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August 12, 2004

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: We bought a house last summer that came with a lot of land. In the middle of about eight acres of grass is a small patch of what appears to be rhubarb. I am assuming it was there last summer, but it would have been mowed down. I love rhubarb and would like to move it elsewhere. Does it do better in the shade or full sun? Does it need dry or wet soil? (e-mail reference)

A: It is probably rhubarb. Since it is thriving where it presently is, why not mow around it this year? Early next spring, as soon as the soil can be dug, move it to a spot with similar conditions. Rhubarb thrives in full-sun and moderately well-drained conditions. If you can't wait that long, carefully dig up about a third of the stalks, with rootballs, and move them to their new home. Enjoy!

 

Q: I have a creeping hydrangea that has been trained to climb an iron lattice. It gets half-day sun. This is my third year without blooms. This spring it grew more vigorously, but still no flowers. Any advice? (e-mail reference)

A: Be patient. The vine will bloom when it reaches maturity. For now, it is enjoying the vigor of its youth by remaining vegetative and attempting to cover as much area as possible. You can encourage maturation by driving a sharp-edge spade into the ground in a couple of areas to sever some of the roots. Also, don't be generous with high nitrogen fertilizers. These actions, combined with patience, should result in flowers next season.

 

Q: A lady in town is having a lot of trouble with a lawn that was hydroseeded last year. She has many bare spots and is looking for tips on how to get rid of these patches. The company that did the hydroseeding says it is her problem. Personally, I don't think she watered enough early on, but I'm not an expert. (Dickinson, N.D.)

A: I agree with you. Most people fail to water enough after hydroseeding. I would advise her to contract with the company again to spot hydroseed the bare areas. The company is correct in saying it is her problem, but they shouldn't abandon her completely either. She may be able to negotiate a good price for the touch up job.

 

Q: I have three flowering crabs, one white and two red. Last spring the white and one red were loaded with flowers, more than I’ve ever seen in the 15 years I’ve had them. When the flowering was done, I noticed they were really thin on leaves. This spring they were dead. The other red one is okay. They are in a row within 20 feet of each other. What happened? Also, my Dutch elm is loaded with what might be seeds. They are small, round, flat pieces. I’ve had the tree for 20 years, but have never seen it like this before. It, like the flowering crabs the year before, has very few leaves on it. My other elms seem to be fine. It’s almost like they spent all their energy on flowers and seeds. (Hartford, S.D.)

A: When a tree puts on a heavy reproductive show, it is a pretty good indication it will soon die. The cause could be armillaria root rot. It happens to many people, including me. You should remove the trees as soon as possible and replace them with a different species.

 

Q: We recently planted some flowers in our front yard. The bunnies love the petunias and some of the other flowers. Our local hardware store told me to sprinkle moth balls in the flower bed to keep the bunnies away. So far, it doesn't seem to be working. Also, we saw a grackle pick a moth ball and rub its feathers with it. Have you ever heard of this before and will the moth balls harm the grackle? What do you recommend to keep rabbits from devouring our flowers? I don't believe that trapping them will be effective because the neighborhood seems to be overrun with the fluffy critters! (e-mail reference)

A: Welcome to the club; rabbits are the biggest domestic horticulturist's problem. The grackle is a smart bird. It recognizes that moth balls are an effective de-bugger, so it uses them as part of its grooming and cleaning routine. Don't worry, the grackle will survive and thrive. We have found that moth balls are totally ineffective at controlling bunnies or mice, but great at controlling moths. What I have found that works is Scat, a hot pepper (capsaicin) spray. They taste it once and never come back. If the local hardware store doesn't have it, most local and national garden centers do.

 

Q: My maple tree is at least 18-years-old and appeared healthy until this spring. It leafed-out beautifully, but now its leaves are falling and there are black streaks on the bark. I don't see any bugs or worms on it. (e-mail reference)

A: Have an International Society of Arboriculture certified arborist inspect the tree. My guesses could be way off the mark.

 

Q: I had a young lady in with leaves from a schefflera plant. The underside had little bumps that resemble rust spots. Any suggestions? I also had a stop in with pepper plants that have been chewed off at ground level. The culprit did not eat the plants. I thought of rabbits, but they would eat the plants. Could the problem be pocket gophers? (Lisbon, N.D.)

