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January
27, 2005
Hortiscope
Ronald C.
Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service
Q: I read your garden
tips article every week and really like it, but I was a little confused
about one of your answers. Someone had removed several cottonwood trees
that were next to electrical boxes. The tree service would not grind the
stumps. In your answer, along with using Sucker Stopper and Salt Peter,
you advised renting a stump grinder. I must have missed something. I can’t
think of anything more dangerous than a stump grinder in the hands of
an amateur, especially around electrical wires. (Fargo, N.D.)
A: You are right,
but I believe the question referred to electrical boxes on poles, not
in the ground. I would hope the individual would have the common sense
to realize that it would be tempting death if the electrical boxes were
in the ground. Thanks for being a faithful reader of the column!
Q: I have a Norfolk
Island pine tree that I got for Christmas last year. It was in a small
pot and about 5 inches tall. It grew great all year, so I put it in a
larger pot a few weeks ago. The tree has three trunks. I didn’t
separate them in the new pot, but they seem to be doing well so far. Should
I have separated the trunks? Do they always lose their lower branch set
as a new one opens on top? This one hasn’t, but those I’ve
had before did. They look like a top-heavy palm tree. I would like it
to stay green all the way down. Is there a secret to it? (e-mail reference)
A: The secret is
humidity, something that most American homes lack, especially during
the winter months. It will help if you mist the plant regularly during
the stressful, desertlike interior air we have in the home during winter.
If you can, add a humidifier to the room where the trees are planted.
A humidifier will keep the plants from loosing their lower branches
or foliage. I would have separated the trunks, giving each a new container
and fresh soil. Keeping the trunks as one will cause the roots to graft
together eventually. You may see stunted growth and unavoidable damage
in future repottings and possible separations.
Q: I have Bermuda
grass in some areas of my lawn. Some of the grass is starting to turn
white. I used many fertilizers, such as npk, iron sequestrene, a cocktail
of micronutrients and zinc, but didn’t get any results. (e-mail
reference)
A: The white grass
could be somatic mutants occurring in the seedlings, which should die
out since they lack the ability to produce chlorophyll. The Bermuda
plants surrounding it will fill the resulting small gap quickly. Many
times a yellowing of the foliage in isolated spots is due to immature
or underdeveloped roots, compacted or saturated soil or soil temperatures
too low to support normal growth. In many cases, these maladies are
temporary and the plants outgrow the discoloration. Overfertilization
will not correct the problem, so save your time and money, especially
if there is no positive reaction to an application of iron-based material.
Q: We have three large
hydrangea bushes with many greenish blooms. I did not know how or what
to do with them before winter came. They look the same, except the blooms
are now beige/brownish. They have large leaves and look almost out of
control. When should they be pruned and how far back do I cut them? I
hope it’s not too late to do anything. Can anything be added to
the soil to get the blooms to come out pink or blue? (e-mail reference)
A: I would suggest
cutting them back hard to 6- to 9-inch stubs. Cut the bushes back early
this spring, before new growth begins. Adding acidifying fertilizers
will help bring out a blue bloom. There are almost as many hydrangea
species as there are Smiths in the local phone book, so this is a generic
recommendation. It’s analogous to a doctor saying take two aspirin
tonight and, if you don’t feel better in the morning, get back
in touch. If this doesn’t produce a better plant with more attractive
flowers, get back to me and we’ll try to dissect the problem further.
Q: I have a friend
who is clearing my lot. He will take the trees, but leave the stumps.
What is the best way to get rid of the stumps? Should I dig them up or
grind them down? (e-mail reference)
A: If you have ever
dug out a stump, you wouldn’t be asking the question! Grinding
the stumps is by far the easier of the two methods. The machine is easily
maneuvered into place. Grind the stump and adjacent roots to sawdust.
Scoop up the sawdust, let it compost and then use it as mulch or burn
it. Digging out tree stumps, even small ones, always seem to have a
“surprise” root waiting for me to find before I can get
it out. Digging is the way to go if you want a good workout, but be
sure you are in good shape and on good terms with a local chiropractor!
Q: I have a question
about digging or grinding stumps. My builder says that if I grind the
stump down, the rest will rot over time and leave soft spots in my yard.
