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September 2, 2004

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: I planted a small crop of strawberry plants this year and was thrilled to see new little berries forming. My 3-year-old son has been eagerly watching them as well and was disappointed when one day we had many nice berries that were beginning to ripen and the next day they were all gone! Do you have any idea what kind of critters would be feasting on them (we used an organic spray to deter deer and rabbits) and if so, what might we use to keep them away? (e-mail reference)

A: Rabbits and birds are the big culprits along with field mice and squirrels - take your pick - there is no honor among thieves when it comes to snatching fresh strawberries! My wife has resorted to surrounding the two patches we have with chicken wire to keep critters away. The wire also covers the tops of the berries.

 

Q: I planted four hollyhocks this year. They get full afternoon sun. Two of them are blooming, but all seem to have spots on the lower leaves that eventually turn the leaves yellow. Do I have some type of fungus? Any other ideas as to what might be wrong? I so wanted to grow them as my grandmother used to have a beautiful garden with plenty of hollyhocks. Any help would be appreciated! (e-mail reference)

A: Rust - hollyhocks are prone to it. You have to get a preemptive fungicide down in the early spring to keep it from developing.

 

Q: What types of trees do you suggest we plant on a piece of land we acquired in Otter Tail County Minn.? We hit water about 14 to 16 inches down when we dug a hole in the back of our property (this week). It is about 36 inches from the water table in the front of our property. In the middle of our property we have a stand of old-growth basswoods. We were thinking of river birch in the back part of our property or some kind of willow, but I personally think willows are too messy. Highway 78 runs right behind our property so we would like some kind of barrier from the noise. (e-mail reference)

A: Go for the linden if you already have one on your property. You might want to contact the Otter Tail County Master Gardeners for some help. They are a gung-ho bunch of devotees that love to assist in garden/landscape undertakings. Contact the County Extension Office.

 

Q: My rhubarb is next to a large crop of raspberries. It seems to be dying out. Is there a problem here? Also, I have a vine growing in my yard that started in the neighbor’s yard and I cannot get rid of it. It’s climbing on everything and suffocating my other plants and flowering shrubs and is even climbing up my delicious apple tree now. I see sprouts coming up out in the middle of the yard. I've tried cutting the roots, etc., but nothing seems to help. (e-mail reference)

A: It is suggested that rhubarb be divided at three to five year intervals. Get together with your neighbor to develop a plan of attack to get rid of this pest before it swallows up your property - sounds like kudzu!

 

Q: I had someone call in wondering about her tomato and potato plants. She described the plants as having thick leaves that curl upward. I suggested it may be pesticide damage. She had the same problem last year. The plants did get better, but it was so late in the season they didn’t produce any fruit. She also said that about 10 plants out of 100 appear healthy, but the others all exhibit the same symptoms I described. I asked if the healthy plants were all in one area, and she said that they are scattered all over. (Carson, N.D.)

A: Your analysis sounds about right - but it could also be any number of problems, or simply a characteristic of the cultivar. It could also be that this particular person is saving their seed every year and is carrying some disease over on the seed. That is the extent of my guesses - beyond that, samples should be sent into the diagnostic lab.

 

Q: I have a plum tree in my yard that is bearing plums for the first time, but every plum has a worm in it. Is there anything I can do to get rid of the worms now or stop them next year? (e-mail reference)

A: Pick off all the plums with worm infestation and destroy them. Clean up all litter this fall. Next spring; spray the tree with lime-sulfur and then dormant oil before the leaves come out. Spray again with Sevin when the leaves begin coming out and again 10 days later, but do so only when the bees are not active.

 

Q: I would like to try to fashion a fence-like structure, training the branches of three trees. Is it harmful to trim unwanted branches throughout the year? Am I able to somehow top the tree to keep it around 8 to10 feet? I know this is usually done with dwarf trees, but these were freebies, and I don't have a lot of room? (e-mail reference)

A: Yes to both of your questions. Keep the tree growing in two dimensions - vertical and horizontal against the wall or structure. This is not a difficult task, just one that needs regular attention.

 

Q: Our dog was leashed to a maple tree. My children forgot to get her and she clawed some of the bark off the tree. What can I do to save the tree? (e-mail reference)

A: Shame on the children! I hope their dog has forgiven them, they usually do so quicker than humans do each other. It should heal if the tree was not girdled. Go to where she clawed and tidy up the scratches and remove all loose bark with a sharp knife. Keep the tree vigorous and keep the dog away from it.

 

Q: I apologize for not remembering the answer that you regularly have in your articles about what should be used to remove clover from a lawn. I never had to worry about clover until this year. Also, I am looking for something safe for cats and dogs since they are around the yard a lot.
(Walcott, N.D.)

A: Trimec, when applied and allowed to dry for 24 hours, will not be harmful to animals that roam the yard. Keep the lawn fertilized and the clover will not be a problem in the future.

