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June 24, 2004

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: The leaves of my maple trees have multiple tiny little bumps on them. The bumps don’t seem to impair the growth on this or any other (varieties) trees on my grounds. Do you have any suggestions as to what this is and how to rectify it? (e-mail reference)

A: Those bumps are known as bladder or nipple gall growths. They are caused by mite larvae that feed inside the leaf tissue. The rash or bump type of growth you are seeing is the result of this feeding activity. The only damage to the tree is cosmetic. There is no need for treatment, so enjoy one of nature's interesting associations.

 

Q: What can you do with a bleeding heart after a hard freeze? It looks like it has been cooked. (Stanley, N.D.)

A: Just let nature take its course. It is probably just surface damage. The plant may come back later this season or next. There is nothing you can do after the fact.

 

Q: Why would oriental lily bulbs planted a month ago not be emerging by now? I dug one out and it still looks exactly like when I planted it. (Grace City, N.D.)

A: We need warmer temperatures! They are probably dead if there is no growth by Father's Day.

 

Q: I read that Trimec is good for killing dandelions. The dandelions at my place are interspersed among the tulips. Would Trimec bother the tulips?

A: You bet it would! Wait until the tulip foliage dies down. In late August or early September, use a less potent and soil inactive herbicide to kill the dandelions. Make sure the material does not have dicamba as part of the formula. You will get control of both the mother plants and the newly emerged seedlings.

 

Q: My first question is about our chokecherry trees. We have a grove of about 10 thin, tall trees. They have been here for at least 10 years (probably more). About three or four years ago we thinned them out so grass would grow. The power company also trimmed the tops of two of them a year or two ago. Last year they leafed-out in May, turned orange by June, lost their leaves by July and produced no berries. This year, almost no leaves are growing except on a few lower branches on one or two of them. Are they dead? Is there any hope? We use spectracide on our lawn several times a year to kill creeping Charlie and a pre-emergent weed/fertilizer in fall and spring, but we have done that every year. Did we do something wrong? Should we cut them down or give them time? Please answer soon, as the tree trimmers are coming for another tree before long. My second question is about my pea plants. I have tried several varieties, but every year they grow I get yummy peas for a couple weeks and then they get a white powdery coating all over them, turn yellow and dry up. Why does this happen, and is there anything I can do? I love fresh peas and it makes me so sad every year. (Moorhead, Minn.)

A: The chokecherries are probably history. Whether or not it was the herbicide treatments, I don't know. The material that controls creeping Charlie is also soil active and can be taken up via the roots of other plants such as woody plants. There are several products on the market with dicamba as the active ingredient. Peas are susceptible to mildew, a fungus disease. Grow the peas in a very well-drained soil with plenty of direct sunlight and good air circulation. Plant in a different location every year, with a three year rotation before you plant in the same location. Also, look for mildew resistant varieties of peas and try not to splash water on the foliage when irrigating.

 

Q: We want to purchase arborvitae to screen a storage area and would like some advice as to the best type. We would like it to grow wide, but not terribly high. One store has emerald and techny, but the techny costs slightly more. Is there another variety you would recommend? We have one on the other side of the yard, but don't know what it is. We would like to match it if possible. (Minneapolis, Minn.)

A: What you have and probably want is the techny arborvitae. The emerald is noted for its narrow upright growth, while the techny is noted for its broader growth.

 

Q: Something is eating my hostas. Whatever it is, it sometimes starts in the middle and eats holes and other times it starts on the outside edges. I thought maybe it was birds, but I have never seen any near them. Is there anything I can spray to keep away whatever is eating them?
(e-mail reference)

A: Very likely the damage is from slug feeding. Slugs and hostas go together like peanut butter and jelly. There are many ways to control slugs; you just have to choose the method. You can use slug hotels, bait, diatomaceous earth, egg shells and even stale beer.

 

Q: I have two lilac bushes that are relatively close to my house so I try to keep them small and under control. However, I constantly get suckers coming up from the roots. How can I get rid of these suckers without hurting the bush? (e-mail reference)

A: There is a product on the market called Sucker Stopper RTU (Ready To Use). It is not cheap, but testimonials have said that it works. I haven't researched it so you will have to believe the testimonials. Other than that, there is nothing else available as far as I know.

