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November 5, 2004

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: Over the last three to four weeks, the leaves on my plum tree have started to turn yellow with some faint green color remaining. Normally they are a very deep, dark green and have red veins. The leaves are still attached to the branches, but are wilting at the stem. I don’t see anything abnormal on the trunk or branches, such as cankers or other damage. It is planted in a fairly shady location (direct sunlight varies, but probably about three to four hours a day) and is surrounded by large trees and a lilac hedge. Also, it is planted about 3 feet from the stump of a flowering crab tree. It is mulched with wood chips. Could it be lacking iron after all the recent rains or possibly from the decomposition of the crab tree? I have started giving it some Miracle-Gro every few days. Does it need chelated iron? (e-mail reference)

A: The tree is in bad shape. Applying Miracle-Gro or chelated iron will not cure what the problem appears to be, verticillium wilt. Cut into one of the branches and look for streaking just under the bark. If there is no streaking, then the problem is armillaria root rot. I don’t know where you live, but it is a problem in many areas of the country because of the heavy rains this season. In judging the environment the tree is planted in, it appears that there is some shade, which will not help the tree. All I can suggest is to back off on the watering and fertilizer and allow things to dry to determine if the tree will recover next year.

 

Q: We have three willows, two Wisconsin and one niobe golden. They are planted together in a flood plain. They have solid rock ledges about a foot and a half below the soil, which is extremely loamy clay and always wet. The roots have spread laterally a long way since they were planted. Two of the willows are fine, but one Wisconsin has yellowing leaves. The trunk seems to bulge out a foot above ground and the bark is lifting out and off for about another foot. The trunk tapers to slender below the loose bark. The bark peels off easily, is spongy and separating. The leaves of the other willow trees are bluish-green. The bad one has leaves that are olive green and distinctly yellow, but plentiful. A few smaller branches are pure green, with no yellow leaves. The leaves have been yellowish since late spring. (e-mail reference)

A: The use of any willow species should be tempered with the knowledge of the serious problems that exist in the form of diseases, insects, nematodes and aggressive root systems. Some of the more common diseases are bacterial twig blight, crown gall, leaf blight, black canker, cytospora canker, anthracnose, gray scab, leaf spots, and rust and tar spots. Insects that can cause damage include aphids, imported willow leaf beetle, pine cone gall, basket willow gall, willow lace bug, willow shoot saw fly, willow scurfy scale and nematodes. Like poplars, willows can damage driveways and sidewalks and they continuously litter by dropping branches and leaves. In spite of this litany of shortcomings, people still like to plant them. Willows, along with poplars, are considered a short-lived tree species because of all the problems. As to what could be wrong with your tree, I’m guessing a canker at the base of the trunk, or a root-rot disease, such as armillaria fungus. Contact a certified International Society of Arboriculture arborist to inspect the tree. Only an on-site inspection by a knowledgeable individual can determine if the tree can be saved.

 

Q: My beautiful wine-colored hollyhocks are turning black when they flower and then die. Most of the buds are drying up and dying and the leaves are covered with brown spots and holes. Do you know what the problem is and will it affect other flowers in the bed? (e-mail reference)

A: Without knowing where you live, it is a little difficult to determine what the problem is. Typically, when the weather is rainy and humid, botrytis fungus is the problem. If you have any more flowers coming, you can attempt to spray with a protective fungicide. If they have finished blooming, then I wouldn’t bother; just clean everything up well this fall.

 

Q: I know someone who is having trouble with her petunias. They are planted in black dirt mixed with compost and well-decomposed manure. Every year about the first of July the whole plant turns yellow. She puts liquid iron on them and they seem to recover. Is it possible that they need to be fertilized earlier? I told her that it would be a good idea to send in a soil sample. She plans to do so. Am I missing something? (Hettinger, N.D.)

A: If she is getting a positive response after applying the iron, then there must be a deficiency there for some reason. It could be too wet or cold, too much alkali in the soil, a combination of these, or something entirely different. I suggest applying the iron before the symptoms appear next year. A soil test is also a good idea.