A: The spots could be corky lesions from overwatering. The spots could also be caused by, depending on their size, a scale insect infestation. Scrape a couple with your fingernail and see if they smear off. If they do, then you have a scale infestation. If scraping leaves a small hole and doesn’t smear, then it is an overwatering problem. Pepper plants and other tender vegetables are subject to cutworm activity, which is very likely what happened in this case. It can be controlled via non-chemical means. Wrap aluminum foil around the base of the plant, making sure it goes below the soil line. Plants can also be protected by covering them with milk cartons. There are also plenty of soil applied chemicals that can be used.

 

Q: I had someone call saying he recently planted some blueberry bushes. The booklet that came with them recommends using aluminum sulfate to lower the soil ph. He can’t find aluminum sulfate around here, so he is wondering if doubling up on Miracid would do the trick. (Mandan, N.D.)

A: Doubling up on Miracid would kill the plant. He needs to scour the Internet to find a source or go through garden supply catalogs. If he still can’t find it, he should use powdered sulfur and work it into the soil, which should be almost 100 percent sphagnum peat moss.

 

Q: Can you tell me where I can get a Queen Ann’s lace plant? (Jamestown, N.D.)

A: Queen Anne’s lace, or wild carrot, is a member of the parsley family. It is considered a weed throughout the country. It may not be hardy for our area, but even if it was, I don’t think the weed control folks would want it getting established. In spite of the negative comments, this plant has a reputation as a medicinal plant and is marketed around the world by herbalists.

 

Q: Last summer my cotoneaster hedge became highly infected with fire blight. I waited until winter to cut it down to six inches above the ground. While there was new growth this spring, I decided to remove it completely. Do I need to remove any of the soil before planting a new hedge? The area gets two to three hours of sun a day. I am thinking of trying alpine currant. Should I stay with cotoneaster? Is there another hedge that would be better? (e-mail reference)

A: No need to remove the soil. The alpine currant would be a refreshing change over the cotoneaster hedge, which is over-planted in our region.

 

Q: I purchased two hydrangea hobella plants three years ago and planted them in front of my home. They get some morning sun. They flowered the first year, but haven’t since. The tag that came with the plants states that this plant is as hardy as other hydrangea macrophylla and can sustain temperatures to zero degrees. What can I do to get the plants to start flowering? Someone told me to prune them back, which I did this spring. After reading some of the advice you gave others, I don't think I should have! (e-mail reference)

A: Lucky you! These are hard to find plants. Actually, you should not have pruned them according to the Spring Hills Nursery folks. They recommend nipping them back after the blooms are finished. It apparently sets flower buds on the previous season's growth, so a spring pruning would wipe out any flower buds that were set last summer. They claim this hybrid is hardy down to 10 below.

 

Q: I have a potentella that looks terrible. Its mate died last year. Should I be pruning this bush in the fall or spring? There is no shape to it at all. It just grows all over the place and has a lot of exposed brown branches. (Fargo, N.D.)

A: They tend to get that way with age. You should mow it down early next spring before it leafs-out. The flush of new growth that follows can be easily shaped.

 

Q: My neighbor just spot seeded his lawn with a tall fescue blend (Oregon origin). I was under the impression that tall fescue should not be grown in our area because of its contrasting coarse texture, color and clumping nature as compared to our blue grasses and fescues. I know tall fescues are used on football fields in the south, but do we want this seed sold in our area? I have fought this grass as a weed for many people and was surprised to see it being sold here. (e-mail reference)

A: If your neighbor spot seeded his bluegrass lawn with tall fescue, the resulting growth will be a weed. Its coarse texture and clumping growth characteristics will be a sharp contrast to the more uniform, rhizomatous nature of Kentucky bluegrass. Tall fescue, sowed exclusively as a species blend and not a mixture, can make a very attractive, durable and water-efficient (drought -resistant) lawn. I had a bonanza tall fescue lawn in my back yard for over 10 years and have variety trialed it in Fargo, Dickinson and Williston.

 

Do you have a gardening or houseplant question? Write to Hortiscope, Box 5051, NDSU Extension Service, Fargo, ND 58105 or e-mail to Ron Smith at ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu. Note to e-mail correspondents: please identify your location (city and state) for most accurate recommendations.

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Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor:
Rich Mattern, (701) 231-6136, richard.mattern@ndsu.nodak.edu


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