 

Q: I planted a Northwood red maple two years ago as a bareroot tree. The first year it seemed fine, but really didn't do much and the leaves seemed a little pale. This year the leaves opened, but are noticeably yellow with a thin line of green along the veins. Some of the leaves are turning brown. Any idea what its problem is? (e-mail reference)

A: It sounds like a classic case of iron chlorosis. Try to get some iron-containing fertilizer or chelated iron and apply it to the root system. This may correct the problem if it isn't too far gone or the pH of the soil isn’t excessively high.

 

Q: My fuchsia is losing all its leaves and looks terrible. The greenhouse where it was purchased said it’s the weather and told me to cut it back. I think bugs. What is your thought? (Lisbon, N.D.)

A: It looks more like weather damage than an insect problem. Follow the advice from the greenhouse.

 

Q: About five years ago we purchased an old lake place. After much remodeling, landscaping, etc. we are now ready to tackle our lawn, which is about 75 percent weeds. What can we use to kill the weeds and fertilize the grass without harming the lake water? Our lot is sloped, so anything we put on it will likely end up in the lake. Also what grass seed would you recommend? The soil is rather sandy and there is intermittent sun and shade. (Waubun, Minn.)

A: I would suggest that you establish a filter system by laying sod along the edge of your property next to the lake. Simply till that up lightly, grade to a finished level and lay a strip of sod. Give it about 30 days to establish a root system then go ahead and kill the weeds with Round-up. Wait a week after applying, then mow everything down and seed with a general purpose mix such as Kentucky bluegrass, creeping red fescue and perennial ryegrass.

 

Q: I have a Sansevieria plant (Mother-in-law tongue) that is the S. trifasciata Laurenti. I have had it for many years and I have never known it to bloom before, but it is blooming now. My parents and aunt, for as long as I can remember, never had one that bloomed. I took pictures to the town café to see if anyone had ever known of the plant to bloom, but all said no. Some said that it might die because some plants do that before they die. Will it die? If so, is there a way I can save it? I don’t want to lose it because it belonged to my mother who has passed away. If I propagate the plant, will it still have the stripes on the leaves like the old plant? I heard it would not. (Jud, N.D.)

A: It will not die; just cut the flower stalk off. It all depends on the propagation method. With leaf cuttings, the stripes will be lost; if you divide the crown, the stripes will be retained.

 

Q: We moved into a house three years ago and the grass/yard was in bad shape. The previous owner had aerated the yard before we moved, but I don’t think it was fertilized. I use crab grass preventer/fertilizer in the spring, followed later with a weed and feed. Mid summer, just fertilizer, and in the late fall, winterizer/fertilizer. The front yard, facing south is very shaded so it takes some time to get going in the spring but does turn nice and green. The back yard faces north and has plenty of sunshine. The grass grows very fast and I mow it about three times per week at about 3 to 3.5 inches in length. I use a mulcher and very seldom bag it. The problem is that the grass turns yellow. The back yard, which gets a lot of sun, is now turning yellow and later in the year the shaded areas will start to turn yellow. I thought I was over-watering last year, but letting it dry did not cure the problem. Is possible that I am mulching too much and the grass is not getting enough oxygen? (Fargo, N.D.)

A: The grass turning yellow doesn’t make sense to me. Generally, grass yellowing under the conditions similar to yours is when too much is removed at a particular cutting, but with your mowing two to three times a week that couldn't be possible. The only other potential problem is excessive nitrogen which renders the grass too lush and weak. I suggest getting a soil sample into the soil testing lab and having the N, P, K, pH, soluble salts, and organic matter checked. You need about a sandwich bag full of soil, no grass or thatch. That might provide a clue as to what is going on.

 

Q: I have a moongold apricot tree that I planted this year. I understand I need to plant another one to provide pollination. Do I need a certain variety? My first choice would be the scout, but is there another that you would recommend? (McVille, N.D.)

A: Get another tree even though some apricots are self-fruitful; they will always produce better with another cultivar to cross pollinate. Just be careful in the use of any insecticides so the bee population can remain high and active. The cultivar you mentioned is as good as any.

 

Q: I had a lady call about her fruit trees. We are under a frost warning for tonight and she is wondering if there is anything she can do to protect her plum tree. It has small fruit on it. Also, I had a question concerning tomatoes and potatoes. The tops froze off of the tomatoes, but the bottoms seem okay. The potatoes were in blossom and the tops froze. (Dickinson, N.D.)

A: The tree should be ok, and the tomatoes and potatoes should come out of the frost damage with minimal to no consequences. Just have the clients cut the damaged tops back to prevent secondary infections from setting in.

 

Do you have a gardening or houseplant question? Write to Hortiscope, Box 5051, NDSU Extension Service, Fargo, ND 58105 or e-mail to Ron Smith at ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu. Note to e-mail correspondents: please identify your location (city and state) for most accurate recommendations.

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Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor:
Rich Mattern, (701) 231-6136, richard.mattern@ndsu.nodak.edu


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