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July 1, 2004

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: Why are my peonies turning very dark to black and drying out like bamboo? (e-mail reference)

A: The peonies are likely afflicted with a disease known as botrytis. This is a water-borne disease, requiring cool, damp weather for best growth and sporulation. For the best control, remove the infected plant parts and try to find ways to quickly dry the plants by increasing sunshine, air circulation, and reducing watering cycles and duration. Preventative sprays such as captan, chlorothalonil, and benomyl can also be used. This is assuming that the peonies are not planted too deep. If they are, then pull some soil from the crown so that the eyes or buds are no more than one inch below the soil surface.

 

Q: I received 12 calla lily bulbs for my birthday three years ago. The instructions told me to plant the bulbs (outdoors) after the new moon in June. I did that and by the end of July I had 12 flowers that stayed beautiful and healthy until November. The bulbs had multiplied and I had 22 bulbs after the first year which I dug up and stored until the following June. They were planted in the same location as the first year. The second year the flowers did not bloom, but the foliage grew strong and tall. Do you have any advice? (e-mail reference)

A: Last year's growth was to hopefully build up carbohydrate storage for blooming this year. I suggest planting them again as you have in the past. If they do not bloom, it may take another growing season. Be patient because Mother Nature takes her time in doing what she does, which is often not to our liking.

Q: I wanted to plant some Juneberries in my yard, but my sister told me that I should plant serviceberries instead. Is there a difference between the two plants? Also, in my yard grass, I have circular areas of grass developing that are different than what was planted. The grass has a wide blade and seems to spread by underground rhizomes. Do you have an idea what kind of grass this is? (e-mail reference)

A: Juneberries, serviceberries, Saskatoons, shadblow and probably more refer to the same plant, Amelanchier spp. It just depends on what part of North America you come from. The grass is likely quackgrass. There is no selective means of controlling it.

 

Q: How short should I cut geranium plants before I plant them outdoors? Also, why would leaves fall off my houseplant? (e-mail reference)

A: Cut the geraniums back to about three inch stubs. They should take off beautifully after being planted outdoors and given a shot of Miracle-Gro. Leaf-drop on houseplants is due to any one or a combination of too low a light intensity, too dry an atmosphere, fluctuations in watering schedules, a cold or hot air draft, insufficient nutrients or watering with cold tap water instead of tepid water.

 

Q: Does Scott's lawn fertilizer/crabgrass preventer applied with a broadcast spreader hurt evergreen and deciduous shrubs? The label doesn't state if I should keep a certain distance from the shrubs. Broadcasting makes it difficult to control the spread. (e-mail reference)

A: It won't hurt the shrubs. Crabgrass is a warm season annual and a monocot while shrubs are woody plants and dicots. The crabgrass preventer is a pre-emergent herbicide which means it kills the seedling before it can emerge through the soil because of the chemical barrier it establishes. I still wouldn't recklessly allow the product to spread into a woody plant bed of shrubs. There is such a thing as collateral damage when using herbicides.

 

Q: I have an area under some evergreens (cedar and spruce) where grass won’t grow. I tried all kinds of grass seeds with no results. There is enough sun. What am I doing wrong? (e-mail reference)

A: Rake off all the needle litter down to the bare soil. Then take a little lime and rake it into the soil surface. Use about 1 kg per 93 square meters. Bring in enough fresh soil to cover the area about 10 centimeters thick. When planting, use a mixture of Kentucky bluegrass and creeping red fescue.

 

Q: I have a spider plant with many babies on it. It is a hanging plant so I cannot keep it attached to the mother when I plant it. Can I put it in water and let the roots grow and then plant it? (e-mail reference)

A: Sure, it’s done all the time!

 

Q: I have two-year-old evergreens that were planted by the Soil Conservation Service. Some have brown needles on them. I was told there is spray for infected trees, but it has to be used this month. Do you know what the spray is and where I can get it? (Ypsilanti, N.D.)

A: I doubt your young trees are suffering from needlecast disease. More likely it is the result of winter weather stress. If it is needlecast disease, you should purchase some Bravo (Chlorothalonil) to control it. Apply it now and again in July.

 

Q: I would like to know what kind of pumpkins to grow for seed and where to purchase them. We like to roast the seeds for eating. (Tappen, N.D.)

