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September 23, 2004

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: I recently planted a blue Dooley hydrangea. It produced beautiful blue flowers for me several weeks ago, and now they are starting to turn green, mauve and some brown. Does this mean they are almost done flowering? When should I cut back the blooms and how far? Should I expect more flowers this year? Also, it seems the flower heads are too heavy for the stems and they're droopy. We've been getting a decent amount of rain lately, so I haven't been watering the plant as much as I did in the first couple of weeks after transplanting, when it was really hot and sunny. I have it in a corner in front of my townhouse, so it gets morning shade and some direct afternoon sun. Do I need to water it more to prevent the droop? Should I stake it up? Does it need fertilizer? If so, what kind? Incidentally, the cutting I took from my sister-in-law's hydrangea last year is blooming, but it blooms pink at my house and darker pink/purple at hers. Could my blue hydrangea be changing colors due to soil acidity changes even after the blooms are mature? (e-mail reference)

A: Cut them back and you should get another bloom out of them. You may have to put a peony hoop around the drooping blooms. Sometimes there is too high a nutrient level in the soil from lawn fertilization that the stems are not strong enough to hold themselves up. I have taken cloth straps and tied them up at times when the peony hoop was too small. The difference in color of the flowers is due to the difference in the soil pH - acidity/alkalinity.

 

Q: I very much want to dry and preserve a few cattails in a vase. I remember as a child my mother did something with bleach, but I do not remember. Is there a way to dry and preserve them? (e-mail reference)

A: A clear lacquer, polyurethane or clear varnish spray is used. This method also works for other botanicals that tend to fluff when dried such as Golden Rod and Pussy Willow. If you would like an inexpensive method of lacquering, simply use an inexpensive hairspray from your cabinet or purchase it from local discount stores. I do not have any information about the bleach method your mother used.

 

Q: Can you tell me where I can get seeds for snow on the mountain? I looked through a seed catalog, but what they are showing as snow on the mountain doesn't look the same as on your Web site. (e-mail reference)

A: I don't know, but perhaps some readers do, so keep your eye on the Web site.

 

Q: It appears that I have killed my lilac bush. I am a new home owner and not experienced on how to prune shrubs and other flowering plants. I mistakenly pruned the lilac bush at the same time I was told to prune my roses. I am very sad because my bush, which was growing well until I pruned it this spring, looks dead. (e-mail reference)

A: You did not kill it, but it will not flower for this season.

 

Q: I had several trees removed and the stumps grinded down. I also spread top soil over the entire lawn and re-seeded. The lawn looks great with the exception of the areas where trees were removed. There is a light yellow circle at each spot. The circle is slightly larger than the tree. (e-mail reference)

A: The yellow circle is an indication of nitrogen tie-up from the stump sawdust and root grinding that took place. It can easily be corrected by applying a high nitrogen fertilizer. You might want to apply it to the entire lawn to get everything a nice even green color. As the sawdust ages, the problem will disappear.

 

Q: I purchased a tomato on the vine (a clump of two to five tomatoes still attached to the vine) at the grocery store. I left them on the kitchen counter, not in the refrigerator. They lasted for about two weeks. I ate all of them except one. When I cut it open to use it, the seeds were sprouting green leaves. I have never heard of this before. Usually tomatoes rot before I can use them. What caused the seeds to sprout inside a ripe tomato? (e-mail reference)

A: The chemistry in the fruit changes as it continues to ripen. It got to a pH level where the seed was able to germinate.

 

Q: We have a 5-in-1 apple tree. It is three years old and about a foot tall. It had quite a few blossoms on it this spring and formed apples the size of marbles. Now they have all fallen off. What is the problem? (Wessington Springs, S.D.)

A: If the dropped apples are sound and there is no evidence of insect or disease activity, then the drop was likely normal. The tree simply was not ready for apple production. It may also have been caused by wide fluctuations in temperatures or availability of water.

 

Q: Last year I purchased a nikko blue hydrangea that has not turned blue. This year it is a light pink. I heard Miracid will change the PH level and help turn it blue. Is this true? I also heard aluminum and copper is good, but nobody has any. (e-mail reference)

A: You need to find aluminum sulfate somewhere. It will drop the pH to below four, which is where it needs to be to get your hydrangea to turn blue. Try straight sulfur and work it into the soil if you can’t find any aluminum sulfate.

