Hortiscope

January 20, 2005

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: I have a schefflera that has two big trunks. The trunks don’t have leaves except on top. Is there a way I can get the trunk to sprout more leaves? (e-mail reference)

A: If you are brave enough, you can try a couple of things. Cut the plant back to about 4- to 6-inch stubs and see what grows, or go to my Web site at www.ext.nodak.edu/extpubs/plantsci/landscap/h1257w.htm. There you will find asexual propagation techniques, such as air layering and taking cuttings. Simply cutting it back should force it to produce adventitious buds that will result in a bushy plant.

Q: We live in zone 4 and are considering planting peach trees, which are rated for zones 4-8. I’m also considering planting valiant grapes, which is a South Dakota State University variety suitable for zones 3-8 and blueberries rated for zones 3-8. Will these fruit trees survive and bear fruit if taken care of properly? (Ashley, N.D.)

A: Valiant grapes should be a piece of cake. The blueberries will need 100 percent sphagnum peat moss and winter protection. Planting peach trees is a coin toss. Plant the peach trees where there is protection from spring winds and cold air drainage. Grow them hard not soft. This simply means not over-fertilizing the trees or allowing any turfgrass fertilizer to reach the tree’s roots. Nothing ventured, nothing gained, so go for it! Nothing beats a tree-ripened peach unless it is freshly harvested raspberries!

Q: A colleague has given me an orchid that was going to be discarded because it had stopped blooming. I think it needs repotting because there are root shoots coming out from the top of the moss covering. These root shoots are climbing down the sides of the pot (they look pale green, and are wrinkled at the tips). The research I’ve come across says orchids prefer not to be repotted and like being crowded. This plant isn’t in bloom and one root shoot wraps down the pot about 8 inches, so I’m leaning towards repotting. I’ve no idea what type of orchid it is, but I think it may be a phalaenopsis. Do I need to give it fresh moss when replanting? Do I place the root shoots that are currently outside the pot into the new pot under the soil or do they stay aboveground? I read that it is best to clip the plant halfway back, but there’s a light green nub at the top (tip) of the stem above the dried nodes. Do they ever re-bloom at the exact point of where the last bloom was located?

A: I will admit that I’m not an expert at growing orchids, so the advice I’m about to give you will be from references. I’m going to assume it is a phalaenopsis or “moth orchid.” It likes growing in a low-light windowsill (except in a northern exposure) and enjoys warm household temperatures. To get it to bloom, a drop of 10 degrees between the day and night temperatures is needed. That temperature range is often difficult to attain in a typical household environment. You can pot the plant in a mixture of medium-fine bark, perlite and milled sphagnum moss. Keep the media moist, allowing it to dry slightly between waterings. To prevent bud blast (where the buds set and fall off before opening), keep the humidity high by frequently misting or setting the plant on a tray of pebbles filled with water. If the plant does flower, after the bloom fades and the end of the inflorescence is no longer green, cut it back to just above the second node from the bottom. Cutting it back may encourage a second bloom to develop in a short period of time. You can extend the blooming period of orchids or any flowering plant by keeping it in a cool and low-light intense location. If humidity maintenance is a problem, repot it in a plastic pot rather than a porous clay container. I hope this helps you!

Q: I have a spider plant that is quite large and has many babies. Now my baby spiders are getting babies. I’ve had to hang it in my entryway, which has a cathedral ceiling, just to get it higher. Have you ever heard of this happening? (e-mail reference)

A: Yes, my own! Don’t worry, it just shows the vigor of the mother plant! Don’t be afraid to remove some of the babies and plant them in different pots.

Q: I bought two China dolls about two months ago. They’ve been going down hill since. Both were on top of a console table in the window and I was regularly watering them twice a week. I was splitting a half-gallon milk container between the two. The leaves are quickly falling off. The leaves are yellowing and some have a slight brown coloring at the ends. I moved one plant out of the window and it’s doing better with less light, but it’s still losing leaves. I’ve stuck to the watering schedule. Each plant has lots of new growth at the top, some bright green and some reddish. I don’t know if I’m watering too much or too little or if this is a normal occurrence with this kind of tree. (e-mail reference)

A: You are very likely overwatering them. I suggest repotting the plants in a porous container that will allow free drainage. What you can do is follow a pot-in-a-pot system. Use the decorative container for appearances. Place the free-draining pot within the container on a bed of pebbles or styrofoam peanuts. Insert a piece of 2-inch PVC pipe to reach the bottom of the decorative container. Check about once a month with a yardstick to see if too much water is accumulating to the point that the interior pot is sitting in water. If so, take an aspirator and pump out the excess water. You can then cover the entire surface of both containers with a decorative moss, and simply pull it back to water when needed, but not on a set schedule. China doll plants need to dry down somewhat between waterings. In all probability, your plants will come back and be fine as far as appearance. These fussy plants don’t like drafts, too little light, don’t like to be moved or watered too much. Once you figure out the temperament and can maintain favorable conditions, the plants will be beautiful to behold!