He says if they are big enough, the ground will sink. He says if I dig
up the stumps using a backhoe, I can fill in the area with dirt and prevent
any soft spots. (e-mail reference)
A: If the stumps
are ground down, the sawdust removed, the hole filled with suitable
soil and packed down in a suitable manner, you will not have a problem.
It is done thousands of times a day around the country. The backhoe
can remove the stumps, too, and the same operation carried out. Neither
action will get all of the roots out. When the roots eventually do rot,
the decay provides nutrients for the living plant material and shouldn’t
leave any depressions or soft spots of any consequence. If there are
roots left in the soil the size of a Volkswagen, it could cause a problem
or two, but normally not. The decision is yours to make. I hold an International
Arborist Association (ISA) certification and he is a builder. I don’t
give advice on building homes, just plant material. You really have
nothing to lose with either plan, if done properly and completely.
Q: I have an aloe
vera plant that looks strange. The plant looked normal until a few days
ago, when this long thing shot up the middle of the plant. The mystery
shoot now towers about a foot above the rest of the plant. Is it getting
ready to bloom? Will it take over my house? (Pukwana, S.D.)
A: It is the flowering
stalk. The aloe has accumulated enough energy to push itself into a
reproductive or blooming cycle. It will not take over your house, so
sit back and enjoy observing the plant attempting to perpetuate the
species.
Q: I love growing
flowers indoors and out, but I have a problem. The problem is geraniums.
I can’t seem to grow them indoors or out. (Alcester, S.D.)
A: I don’t
know exactly what to tell you, except the basics. Geraniums need full
sun in well-drained soil. Use healthy plant stock and use a starter
fertilizer at planting and once a month thereafter.
Q: I have an ash tree
that has a large split in the middle. The split is an inch wide and goes
from ground level to 7 feet up. The split appears to go to the core of
the tree. I think the split occurred during a windstorm back in November
or December. I have been told to put a band around the tree, drill holes
and bolt the tree together or cut it down. I hate to lose the tree because
it is a major shade tree for our patio. My next question is about two
ash trees on the other side of my home. They produce large amounts of
seeds, but very little foliage. One is a large mature tree. The other
is a runt that is 20 feet high with an 8-inch diameter trunk. They all
were planted at the same time. There are adjacent ash trees that are very
healthy. Do they have a disease or are they slowly dying? (Sykeston, N.D.)
A: If the ash with
the split is important to you, then bolt it together sometime this spring,
March or April. In the meantime, you might want to wrap the tree with
something to cut down on desiccation. The other ash trees can be removed
or allowed to go out the slow way! The proliferation of seeds is an
indication of decline. The trees probably will die in a year or two.
The runt may have a root problem and probably should be taken out.
Q: A couple of days
ago I was reading your column. Someone wrote in to ask about a killer
grape. You said it probably was a beta grape. Does it have another name?
Will it grow in our area? Do you know where I can get it? (Park River,
N.D.)
A: A beta grape
is still a beta grape by any other name. I don’t know of another
name for it, but a better choice is the valiant grape. Its growth is
more moderate and produces better fruit. Valiant grape will grow in
Park River!
Q: I’m looking
for suggestions on the type of hedge I should plant. The hedge should
grow to 3 or 4 1/2 feet tall because I want to separate my road from the
front lawn. I prefer something drought-hardy and that will live a long
time. I’d like it to be low-maintenance (little or no pruning),
have attractive seasonal colors, fragrant blossoms and berries for the
birds in fall and winter. I have clay soil. (Ludlow, S.D.)
A: I doubt there
is a single shrub that will meet all of your needs. The plant species
that may come closest are the honeysuckles, such as Clavey’s dwarf
and Arnold red.
Do you have a gardening
or houseplant question? Write to Hortiscope, Box 5051, NDSU Extension
Service, Fargo, ND 58105 or e-mail to Ron Smith at ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu.
Note to e-mail correspondents: please identify your location (city and
state) for most accurate recommendations.
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Source: Ron
Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor: Rich Mattern, (701) 231-6136, richard.mattern@ndsu.nodak.edu
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