news
North Dakota State UniversitySearch
NDSU Extension Service
ND Agricultural Experiment Station
NDSU Agriculture CommunicationArchive

December 9, 2004

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: Can you tell me how to start tiger lilies? A neighbor is going to give me some seeds, but I thought they were a bulb. When do you plant them? (e-mail reference)

A: Tigers are the easiest of lilies to grow. In fact, some people consider them to be too easy! Just sow the seeds (not really) she is giving you where you want them and you should have some showing up next year. They are often considered to be a part of wildflower mixes.

 

Q: I have several Christmas cacti. They flower quite well, producing large blooms. On a whim last year, I decided to try cross-pollinating the flowers by using my finger tip to transfer pollen from one bloom to another. Now I have what appear to be ovoid seed pods hanging from the ends of a few segments. Are these seeds? How do I plant them? (e-mail reference)

A: Propagation by seed is an inexpensive, but slow, way to introduce unusual and exotic cacti to your collection. Nurseries, mail order houses and specialized cactus societies usually have cactus seeds available at a relatively low cost. Seed may also be collected from any cactus plant that has flowered by simply removing the ripe pods. Fully mature pods should be cut open and the seeds squashed onto a piece of paper towel where they can dry at normal room temperature. Rapid drying will reduce the chances of rot. If you plan to store the seeds for any length of time, they must be fully air-dried before being placed in storage. Sow the seeds over a pre-dampened peat/perlite mix. Cover or mist daily until they germinate. Because it is so late in the season, I would suggest supplemental lighting to get them to grow. When they get large enough to handle, pot them in an appropriate media mix.

 

Q: I have a spider plant that I got 6 years ago during my first semester at college, so it has sentimental value. My mother was taking care of it while I was moving between apartments. When I got it back, I managed to almost kill it by overwatering. Most of the plant is dead, but there are two leaves attached to a large piece of root that are still quite lively. How can I revive this piece of the plant? Right now I have the root in water with a little fertilizer, but I don’t know if that’s ok or if I should repot it right away. (e-mail reference)

A: I would suggest getting it into a pot with fresh potting soil right away. This way the roots that develop will not go through the shock of going from a water environment to a soil environment. Next time, don’t be so anxious to water!

 

Q: I have about 20 hackberry sprouts growing up between my picket fence and my neighbor’s chain link fence. I spent over a year cutting down trees along the fence line before I put up the new picket fence. Now they are sprouting from the stumps. The problem gets worse because the adjoining backyard that meets my fence line is owned by someone who rents out the house and will not provide any help to control these trees. (e-mail reference)

A: Try using Trimec. It is very potent and translocates to the root system, killing the tree’s vascular system.

 

Q: This is the second year my variegated dogwoods have been diseased. Before leaf-out last spring, I sprayed with a Bordeau mixture. I have also used Daconil. Last year you recommended spraying lime sulfur in the spring. What is the name of the product? (Carrington, N.D.)

A: A plethora of diseases bedevil this species of dogwood, so regular vigilance and care are needed. Lime sulfur (calcium sulfate) is inexpensive and usually readily available. It acts as an excellent, over-all sanitizer. Fungicides may help control leaf spot diseases, but will not work on non-biotic disorders such as air pollution, flooded or compacted soil and dogwood that are planted too deep.

 

Q: I have nearly wild roses ( Rosa floribnunda) that I planted last year. They flowered all of last year and this spring before powdery mildew set in. I got rid of the powdery mildew using a spray, but they have not bloomed since. What can I do? (e-mail reference)

A: Be patient. They will bloom again for you next year. The mildew robbed some of the sunlight energy from reaching the chloroplasts in the leaves. You might also examine the site where they are planted. They need at least six hours of direct sunshine every day during the summer.

 

Q: I have two rose bushes that were planted last summer. This summer, one bloomed nicely while the other did not. What am I doing wrong? They are the same type of rose, only different colors. One nursery said that it has gone wild on me and will need to be removed. The other nursery said that it has become lazy with good care and will not go to the trouble of producing flowers. (Tulare, S.D.)

A: I love it when the nurseries say your rose has “gone wild” or “gotten lazy.” Both are incorrect. What has happened is that the scion wood (budwood) somehow died over the winter and the rootstock that the cultivar was grafted on has sent up new growth. The scion is now dead and no longer dominant. You will notice the difference in the leaves of the two roses. that is used to impart vigor to the scion. Some people call it “wild,” but it is usually the Rosa rugosa rootstock that was promoted in the old days as a living hedge. It turned out to be more than that and was discontinued, limited to being a root understock. Take the plant out and replace it with the desired cultivar. Offer ample protection for both plants this fall.