Q: I recently got a jade plant that was in a container that was not really a pot, so I decided to transplant it. Since repotting, it has started to grow sideways on the top. Is that normal? If I place it in sunlight, will it start to grow upward again? (e-mail reference)

A: It sounds normal, if I understand you correctly. Placing the plant in sunlight should be a gradual thing or else the foliage will get sunburned. Start with filtered light and then give the plant some direct sunlight for about an hour or so each day for the first week. Gradually increase the sunlight exposure to what you want. The plant should respond by growing upright.

Q: I have a peace lily that I obtained at my brother’s funeral. I have the lily in a pot that is deep and designed to self-water. It also has a huge drain built into the bottom of it. I repotted it in November. It is in a very low-light area, but it is growing well. My problem is that the leaves are turning brown and crumbly. Even the new leaves are brown. Some turn brown prior to opening. I have lost more than half of this enormous plant. I am devastated as I am a plant lover and have many plants over 30 years old that I grew from clippings. I did not split the plant when repotting and used peat moss. I want to repot it again, but I think it might be root rotted. I know that if the roots are rotted, the plant will die. Should I remove the plant and check the roots if there is a possibility that not all the roots are rotted? Please help, as this is seriously affecting my happiness. If there is no hope, I am going to buy another one and grow it from a baby. (e-mail reference)

A: Examine the root system. If there is rot, you can try cutting it out and repotting the remaining root system. You might be better off getting another plant and starting from scratch, applying everything you now know. If you haven’t done so, check out my publication at
www.ext.nodak.edu/extpubs/plantsci/landscap/h1260w.htm. The publication explains the general care and selection of houseplants and should help to cheer you up!

Q: I see little things flying around that appear to be gnats. Is there a possibility that these are coming from my plants? If so, what type of damage could these flying bugs do and what should I do to control them? (e-mail reference)

A: Those gnats could be adult fruit flies or fungus gnats. The adults do little more than annoy us, but the larva can cause root damage, although the damage is usually minimal. Generally, the dry air from our central heating systems during the winter will kill them, unless the environment around the plants is very moist or humid. If they continue to annoy you, purchase some Insecticidal Soap, which can be purchased at any garden supply store, to knock them down.

Q: My jade plant is very tall and leggy, but healthy. It is growing up and not outward as I would like. What do I need to do? I read some other questions from owners and you said to pinch it, but I don’t understand what you mean by that. (e-mail reference)

A: On every woody plant, there is a growing point or terminal bud. If that is removed (pinched off with your thumbnail or clippers), the buds will break dormancy and begin growing, resulting in a bushier plant. You can accomplish the same thing by pruning back the plant to a lateral branch or just above a leaf node. The result should be a densely branched, bushy tree.

Q: A few days ago, my family and I started noticing a somewhat fishy smell in the house, but we had not cooked any fish! We discovered the smell is coming from my healthy schefflera plant. I recall this also happened a couple of years ago. Any thoughts on this? What can I do other than throw the plant away? (e-mail reference)

A: Don’t throw the plant away! Repot it with fresh potting soil. The original soil in the container was probably enriched with fish oil or renderings as a source of fertilizer. Look for Schultz’s or Miracle-Gro material. I’ve had good luck with both.

Q: I have three Christmas cacti that are over 25 years old. While I lived in New York, I put them out on the porch. I brought them inside at the end of September, before the heat was turned on. I withheld watering from Aug. 1 to Sept. 1. My plants had beautiful blooms from December through April. When I moved to Florida, I was concerned they would not survive the move. I put them on the patio under a cover. They were in light, but not direct sun. I again withheld water, but this time from September through Oct. 1. In the third week of December, they started to bloom and were covered with flowers through May 1. I think withholding water and the cool nights are responsible for the lovely flowers. I water once a week, but don’t give them a lot. Hope this will help others who have problems. I enjoy your column and find helpful information in it. (e-mail reference)

A: Thanks and congratulations on finding the secret that works for you to get the cactus to bloom when you want them to! I know many readers will appreciate knowing this information!

Do you have a gardening or houseplant question? Write to Hortiscope, Box 5051, NDSU Extension Service, Fargo, ND 58105 or e-mail to Ron Smith at ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu. Note to e-mail correspondents: please identify your location (city and state) for most accurate recommendations.

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Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor: Rich Mattern, (701) 231-6136, richard.mattern@ndsu.nodak.edu

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