 

Q: Can I move a rose bush at this time of year? If not, when is the best time? (LaMoure, N.D.)

A: A rose, or any plant, can be moved whenever needed, but the best time is in the spring followed by early fall.

 

Q: I read an article recommending Lindane as a control for the birch borer, but I have been told it has been taken off the market. Do you have an alternative chemical spray? (e-mail reference)

A: A long-residual insecticide (endosulfan or permethrin) can be applied to infested areas. Apply the first treatment in late May, with additional treatments in mid-June and again in late June. Apply only to trees showing noticeable top thinning accompanied by visible insect galleries. Trees that have already been killed back should be removed rather than treated. Thorough spray coverage is essential for control. Imidacloprid, a soil applied product, can be applied once a year for season long control. Try to keep the tree growing vigorously with regular watering when rainfall is lacking and spring fertilization. Lindane is off the market due to its relatively high mammalian toxicity. It has long been implicated in cancer and environmental degradation.

 

Q: What stock borer would get into squash vines about two to three inches above the soil line and cause the plant to die? When and what should be used for treatment? (e-mail reference)

A: This sounds like the squash vine borer. There are a couple of ways to combat this pest. Place collars around the vine stem and then slit the stem where the borer has entered. Remove the offending larvae and destroy. Bury the stem in some fresh soil to encourage new root development (it may work!). There are pheromone traps available, but I have no experience with their effectiveness. Sevin is a registered insecticide for control.

 

Q: Our basswood was planted last August and has done well until now. The leaves are yellow and falling off. We have clay soil and did have a very rainy period. (e-mail reference)

A: If you haven't planted it too deep, and if you can allow the soil to dry without any supplemental irrigation, it may recover. You might want to contact the nursery where you purchased it to see if they have any advice. It sounds like it was suffering from too much water and not enough air in the rootzone during the rainy period.

 

Q: We live in a townhouse. Our back patio is concrete with a three foot span of soil around it for gardening. One or two years ago the caretakers planted a lilac bush. They just moved out and told everyone to take whatever plants we wanted. I couldn't put in my usual vegetable garden this year, so I have nothing in my garden. I would like to dig up the bush, but can’t wait until next spring because new tenants are moving in. How far down do I have to dig? Can I separate the new shoots and put those around my fence line? Do I need to fertilize right away? (e-mail reference.)

A: Dig up as big a rootball as you can handle and plant it at the same depth. Water it in well, but do not fertilize. Do not use chemicals, especially those that are intended for weed control.

 

Q: I have a bougainvillea that is flowering nicely, but the lower stems are losing leaves and tend to be scrawny and woody. I see new shoots at the top of these stems, which are blooming well. The plant is in full sun, potted in the original pot and gets watered about every third day (dependent on how dry the soil is). I use a bloom feed once a week as recommended by the nursery. (e-mail reference)

A: You may have scale insects on the stems. Look closely for small lumps (may be the color of bark) on the stems. If present, re-contact you local nursery for control chemicals.

 

Q: I have a question about pussy willows. My bushes have red spots on the leaves. What can be done to get rid of the spots? (e-mail reference)

A: Most likely the plants have a rust fungus. Try a Bordeaux mixture. It will keep the fungus from spreading but will not cure what is already infected. The material is available at most garden centers.

 

Q: I planted an Aspen this year. Some of the leaves are turning black and shriveling. Others just have a few black areas. Should I spray the tree with anything? (e-mail reference)

A: It sounds like the tree has come with its own built-in disease problems! I would get a refund and start over because it isn't going to get better.

Do you have a gardening or houseplant question? Write to Hortiscope, Box 5051, NDSU Extension Service, Fargo, ND 58105 or e-mail to Ron Smith at ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu. Note to e-mail correspondents: please identify your location (city and state) for most accurate recommendations.

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Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor:
Rich Mattern, (701) 231-6136, richard.mattern@ndsu.nodak.edu


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