A: All pumpkin/squash seeds are edible. While the hulls are edible, the seed is more easily consumed if it is a hull-less cultivar such as triple-treat, Hungarian mammoth or Lady Godiva. Other cultivars to consider are snackpack and trick or treat. Most major seed companies such as Burpee, Ferry-Morse and NK should carry an assortment.

 

Q: In late summer last year my variegated dogwood and an Engelman ivy vine began to look sickly. By fall the leaves became crisp and dried up, never taking on fall coloring. What should I do this year to avoid this from happening again? I’ve always found dogwood to be disease-free until now. (Carrington, N.D.)

A: Your plants never completely hardened off last fall. It could be due to excess rain, irrigation or high fertility levels. Try to avoid the latter two going into the fall and the plants should be alright.

 

Q: We had elm trees on our berm, but they got Dutch elm disease three or four years ago. We had them cut down and the stumps ground down. Now I have a tough time growing grass and have lots of mushrooms. How do I get rid of the mushrooms? I planted grass seed and put burlap down to get the grass to grow. I’ve got the grass coming through the burlap, but still have trouble with mushrooms. (Jamestown, N.D.)

A: The mushrooms are a response to the decaying wood and roots left in the soil. They are harmless and will die down when the weather dries up a little. The grass should grow despite the mushrooms. The only way to get rid of the mushrooms is to excavate all wood-containing soil from the site.

 

Q: We have a dogwood hedge that is about 10-years-old. We do not want it to get any taller and we need to make it narrower because it is beginning to get in the way of cars on our driveway. Is there a proper time to prune it and how do I keep it trimmed? (Tyler, Minn.)

A: It is probably still early enough for you to do some selective pruning. Go right to the base of the plant and remove a third of the oldest canes. This will not destroy the aesthetics of your hedge.

 

Q: We took down a huge evergreen tree in our yard and we would like to fill in the space with some shrubs, flowers and grass. We are wondering if we have to add something to the soil before we plant. (Napoleon, N.D.)

A: Just rake the soil and plant!

 

Q: I have a problem with my plum tree. When the fruit gets to the size of small grapes, some turn blue as though they were ripening. They then rot and fall off. I suspect a small insect is laying eggs on or in them. What can I do to reduce this damage? Also, deer think that I plant beets solely for their use. I’ve heard that a hot pepper solution sprayed on the leaves curbs their appetite. Do you have a recipe for this solution or some other thoughts on the subject? (Nome, N.D.)

A: To prevent insect activity on your plum tree, you need to spray with an insecticide such as Sevin when bees are not present. Do so at full bloom and about seven days later. You can prepare your own pepper spray, but it is safer (I'm not kidding!) to purchase some RTU material. If they can tolerate that kind of burn, let them have it!

 

Q: I've got three varieties of tomato growing in my garden: Earl girl, better boy and brandywine. My brandywine plants have leaves that are yellowing and necrotic from tip to stem. Is this variety more susceptible to disease? Do they have some mineral requirement that the others don't? (e-mail reference)

A: Brandywines do not have special requirements. If the problem is isolated to a few leaves and stems, carefully cut those off and dispose of them. If the malady continues to progress, then get rid of them and replant.

 

Q: I recently planted a Haroldson apple tree. I bought some shredded red cedar bark to mulch a nearby flower bed and was also going to put some around the tree to hold in moisture. I was ready to open the bag when I remembered something about red cedar rust and apple trees. Am I better off using something else? (Ashley, N.D.)

A: Use the cedar mulch. The pathogen is only active on living tissue. The mulch has been composted which destroys most pathogens.

 

Q: We planted a Patmore ash tree this spring. It started getting green buds on it during a week of nice weather in April but then we had a week of cold weather and freezing temperatures at night. Now the tree no longer has any green buds. Will this tree develop green buds and leaf-out this year? Since this is a new tree, what type of fertilizer do you recommend? (Bismarck, N.D.)

A: No fertilizer please! The tree will re-leaf a little later. Mother Nature, in her wisdom, has programmed in such contingencies. Just don't let the tree become water stressed this summer.

 

Do you have a gardening or houseplant question? Write to Hortiscope, Box 5051, NDSU Extension Service, Fargo, ND 58105 or e-mail to Ron Smith at ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu. Note to e-mail correspondents: please identify your location (city and state) for most accurate recommendations.

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Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor:
Rich Mattern, (701) 231-6136, richard.mattern@ndsu.nodak.edu

 


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