 

Q: Our beautiful flowering crab tree is not looking well. It flowered beautifully this spring, but its leaves turned brown and fell off. The trunk has a split in the bark the entire length of the tree. Can it be saved? (e-mail reference)

A: It doesn’t seem promising. I would suggest removal and replacement. Sorry.

 

Q: We live along the Sheyenne River. This spring we had clay fill brought in and this fall we would like to have some spruce trees transplanted and maybe some pine trees. Do spruce and pine trees do well in clay/sandy loam soil? Also, we have a shelterbelt composed of cottonwood, ash and dogwood trees. We had black fabric put down, but now I hear that isn’t good for the trees. I’m willing to take it out if it is going to harm the trees. We have had problems with the fabric blowing in the wind and rubbing against the trees. Is it wise to buy trees now and plant them or should we wait until spring? (e-mail reference)

A: I haven’t seen where spruce does not do well! They are extremely adaptable to all types of soil and drainage situations. Pines are a little more sensitive to poor drainage. This is an excellent time of year to purchase containerized nursery stock. The sooner the better as far as planting goes. The roots will actively grow while the soil temperature remains above 40 degrees.

 

Q: My weeping willow is at least 40 to 50 feet tall and is 30 years old. Part of the tree hangs over my neighbor’s fence. I agreed to have the limbs that hang over her yard cut. I also want to top the tree so it’s even on each side. Should I have it cut in late fall or early spring? (e-mail reference)

A: Pruning is both an art and a science. While there are preferred times for pruning, one can prune anytime the tools are sharp. If you prune anything that appears diseased, dip the pruner in denatured alcohol and burn it off before making the next cut.

 

Q: I have a cluster of grapes on my desk that appears to have mildew, but I’m not sure. They are covered with a white powdery mold and the fruit is shriveled. Also, if I overfertilized some hydrangeas with manure, what would happen? (Forman, N.D.)

A: The problem is most likely downy mildew. It is very destructive on grapes. Overfertilizing hydrangeas will result in excess vegetative growth and reduced flowering.

 

Q: We have a patch of red rhubarb that has been in the same place for years. The last couple of years the leaves start turning brown at the top and then spreads downward and the stalk gets limp. This starts happening in late June and gets worse from then on. Is there something we can do? (Wimbledon, N.D.)

A: Dig and divide! Throw out any part of the crown that appears diseased and treat the rest with Bordeaux mixture. Apply the treatment in early spring.

 

Q: We would like to move some marigolds. Will the move kill them or just slow them down? (e-mail reference)

A: Marigolds are tough plants so go ahead and move them. Move them at the end of the day, going into the evening. Be sure they are well hydrated before digging and keep them well watered after planting.

 

Q: Do hollyhocks and delphiniums give off a scent? (e-mail reference)

A: They are not known for their scents. If roses, marigolds and lavender are considered scented, then hollyhocks and delphiniums are at the back of the pack.

 

Q: I have two large dogwoods. They are about 15 to 20 feet tall and 6 to 8 inches at the base.

Two months ago I did some landscaping and put dirt around the trees to a depth of about 4 inches. My plans were to let the dirt settle and then dig out dirt from the tree back about 4 or 5 feet to form a border. This would put the soil in the 5-foot ring back to the same depth as before. I did that a few days ago, but now I am noticing that the tree has white worm-looking tentacles coming off the base. They are about a half to three-quarter inch long. When you pinch one, it crumbles like dirt. Did I leave the dirt covering on too long? (e-mail reference)

A: It sounds like you stressed the tree and made it vulnerable to borer attack. What you saw was the borer larvae feeding on the cambial tissue. Dogwoods are very sensitive to having their roots covered. Even digging back as far as you did will not suffice. The roots spread way beyond the canopy. There is little you can do at this point except hope it recovers.

 

Do you have a gardening or houseplant question? Write to Hortiscope, Box 5051, NDSU Extension Service, Fargo, ND 58105 or e-mail to Ron Smith at ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu. Note to e-mail correspondents: please identify your location (city and state) for most accurate recommendations.

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Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor:
Rich Mattern, (701) 231-6136, richard.mattern@ndsu.nodak.edu


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