 

Q: I have a hedge of alpine currants that is always lush and beautiful. This year the leaves turned brown and when I looked at the backside of the leaves with a magnifying glass, I saw many tiny white things. Are these mites? I grow many container gardens, and this year the petunias all turned yellow. I used good potting soil and fertilized regularly. I had a few where the leaves turned almost white. What is this and what can I do about it? Also, many of my zinnias died almost overnight. One day a plant was fine, but the next day it was brown and dead. Is this Aster Yellows or something else? This was certainly the year of diseases and pests. (e-mail reference)

A: Indeed, it will be a non-summer to remember!! I would suggest spraying the hedge with Malathion or Orthene. I don’t believe the currants have mites because I’ve never heard of white mites, but they can’t be doing your hedge much good. Next spring, spray with horticultural oil while they are still dormant. My best guess is that you are overwatering your petunias, especially if the container isn’t free draining. Your zinnias may have white mold fungus, Phytophthora, Verticillium, Pythium or Rhizoctonia. Only a lab can determine for sure. You can try a general purpose fungicide to see if that helps.

 

Q: I am concerned about the spread of cottonwoods in our back yard. Until now I kept the shoots down using Brush Begone, but they have extended into our neighbor’s yard. The neighbor is concerned the cottonwoods may undermine the foundation. Some time ago we had the drains drilled and found roots about 120 feet from the house. I am concerned about the potential damage that might be done outside our property line. (e-mail reference)

A: You seem like a good neighbor, so why not offer to help her by spraying the shoots coming up in her yard? Being vigilant will keep the plants from getting established and the roots from becoming a problem. If there are any large poplars on either property, you might want to consider having them removed by a competent arborist.

 

Q: We are first time homeowners, so please forgive my ignorance. What exactly is a pre-emergent herbicide? Is there a particular brand? Am I better off submitting a soil sample to see what I need? I also had quite a problem this year with wild mustard. I used Ortho Weed-B-Gone to kill it. Can I do the same to kill barnyard grass? Can you tell me what product to purchase? I am currently reading a handout of yours on turfgrass management. A former student of yours gave it to me. (e-mail reference)

A: Pre-emergent herbicides are those that are put down in the early spring before the weeds emerge. The barnyard grass seed that will sprout next spring is what you want to control using a pre-emergent herbicide. I am impressed that a former student of mine held on to a handout and is willing to share it with you! I must have done something right.

 

Q: I am devastated at the thought of losing my mother’s beautiful hibiscus. She recently passed away and I transplanted her plant into my yard. I watered it and gave it some fertilizer, but every leaf is curling and every bud has dropped. The stems just before the buds are black, so I am assuming I have lost all of those buds. Should I cut them off? Is there anything else I should do? (e-mail reference)

A: I think your plant will be ok. Cut everything back to the stubs and keep the soil moist around it, but not soaked. Mulch the crown and with luck, the plant should sprout for you next year.

 

Q: I read about deer eating new growth off an apple tree. I came across a formula that by far outdoes human hair, soaps, is more convenient than urine and far cheaper than pepper spray and Deer Away. The recipe calls for 1 egg, 1 cup of milk, 1 tablespoon of dish soap and 1 tablespoon of cooking oil. Mix these up and add 1 gallon of water. It works great. Spray once a week or after a rain. I have been using it on my fruit trees, vegetables and flowers. The deer have not touched anything I have sprayed. When I tried the other suggestions, the deer would get used to it and get back to eating the plants. I ate the vegetables that were sprayed and have not noticed an effect on the taste. There is nothing in the recipe that will hurt you. I recommend it to anyone who has a deer problem! It’s probably the best tip I have ever received for gardening. (e-mail reference)

A: Thank you for the information! I am going to save it and reference it when I receive deer control complaints.

 

Do you have a gardening or houseplant question? Write to Hortiscope, Box 5051, NDSU Extension Service, Fargo, ND 58105 or e-mail to Ron Smith at ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu. Note to e-mail correspondents: please identify your location (city and state) for most accurate recommendations.

###

Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor:
Rich Mattern, (701) 231-6136, richard.mattern@ndsu.nodak.edu


Columns

BeefTalk

Prairie Fare

Plains Folk

Hortiscope

Market Advisor:

Crop

Livestock

 

North Dakota State University
NDSU Agriculture Communication
NDSU Extension Service
ND Agricultural Experiment Station