 

Q: A week ago I was helping my aunt plant a cactus plant. I accidentally grabbed the cactus and tiny spores got into my hand. I tried to pull them out, but some broke off in my hand and are still there. What can I do to get them out and are the spores poisonous? (e-mail reference)

A: They are not poisonous, so stop worrying. Go to a dermatologist at your earliest convenience to get the spine pieces removed. Often times they just fester out on their own without medical attention.

 

Q: I have a yellow tame rose that has lots of dead branches in it. Can it be cut down to the ground this fall or should I just cut out the dead parts? How can I start new bushes from the old? There are lots of sprouts coming up around it. (Redfield, S.D.)

A: Cut it back to the green wood to clean it up. This fall, cut the branches back to about 12 inches and cover with soil and leaves. Those sprouts are from the roots, not the scion or budwood. Take green cuttings this summer or collect the fruits if any form after the flowers are faded and allow them to dry. Remove the seed and see what happens when you sow them.

 

Q: I planted about 15 golden privit three years ago, but they do not look good. Several shoots are dead and more are dying. They are planted under a couple of rather large oak trees, so it is shaded quite a bit. If shading is a big problem, what type of hedge can I plant that will grow four to six feet tall? (e-mail reference)

A: Golden or any other privet needs as much sunlight as they can get. A good hedge for that situation would be currant. There are several species and cultivars that a local nursery would have available.

 

Q: I have a ficus tree that is about six years old. It is doing well except on the root base and trunk where large brown knots are forming. Would you please let me know if these knots are a problem? (e-mail reference)

A: I have no idea what the brown knots could be. Have someone locally such as your county or state extension horticulturist look at it. If it is not harming the tree, then don't be concerned. It could be callus growth caused by a superficial injury.

 

Q: I bought a dieffenbachia about six years ago. Lately it has developed about eight pods. I want to collect the seed but I am not sure how long I have to wait before the seeds are ready. (e-mail reference)

A: I cannot find any information in my references. My guess would be to allow the pods to dry naturally and then remove the seeds. Sow them no deeper than they are large, keep them warm and moist and see what happens.

 

Q: I planted a lilac shrub two years ago. This year a large piece broke off just as some buds were starting to open. Is there anything I can do to save this piece? (e-mail reference)

A: No. Treat it as a cutting and place it in a vase with tepid water and an unbuffered aspirin. It will probably flower somewhat before dying. It is living off the stored carbohydrates in the stem of the branch. Once depleted, the leaves will die.

 

Q: We are in the process of planting emerald green arborvitae. What kind of mulch would you recommend? (e-mail reference)

A: A bark or peat mulch no more than four inches thick. Never use stone mulch and do not put plastic over the roots to keep the weeds down.

 

Q: I have two apple trees that could be 60 to 70 years old. Ninety-five percent of the interior of one tree trunk is gone. All that remains is the bark and an inner layer about one inch thick. The other tree is not much better. They have been this way for 18 years (when I moved in). They still flower and fruit, and the only care I give them is to occasionally remove dead branches. How long do apple trees normally live? (e-mail reference)

A: You have reached the end point. There is no pre-programmed life expectancy for apple trees. It mostly depends on the care they get. I have seen trees like yours go on for another decade or more or until a good wind blows them down. Enjoy them while you can!

 

Q: I have a lilac bush that is growing nicely, but the blossoms never fully bloom. Someone told me that you must have a male and female plant for them to bloom. Is this true? (e-mail reference)

A: That is not true. Poor blooming could be due to a number of factors. You may be using a fertilizer with too much nitrogen in it such as the material that is used for lawns. You may have a situation where the lilac is not getting enough sun. Lilacs need full sun to bloom well. Any pruning after July 1, in general, risks the removal of the flower buds that have formed for the next growing season. The bush may be planted too deep or you may be using a cultivar that is not adapted to your particular climate.

 

Do you have a gardening or houseplant question? Write to Hortiscope, Box 5051, NDSU Extension Service, Fargo, ND 58105 or e-mail to Ron Smith at ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu. Note to e-mail correspondents: please identify your location (city and state) for most accurate recommendations.

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Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor:
Rich Mattern, (701) 231-6136, richard.mattern@ndsu.nodak.edu

 


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