off state than it could have been. From what you said, it sounds like the tree made it through.

 

Q: We have had a croton in our office for a long time and it seems to be very happy. My manager, who loves plants, brought in a new one to add to our environment. Unfortunately the new plant isn’t so happy. It lost all but three of its gorgeous leaves within four or five days. Other than keeping it moist, I don’t know what to do. Right now it’s a bunch of sticks in a pot. It gets plenty of light from a big bay window and I mist it in the early afternoon. Do you have any advice or know why the leaves fell off? (E-mail reference)

A: The plant is probably going through re-acclimation to a new location. Just keep up what you are doing. Don’t overwater the plant. If the plant is alive, you should start to seen new leaves forming in about three to four weeks.

 

Q: I brought back some hollyhock seeds from a friend in Wyoming. How do I plant them? I understand they are great for ground coverage which is exactly what I need. (E-mail reference)

A: Find a sunny location and then scatter the seeds where you want them to grow. Barely cover them with soil and frequently give them a light watering until they germinate.

 

Q: I inherited a jade plant last summer that was quite large. Unfortunately, the plant was promised to two people. I split the plant in two and surprisingly, it did well. My problem started when I moved my half outside. It did fine last summer but this year the leaves are falling off. The leaves are brown in the center. They are not rotting and are firm to the touch, but I don't know what to make of this or how to make it better. (E-mail reference)

A: It sounds like the plant is exhibiting edema which is a corky condition that develops from overwatering or poor drainage. It is almost never fatal to the plant. I would suggest that you repot it in a free-draining container of the next nominal size.

 

Q: We have a Lombardy poplar right at the property line. The trunk is 2.5 feet in diameter and about 50 feet high. We obviously know this tree will be trouble, because there is a block property wall within two feet, a backyard sprinkler system, a house foundation (slab) within 30 feet and we have neighbors concerned about their children's safety. We are going to have the tree removed by a local tree trimming service, but I want to prevent any future root or sucker problems. I understand that after taking down the tree, we should treat the stump and roots. Should we treat the stump or have it removed? You have recommended using RoundUp, but we have dogs and are concerned about their health. I have heard of treating stumps with rock salt. If this is the case, how much of the stump should remain, how should we prepare the stump and how should we apply the rock salt or other sucker-stopper herbicide that will translocate into the vascular system? (E-mail reference)

A: Have the tree and stump removed. As the suckers come up from the roots, spray them with a weed killer called TRIMEC. It translocates quickly and will be effective in killing the roots. Keep your dogs away from the sprouts for 24 hours after an application.

 

Q: I recently planted a blue hydrangea. After planting, we had a cold snap and snow. Two of the three branches turned brown while the third is still a beautiful blue. How do I prune the brown without killing the plant? Will they blossom again? (E-mail reference)

A: Cut the flowers back that were affected by the cold snap. The plant will flower again next spring.

 

Q: I have a red maple that was perfectly fine last year, but this spring has no leaves or buds. What could have happened? Can I save it? (E-mail reference)

A: You probably can’t save it. When a tree suddenly dies, it could be from a lightening strike or from developing a vascular disease that acted almost as fast as lightening. You could have an ISA certified arborist come out and inspect the tree to be sure it is dead and possibly find out what killed it.

 

Q: My husband and I are going to be planting five emerald green arborvitaes in our backyard. We have never planted trees like this before, so we are not sure what we need to do. Our soil is somewhat sandy, but while digging I found many huge earthworms, which makes me believe that the soil is good. Any information and help would be greatly appreciated. (E-mail reference)

A: Plant them in the soil you describe. Do not use fertilizer and water in well. The top of the rootball should be just below the surrounding soil surface. The burlap and twine should be cut off the stem after the trees are placed in their planting site. Mulch with peat moss and water once a week unless you get adequate rainfall.

 

Q: Part of my lawn was dormant seeded last fall. The grass is now two or more inches high. Should I try to water it now or wait for rain? When is the best time to apply a starter fertilizer? I'm hesitant to walk on the grass since it is so new. (Fargo, N.D.)

A: You know how dependable our weather is. Young seedlings need water, so if you can provide some, it will help the young plants grow. Apply fertilizer after you have mowed it three times. Your light step will not hurt the grass.

 

Q: I just planted a row of six foot emerald arborvitae trees. A few of the trees are turning brown at the top. Is this something to be worried about? The landscaper fertilized them and I water them once a week or so. (E-mail reference)

A: That discoloration you are seeing could be the result of transporting the plants to your site for planting. Many times the landscape crews (I used to be on one!) will drive too fast, and the plants lose moisture. If new growth doesn't cover it up, I would contact your nursery to see if some replacement options can be worked out.

 

Q: When we moved here there were three lilacs in the yard which were pruned to a tree shape. Last year they all flowered beautifully and I only pruned the blossoms back after they finished flowering. This spring one of them has very small leaves and very small flower heads. It is planted in the southeast part of the garden in a sun/shade area. When we moved in we put rock mulch over the entire area. Could the rocks affect the tree or could the few suckers at the bottom retard the growth? (E-mail reference)

A: My bet is the rock is having a negative impact. The rock does not condition the soil and it raises the temperature during the summer. In all likelihood, you have placed the rock over either a plastic or geotextile fiber mulch. Try removing the rocks and mulch to see if the plants perk up next spring. If that doesn't work, then it could be suffering from armillaria root rot. If that's the case, the plant is doomed.

 

Do you have a gardening or houseplant question? Write to Hortiscope, Box 5051, NDSU Extension Service, Fargo, ND 58105 or e-mail to Ron Smith at ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu. Note to e-mail correspondents: please identify your location (city and state) for most accurate recommendations.

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Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor: Rich Mattern, (701) 231-6136, richard.mattern@ndsu.nodak.edu

 


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